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Lifts, Suspension and Handling - what's it all about ?

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  • Lifts, Suspension and Handling - what's it all about ?



    I'm a thick, no-nothing ex-squaddie/electronics/computer type now playing in the business consultancy field so I know ABSOLUTELY damn all about mechanical stuff .......

    I'm toying with lifting my wife's Surf (Must be hers cos it's a 3rd gen !) but I'm struggling to get my head round some of the detail and the searches I've done don't always give chapter and verse so the question is:

    Where can I find a definitive idiots guide to lifts, both suspension and body, which explains the various options - one thing that I don't get is ARB's (Anti roll bars I think ?) What's the advantage in removing it/them and what's the cost ?

    My suspicion is that removing them will improve articulation but if that's the case will that mean that handling will suffer as a result ?

    Basically, I'd like bigger rubber and a wider track BUT I don't want to compromise handling ........

    Any suggestions guys ?

    Life is too important to take seriously !

  • #2
    Originally posted by Predictable Bob


    I'm a thick, no-nothing ex-squaddie/electronics/computer type now playing in the business consultancy field so I know ABSOLUTELY damn all about mechanical stuff .......

    I'm toying with lifting my wife's Surf (Must be hers cos it's a 3rd gen !) but I'm struggling to get my head round some of the detail and the searches I've done don't always give chapter and verse so the question is:

    Where can I find a definitive idiots guide to lifts, both suspension and body, which explains the various options - one thing that I don't get is ARB's (Anti roll bars I think ?) What's the advantage in removing it/them and what's the cost ?

    My suspicion is that removing them will improve articulation but if that's the case will that mean that handling will suffer as a result ?

    Basically, I'd like bigger rubber and a wider track BUT I don't want to compromise handling ........

    Any suggestions guys ?


    You're best going for a 2" bodylift with uprated/stiffer shocks.
    Leave the ARBs on unless you're going to be doing extreme off-roading. (I still have mine fitted, and I think everyone else did on the RTTHs week-end and had no problems)
    The handling will be just good as standard maybe better with the new shocks, and the lift will enable bigger rubber.

    Comment


    • #3


      Cheers Vince !

      What I didn't mention is that according to the comparisons I made last week my springs are a little saggy too so that's the starting point I think - and Jackie and I have opposing views on the ride ...... when she drives it's set to normal and when I drive it's hard so we'd like to keep that if we can !

      Life is too important to take seriously !

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Predictable Bob


        Cheers Vince !

        What I didn't mention is that according to the comparisons I made last week my springs are a little saggy too so that's the starting point I think - and Jackie and I have opposing views on the ride ...... when she drives it's set to normal and when I drive it's hard so we'd like to keep that if we can !



        So then it's got to be..........

        New springs.
        New standard shocks. (to keep the hard and soft settings)
        2" bodylift.
        Maybe chunkier rubber.

        Bigger grin!

        Comment


        • #5
          Keith (S2 Wolf) is getting some Heavy duty standard length springs on the back of his on Monday, as he didn't want to much lift but more carrying abilitiy. We'll see how the truck works afterwards.

          A Procomp 2" suspension lift works great on 3rd gens if you want some lift and nearly stock handling.

          Removing the ARB's is to gain better axle flex off road, at the expense of a little body roll on corners.

          Just a body lift dosn't allow for the extra height and therefore higher center of gravity which leads to more body roll on corners, the springs and shocks of a lift kit have this effect calculated in to their ratings, so a 2" suspension lifted truck with no ARB's will be less wallowy than a 2" body lifted truck with no ARB's.

          No matter what people say, ANY lift will effect handling and drivablility, up to 2" is usually barely noticable, and often feel nicer purely because as you are replacing worn springs and shocks with new ones, over 2" is more a compromise between how big you want go vs how much drivability you can live with.

          4" lift and 33's is as big as I'd recommend for anyone who uses the truck daily.
          4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

          Comment


          • #6


            It's beginning to look like a plan ......

            Now a few more questions:

            Would I be right in saying a 2" suspension lift won't allow 33's but a 2" body will or will I need both ?

            What's the largest tyres I can fit with a 2" suspension lift and 30mm spacers ?

            Do any of the guys do a 2" body lift kit for the 3rd Gen ?

            Will the shocks definitely need replacing (and what sort of damage will the factory adjustables be !)

            I've got a strange idea that I'm about to start going down the road to obsession and depravity - I hope I can take Jackie with me or there's likely to be a ruck soon !

            BTW - does anybody know where I can find a suitcase full of used fivers to pay for this ?

            Life is too important to take seriously !

            Comment


            • #7
              1/ 4" will clear 33's (just, wheel offset is important) on 2nd gens, never tried it on a 3rd, can't be far out.

              2/ see what metric sizes you can find that are around 32". Spacers won't allways help, they help clear the wishbones and chassis, but also bring the tyre nearer to the bulkhead and bumper.

              3/ Body lift blocks same as 2nd gen, may be different number, different mods needed for the steering column though, If Jotto's not up it yet I can make them.

              4/ not sure of price for Toyota ones, probably dear, but they won't be long enough to fully appreciate the +2" rear coils. If you want adjustablity on a suspension lift then RS9000 Ranchos, compressor and in cab adjuster is the way to go, but then its getting spendy! Cheaper option is the rancho shocks but with manual adjusters on each shock, but you'll have to crawl under the truck to adjust them.

              Originally posted by Predictable Bob


              It's beginning to look like a plan ......

              Now a few more questions:

              Would I be right in saying a 2" suspension lift won't allow 33's but a 2" body will or will I need both ?

              What's the largest tyres I can fit with a 2" suspension lift and 30mm spacers ?

              Do any of the guys do a 2" body lift kit for the 3rd Gen ?

              Will the shocks definitely need replacing (and what sort of damage will the factory adjustables be !)

              I've got a strange idea that I'm about to start going down the road to obsession and depravity - I hope I can take Jackie with me or there's likely to be a ruck soon !

              BTW - does anybody know where I can find a suitcase full of used fivers to pay for this ?

              4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

              Comment


              • #8


                Vince, Tony - consider yourselves elevated to the status of hero !

                Tony, How are things looking for sorting out those bits from my MOT and a big service around beginning of July ?

                Cheers again !

                Life is too important to take seriously !

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by TonyN
                  4/ not sure of price for Toyota ones, probably dear, but they won't be long enough to fully appreciate the +2" rear coils. If you want adjustablity on a suspension lift then RS9000 Ranchos, compressor and in cab adjuster is the way to go, but then its getting spendy! Cheaper option is the rancho shocks but with manual adjusters on each shock, but you'll have to crawl under the truck to adjust them.
                  mines all in but the rear adjusters need fixing and fronts i havent plumbed in yet cos the bolts are siezed to fit them. still at the least the in cab kit only cost me 99p brand new
                  Tim
                  Break It,Fix It,Repeat,Break It,Fix It,Repeat

                  Comment

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