Spot Lights

[Bludger]

Hi all,

I know this has been covered in numerous threads, and I have read them all, but I wanted to just get something straight in my head before I start hacking at wires.

I've got 2 spotlights with Angel Eye LED's in them. I want the LED's to come on automatically when I switch on the side lights. So I am assuming I need to tag them to the side light cable.

I then want the Spotlights to only come on when I flick the switch. I have included a wiring diagram which I think is correct, but most of the other threads say to tag the spotlights onto the Main Beam cable, but surely this would mean they would only come on if High Beam is on?

Please feel free to make changes to the below diagram if it is incorrect.

Thanks
Dave

[Antshiel]

If you want your spot lights to come on only with your main beam, you need to splice into the main beam live. From there you can have them switched so you can have your main beam on but spots off. If you want to turn the spots on at any time without the main beam on then the wiring diagram you have drawn up is correct for that use but pretty pointless. The idea of spots is more light, this is also what the main beam is for so coupling the two is common sense. More light but not too bright is why you would have them remote switched

[MattF]

Your switch is only connected to itself. Just put the switch inline in the feed from the mainbeam to the relay coil for switching the spots.

[Antshiel]

Your switch is only connected to itself. Just put the switch inline in the feed from the mainbeam to the relay coil for switching the spots.

He only wants them to run on a switch, independent from vehicle lights.

[MattF]

He only wants them to run on a switch, independent from vehicle lights.

Sorry. Misread that bit. Put the switch in the feed from the battery to the relay coil, then.

[Apache]

The diagram you've posted is OK in respect of the LEDs, however, as posted the spots will only come on with main beam.

Your switch doesn't appear to do anything.

If you want to be able to switch the spots independently, you'll need a 'trigger' feed to the relay from the switch.

In the updated diagram I've attached, you still have the option of the spots coming on with full beam with the added switch in position 2, but you can also disable them (position 1) and switch them on independently (position 3).

The positive feed for the new switch can be any 'live when ignition on' feed.

Hope this helps.

[Bludger]

If you want your spot lights to come on only with your main beam, you need to splice into the main beam live. From there you can have them switched so you can have your main beam on but spots off. If you want to turn the spots on at any time without the main beam on then the wiring diagram you have drawn up is correct for that use but pretty pointless. The idea of spots is more light, this is also what the main beam is for so coupling the two is common sense. More light but not too bright is why you would have them remote switched

Let me get this right. If they are spliced to the Main Beam then the spots will come on when you switch on Main Beam. You would then use the additional switch to turn the spots off?

I had considered that, but thought it would use too much juice if everytime you flash someone to let them in etc. you are switching Main Beam and the spotlights on.

I thought it'd be better to have the spots switched off all the time, even when you hit High Beam, but have a seperate switch to turn them on if you want more light still.

I can see the benefit of the first method, because my method would require me to dip High Beam and also switch off the spots when a car came the other direction, whereas the more common method only needs to switch off the Main Beam. Would you need a bigger fuse on the Main Beam because its drawing more current?

But I only intend to use the spots if I am off road, so thought my method would be more practical.

[MattF]

In the updated diagram I've attached, you still have the option of the spots coming on with full beam with the added switch in position 2, but you can also disable them (position 1) and switch them on independently (position 3).

What software did you use for that editing?

[Apache]

What software did you use for that editing?

Oh shut up!

It's lunchtime and I cant be a$$ed firing up the main PC!

[MattF]

Let me get this right. If they are spliced to the Main Beam then the spots will come on when you switch on Main Beam. You would then use the additional switch to turn the spots off?

Or on. Yup, the feed would only be live when the main beam is on.

I had considered that, but thought it would use too much juice if everytime you flash someone to let them in etc. you are switching Main Beam and the spotlights on.

You wouldn't be flashing the spots because the switch would be in the off position. Spots can't be used onroad anyhow. Driving lights can, but not spots. If they were roof mounted, there might be a dim view taken of their use no matter what type they are for road use.

I thought it'd be better to have the spots switched off all the time, even when you hit High Beam, but have a seperate switch to turn them on if you want more light still.

If you want both options, use Apache's schematic, or just have a direct feed straight from the battery to switch the power to the relay.

I can see the benefit of the first method, because my method would require me to dip High Beam and also switch off the spots when a car came the other direction, whereas the more common method only needs to switch off the Main Beam. Would you need a bigger fuse on the Main Beam because its drawing more current?

No. You're only switching the relay via the main beam feed, which will draw negligible extra current.

[MattF]

Oh shut up!

It's lunchtime and I cant be a$$ed firing up the main PC!

Sorry. A geek moment set in with me there.

[Bludger]

No. You're only switching the relay via the main beam feed, which will draw negligible extra current.

OK, I've just been out to the truck and had a look at all the wires etc. and decided that the following Diagram is more accurate.

I have spliced the switch cable to the side light, but this could equally be spliced to the main beam.

Thanks for all your help. I've also found a space in the fuse box which allows a relay to be plugged into it, so I may use that instead of bolting it to the chassis. Does anyone know if I will cause any problems if I remove the entire fuse box so I can get to the underside? Will anything switch off that needs reprogramming when powered up again?

I don't want to unplug something from the fusebox, and find out the car doesn't work anymore when I plug it back in.

[Apache]

OK, I've just been out to the truck and had a look at all the wires etc. and decided that the following Diagram is more accurate.

I have spliced the switch cable to the side light, but this could equally be spliced to the main beam.

Thanks for all your help. I've also found a space in the fuse box which allows a relay to be plugged into it, so I may use that instead of bolting it to the chassis. Does anyone know if I will cause any problems if I remove the entire fuse box so I can get to the underside? Will anything switch off that needs reprogramming when powered up again?

I don't want to unplug something from the fusebox, and find out the car doesn't work anymore when I plug it back in.

There's nowt you can disconnect that will bu**er the truck. You can disconnect your batteries after all.

It's a good plan to fit the new relay in the box. Might do that myself when I do my summer rewire - everything I've done so far has been rushed because it's been getting dark or started to rain!