Any Idea??

[M35A2]

Hello peeps.

Right I'd like to run this by you lovely people to see what comes up.

As I have posted before, my inner front tyres are wearing pretty badly. Now I thought this is probably just a tracking problem, but I noticed something today that might indicate something different!!

I decided to grease all the front steering points and props again, and towards the end decided to swap the front tyres for the rears so I might get a bit more life out of them.

When I jacked the front of the truck up, I noticed that the bottom of the tyres were dragging inwards when the weight was almost off the front end. Now if you jack the back up the tyres go straight up.

Now I know the fronts have a bit of angle on them, but mine were coming in about 1/2 to 3/4's of an inch. This can't be right??? Has anyone else noticed this with their truck???


Now I've got a few ideas. What do you think???


1) The tracking is out
2) Something is wrong on the camber side of things
3) Worn wheel bearings or rubber bushes
4) Torsion bars need to be jacked up or down

Everything seems nice and tight on the bush side of things and there isn't too much play on the wheel bearings (although they do need to be a little tighter)

Any ideas as to what the probable cause is??


Thanks in advance your ideas!!

Andy

[da SLUG man]

the front is independent suspension and the back is on a beam axle.

[M35A2]

the front is independent suspension and the back is on a beam axle.

Yeah I know that sluggy, but is 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch normal drag in when lifting the front up???

[TonyN]

They all do that, its how the suspension flexs, and wishbones pivot around their fixed ends and that how it moves them.

The angle is adjusted by the cams on the lower wishbone, but it must be set with the vehicle at normal ride height, because as you've seen, the hub doesn't travel truely vertical when the wishbones move up and down.

If all the bushes and steering parts are all tight, it must be an alignment issue causing the tyres to scrub (or you're going round corners to quickly!! )

[M35A2]

They all do that, its how the suspension flexs, and wishbones pivot around their fixed ends and that how it moves them.

The angle is adjusted by the cams on the lower wishbone, but it must be set with the vehicle at normal ride height, because as you've seen, the hub doesn't travel truely vertical when the wishbones move up and down.

If all the bushes and steering parts are all tight, it must be an alignment issue causing the tyres to scrub (or you're going round corners to quickly!! )

Cheers Tony.

I was looking at those cams when I was doing it. Most have the hole in the centre bottom (in the middle if you like) but I noticed the o/s rear cam as you are looking towards the back was about 1/4 inch out from the rest.

Will that place in Michaeldever you mentioned check all this for me in a steering check? Also what's the best way to ensure the torsion bars are both equally adjusted? Do you have to unwind them totally and then count how many turns on each side to get them level????

[TonyN]

Will that place in Michaeldever you mentioned check all this for me in a steering check? Also what's the best way to ensure the torsion bars are both equally adjusted? Do you have to unwind them totally and then count how many turns on each side to get them level????

They should do, we had a bit of 'attitude' trouble up there recently with them, but I think it was just one guy being a dick cos Linda took the truck there and basically a 'girl' telling him how to sort the truck out undermined his manhood!

After a quick phone call I told him how to use his own computer and it got sorted OK.

They technically only do the toe in and out for the average alignment, the caster and camber needs to be booked in as it takes longer. But often they sort it anyway (most time anyway! )

The torsion bars wear unevenly, so adjusting the same amount of turns won't always get the truck level, better to adjust them so the truck is level, rather than worry about both being turned the same.

The cams are generally not in the same position, both in and out together adjusts the camber, moving one will affect the caster angle, so you have to adjust both settings a little till its dialed in properly. Where most places go wrong is to set one, then set the other and say its done. but the second setting will move the first out, so you need to adjust both a little at a time to get to a position where both settings are correct. Then set the toe in/out (cos moving the front cams in and out will affect the length the tierod has to be) to get the steering wheel straight and toe set correctly.

Phew! here endeth the lesson!

Surf Tracking 101!

[M35A2]

Thanks for that.

I'm going to leave well alone, and get a pro to do the job.

Mine had the recall work done in Japan just before it came over. I reckon they didn't adjust it properly.

When I took my Defender to Land Rover to get it done after fitting all new drag links and tie rods and track rod ends, the mechanic was a right stickler and spent ages getting it done. She wears so even it's unreal. I just hope I get the same service when I get my truck done....

[Woodman]

About 4 years ago, I had a car aligned by Imperial Tyres in Swindon. They did a great job and used a 4-wheel laser beam tracking system called a Hunter Wheel Aligner, see http://www.pro-align.co.uk/.

Other tyre companies using this equipment are listed on http://www.alignmycar.co.uk/

Has any one used them for Surfs and if so what were the results like?