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Information for fitting new starter motor contacts

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  • Information for fitting new starter motor contacts

    I have finally replaced my starter motor contacts. I did the job yesterday and it took a total of five hours to do the job. Most of this time was spent trying to get the starter out, and cleaning it up and re-fitting the contacts. Re-fitting only takes an hour or so, but I am a perfectionist and like to take my time to make sure the job is done right first time. Here is how to do the job on a 3lt engine.


    Jack up the truck using an axle stand to support the truck and remove the wheel and the rubber dirt shield from the inner wheel arch to enable easier access.

    First, I recommend that you do some extra work to enable the starter to come out easier. Disconnect both live terminals from the batteries. Remove the fuel filter housing via the two bolts and move out of the way. Then using cable ties, tie all the wiring and hoses out of the way to make a hole for the starter to come out. Then un-plug the two electrical connectors that are above the starter. One of these is to the starter itself and needs to be un-plugged to enable starter to come out. Then remove the autobox dipstick, un-bolt the dipstick retaining bolt and pull the top pipe out from lower pipe, first un-clipping the big wiring loom. This makes more room to get your hands in.

    Un-clip the starter motor electrical lead protector cap and using a 17mm ring spanner undo the nut and remove the cable.
    Remove the two starter motor retaining nuts. The top nut is VERY hard to get at. You can only get two fingers on it, and a socket doesn't fit with the wrench attached. I used an 18" power bar with a 17mm short socket to break the tension. There isn't much room between the chassis and inner wing so this can be a bit of an ar*e to do. Once the nut tension has been broken you can use a 17mm ring spanner. Remove this nut first so that the weight of the starter doesn't hinder removal, as you can only use your two fingers to remove totally. Then remove bottom nut. The top is a threaded stud and nut and the bottom is a nut and bolt.

    Slide the starter motor out. I found it easier to slide out from the wheel arch, then slide underneath and position the starter so that it's back end points up towards where the fuel filter is located. I tried removing from underneath, but found it impossible. (The starter is just too big to get out this way, hence why all the preparation in getting hoses etc cable tied out of the way) Then using the wheel to stand on grab the starter from under the bonnet and wriggle it up and out. This is where you will start swearing, as it is a basta*d.

    Once out, clean the starter using a tin of electrical parts cleaner.

    Undo the three bolts on the top cover where the starter contacts are located using an 8mm ring spanner. Carefully remove the cover (you will feel the plunger push the cover up as it has a spring on it) a remove the plunger. The contacts are now exposed. WARNING-There is a ball bearing located in the bottom of the shaft that the plunger sits in. Remove this by tipping upside down and put in a safe place.

    Using the electrical parts cleaner, give the inside a good clean. Tip the starter upside down to remove the excess fluid. You will see the metal shavings from the contacts that are worn out flush away.

    Using a 17mm ring spanner, remove the old contacts and place down in the order that they were removed so that you know how they go back. The two contacts are different. Remember to fit the paper sheet with the hole in where the old one has been removed. One contact has two outer nuts and washers, but the starter pack only has one set, so retain the first nut and washer for re-fitment. Once these have been replaced, clean the spring and ball bearing, replace the ball bearing in the bottom of the shaft and lightly grease the spring and slide over plunger rod and place into position. I gave the inside a light spray using Silicone spray to keep corrosion at bay. Carefully replace the cover making sure the gasket is in correct position and tighten the three bolts (do not over tighten)

    Replacing the starter is a lot easier than removal. Just refit in the reverse order of removal. I used copper grease on the bolts on refitment to ease removal at a latter date.

    I hope this helps anyone that needs to do their starter contacts. Remember, this if for the 3.0lt Engine.

    She now starts like a dream, turns over faster and seems to be quieter.

    Good Luck.

    Andy
    Last edited by M35A2; 8 September 2006, 19:12.

  • #2
    Good stuff...BUT...

    The starter cintacts are adjustable for contact and you need to make sure that they are both sitting evenly....they twist slightly when you tighten the nuts that hold them...this then creates excess arcing and the contacts burn out more quickly. I used feeler gauges to ensure even settings and eye ball to make sure that they were level.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by The Mechanic
      The starter cintacts are adjustable for contact and you need to make sure that they are both sitting evenly....they twist slightly when you tighten the nuts that hold them...this then creates excess arcing and the contacts burn out more quickly. I used feeler gauges to ensure even settings and eye ball to make sure that they were level.



      I see what you are saying, but I wouldn't say they are adjustable as there is no way to adjust them. The bolt goes through the hole and you tighten the bolts and thats it. Of course you check to make sure they are sitting level, but they don't move that much. I'm pretty sure when they were built in the factory you didn't have some guy sitting there with some feeler gauges measuring the gap of every starter built. If you look at the size of the gap in this photo, then a gap of miniscule proportions isn't really going to make that much difference.

      If the worst comes to worst, I will have to buy another starter pack, but I'm sure the job I did will last the time I have the vehicle.
      Last edited by M35A2; 8 September 2006, 21:28.

      Comment


      • #4
        hey andy i think you did a great job putting all that info together.im sure a lot of fellow surfers will find it very handy.could do with posting in the mechanical technical part of the forum so people will find it easier.good job
        www.overfab.uk

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by vatchman
          hey andy i think you did a great job putting all that info together.im sure a lot of fellow surfers will find it very handy.could do with posting in the mechanical technical part of the forum so people will find it easier.good job


          Hey, thanks Mark.

          Took me ages to do, and it added quite a bit of time to the job stopping to take pictures. I thought about putting it in the mechanical section, but most people seem to only use the general section.

          Tony has my permission to move it if he feels it will be better served there.

          Was it clear enough to follow do you think??

          Andy

          Comment


          • #6
            I've put the text into the mechanical section, with a message to check out this thread for the photo's. I don't know how to move this whole thread to the mechanical section with the photo's too.

            Comment


            • #7
              Adjustability...

              The contacts each have an elongated hole for the fixing bolts to pass through. The starter supply bolt has a serated ring which makes it a force fit into the contact. Its a point I raised to make other Surfer's aware of when they follow you excellent description. Certainly the factory don't have people with feeler guages fitting the contacts but they do use a setting tool to locate the contacts evenly and at the same level. You can check with new contacts installed by rotating the contact ring against the contact faces, this action produces a score/polish mark and you can imediately see if the contact is high/low on one side or unevenly located.

              Comment


              • #8
                Who else on here that has done their contacts has applied the method The Mechanic has talked about?

                Comment


                • #9
                  i did mine the same way as you did andy,when i had the 2.4 in the engine bay,never had a prob with it.
                  www.overfab.uk

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by vatchman
                    i did mine the same way as you did andy,when i had the 2.4 in the engine bay,never had a prob with it.


                    Well before I did mine the truck was clicking quite a bit, now it starts like a dream. Job done as far as I'm concerned. Only one of the bolts has a serated ring on it, the other is plain. I can see what the mechanic is talking about, as the contact that was worn out was the one with the serated ring, but this doesn't tie in with a setting tool being used as they should have worn equally unless it's been changed before, but I'm sure there is years of use in these contacts? I've also just looked at the big washer on my old plunger, this has about 5-10mm of movement (tilt) so this should compensate for any slight misalignment as it is still contacting both contacts. Time will tell, but I'm sure it will give years of service. If not, I'll just buy another set. Easy.

                    Who else has done theirs the same way as me??
                    Last edited by M35A2; 10 September 2006, 18:31.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thats right....

                      By following you guide there will be no problems, the starter contact burns out first because it receives the current from the solenoid contact. By 'setting' the contacts evenly you reduce the sparking and arcing. The contacts will eventually burn out because it is generally a poor design, thats why in the Toyota engine manual it tells you to replace the solenoid if it does not power up the starter motor..but we know better. If both contacts make contact at the same time and any tipping movement of the contact plate (centre) can be reduced then the service life will be improved....

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by The Mechanic
                        By following you guide there will be no problems, the starter contact burns out first because it receives the current from the solenoid contact. By 'setting' the contacts evenly you reduce the sparking and arcing. The contacts will eventually burn out because it is generally a poor design, thats why in the Toyota engine manual it tells you to replace the solenoid if it does not power up the starter motor..but we know better. If both contacts make contact at the same time and any tipping movement of the contact plate (centre) can be reduced then the service life will be improved....



                        What would you say the expected life of the contacts to be if the truck is used everyday? That's good info if I need to do it again, but I'm hoping that I don't. At least if I have to do it again it will be a quicker job.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Probably about....

                          60-80,000 miles for the contacts in the solenoid, for the actual starter motor brush gear and the pinion and its' reduction gear...who knows. Some will fail early on others might go on for the entire life of the vehicle. A great deal depends upon the usage rate eg constant stop start all day will create more wear than just the used twice a day syndrome.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            question

                            Thankyou for an excellent post but i have two questions for you. Firstly, where did you buy the 'starter pack' and how much was it, and secondly you mentioned that the reason you replaced the contacts was that the starter was 'clicking'. My starter has just started to 'click' when you turn the key, but not always. Sometimes it will click once or twice and then start and another time it will start straight away. When it 'clicks' that is all it does, it does'nt even try to turn the engine, but when it does start it 'jumps' into life as if nothing was ever wrong, is this an obvious sign of bad contacts or could something else be causing the problem? Paul.
                            Paul

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by M35A2
                              Who else on here that has done their contacts has applied the method The Mechanic has talked about?
                              Me, its no biggy, Its just when you do lots like I do you can just fit it properly and forget about it.........



                              But like anything, you can do it without, just be carefull how you tighten the nuts up and 99% of the time it'll be OK. I just use a sash clamp to hold the block down, and do the nuts up.



                              You can get the repair kits from Toyota, Roughtrax or Milners, and probably other places. Be aware there are 2 sizes of starter motors for the 2.4, (non-efi and efi truck generally.) and then the V6 and 3.0TD motors. I think the early 2.4's are the same as the V6, and the later 2.4 may be as the 3.0, but not 100% sure.
                              4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

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