which shocks

[TonyN]

I've got standard ES3000s They allow up to 4" of lift anyway, if that helps.

Only for road use, with just +2" springs standard shocks are maxed out before the spring when you drop a wheel down a hole, which defeats the point fitting longer springs in the first place.

Unless you just a poser who doesn't use the poor truck offroad like it was built for.......

[BUSHWHACKER]

If you got it, flaunt it!

[TonyN]

If you got it, flaunt it!

yuk, put it away!

[surfenstein]

so do the shocks come in different lengths then?so if i were to fit the l/c springs and wanted to go off road what should i be using.(apart from a tow truck),before i get any wise cracks.

[slim]

so do the shocks come in different lengths then?so if i were to fit the l/c springs and wanted to go off road what should i be using.(apart from a tow truck),before i get any wise cracks.

i aint no expert but i would say if you lifting three inch then you need shocks that have a 3" extra reach..thats how i see it anyway...

[TonyN]

so do the shocks come in different lengths then?so if i were to fit the l/c springs and wanted to go off road what should i be using.(apart from a tow truck),before i get any wise cracks.

If your not buying a complete lift kit then you'll need to specifiy what shock lengths to buy.

Shock 101....

Short shocks will bottom out before the axle has finished articulating down (called droop), which isn't good with open diffs, to long a shock will not compress enough and limit upward movement of the axle (called bump) which also isn't good.

I can order shocks based on your maximum needed extended length and minimum collasped length. The difference between the two measurments is the travel of the shock.

Obviously the aim of building a good offroader is axle articulation, the more axle travel you can get the better for keep all 4 wheels on the floor and keeping traction. longer springs=more movement, more movement=longer shocks.

Once you start needing really long shocks then the upper shock mount will restrict the length of shock you can use and will need locating higher.

Remember the at rest position of the axle to upper shock mount won't always be in the middle of the shock travel, it will depend on how hard or soft the springs are and how well the axle droops.

[surfenstein]

so nowing that im only two wheel drive,would i be right in saying that i would need as much axle articulation as poss,im going to remove front and rear anti roll bars,plus i have already done a body lift of 60mm, im going for the 4" suspension lift you get with the land cruiser springs,i was gonna go for the 9000s rear only,would this be a good set up.tony,

[TonyN]

Yeah, I resisted the 2wd only comment you'll notice!!

9000's are the best shock for wheelin', as they will self extend helping to push the wheel down, were as 3000's are neutral and will just stop where ever they are left.

Body lift won't affect the shocks needed but to get the best out of the LC springs you want to make sure they are giving you all the travel possible. Remember you'll need to mess with the handbrake cables and rear brake hose to get enough slack as well.

Deffo bin the anti roll bars, or fit disconnects if you think it might need them on the road.

Personaly I'd fit 9000's all round, but your truck is lighter at the front now, so 3000's might be OK.

Rememeber you can bin the front drive shafts now, so you can get plenty of lift on the front torsion bars for ground clearance. You'll need to cut the upper bump stop in half to get more down travel.



There is lots of other $hit to bore you with, the stock radius arms are a little short for 4" springs on the rear, the axle will end up more forward than normal, as it droops it'll move the axle even more forward, normally the rear prop hit the fuel tank when the O/S wheel is down a hole.

[slim]

well you've done it now tony i had in my mind wot i wanted and you've gone and chucked a spanner in the works....lol

iam going to have to reevaluate the situation now!!!

[surfenstein]

its not boring tony.to me its very interesting,i was going to ask the question about the brake lines and stuff but you have already answered it for me,im interested in the front axle set up being ifs,can i strip it all down and remove the diff and shafts,but leave the hub intact,if so how do i do that.