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  • If it's not one thing....it's another.....

    Just spent all weekend sourcing and fitting a pair of high power batteries, when I noticed the front nearside wishbone covered in oil. OH no...oil leak..me thinks...but no...My cv boot has split right around and spun grease every where...
    So this weekend I'm replacing cv boots.
    Question is would it be wise to replace both inner and outer, on both sides whilst i'm on? just thinking if one has gone then the other can't be too far away.
    Is there anything else I should check / replace whilst the wheel/hub/axle is removed.
    priced the boots at milners - which seem very reasonable - are they a poorer quality than those from roughtrax - being half the price??
    I intend to take lots of pictures and do a write up - unless some one has already done so...
    Everyone thinks I'm paranoid!!

  • #2
    I replaced my inner and outer CV boots on both sides last August. Unfortunately I forgot the camera. I did all the work on my own, apart from some expert help from my brotherwith cracking the ball joints. The secret is a big bar and a shrp tap in the right place with a BFH. Forget ball breakers - they just don't cut it.
    The only problem I have had with the Milners ones is that the outer ones do not seem to be a snug fit on the wheel side. I originally used the steel bands which were supplied with the kit, but found they had both come off somewhere between Luton and London and were just jangling round. I replaced them with zip ties but twice since they have come off, splattering the grease around the wheel arch. My bruv says it's because I have done them up too tight, squashing the rubber and making it pop out from underneath the ties.
    It's only a hobby!

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    • #3
      Best off doing inner and outer at the same time. I had the
      offside ones replaced last year, Milner's ones, and they
      have been fine.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by kitesurf_phil
        I replaced my inner and outer CV boots on both sides last August. Unfortunately I forgot the camera. I did all the work on my own, apart from some expert help from my brotherwith cracking the ball joints. The secret is a big bar and a shrp tap in the right place with a BFH. Forget ball breakers - they just don't cut it.
        The only problem I have had with the Milners ones is that the outer ones do not seem to be a snug fit on the wheel side. I originally used the steel bands which were supplied with the kit, but found they had both come off somewhere between Luton and London and were just jangling round. I replaced them with zip ties but twice since they have come off, splattering the grease around the wheel arch. My bruv says it's because I have done them up too tight, squashing the rubber and making it pop out from underneath the ties.
        you mean you took off the ball joints???

        you can do it with out touching them.

        just need to jack up the wishbone to the right angle and out she pops.

        it is even poss to do it with out taking the wheel off, but its not clever an it creates a lot of swearing too
        CHEERS JOHN................

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        • #5
          Well I've taken the plunge and ordered the boots (2 pairs to do both sides together)(this plan may change without notice)
          And also thought I'd change the brake pada as well since i'm working in that area - there is still 4-5mm meat left on them but my fluid level light keeps coming on.
          ordered the whole lot from milners including 4 new pad pins for £59 inc vat and delivery. should arrive tomorrow for the weekend. Mrs milner did not know if the grease was included, any ideas what the grease is should i need to buy it seperatley - I'm supposing the same as the propshaft grease being as they do a similar job under similar loads and speeds????
          just been out and soaked every bolt and nut with wd40 to make the job easier - yeah right!!!!
          Everyone thinks I'm paranoid!!

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          • #6
            If I remember correctly, there is a sachet of grease
            supplied with the boots.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by jaky cakes
              Well I've taken the plunge and ordered the boots (2 pairs to do both sides together)(this plan may change without notice)
              And also thought I'd change the brake pada as well since i'm working in that area - there is still 4-5mm meat left on them but my fluid level light keeps coming on.
              ordered the whole lot from milners including 4 new pad pins for £59 inc vat and delivery. should arrive tomorrow for the weekend. Mrs milner did not know if the grease was included, any ideas what the grease is should i need to buy it seperatley - I'm supposing the same as the propshaft grease being as they do a similar job under similar loads and speeds????
              just been out and soaked every bolt and nut with wd40 to make the job easier - yeah right!!!!
              Hiya mate, the grease commonly used in CV joints is molybdenum disulphide and is black in colour, whereas prop-grease is lithium and is gold in colour. They do perform a similar job, but the former is a more specialised grease.ps. there is also copper grease for brake pads (backplates!) and I bet you can't guess what colour that is !! Hope this helps.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Ricksurf
                Hiya mate, the grease commonly used in CV joints is molybdenum disulphide and is black in colour, whereas prop-grease is lithium and is gold in colour. They do perform a similar job, but the former is a more specialised grease.ps. there is also copper grease for brake pads (backplates!) and I bet you can't guess what colour that is !! Hope this helps.
                bugger thats why my brakes are cr@p
                Surf.gone but not forgottendisco now gone aswell

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by john.sally
                  bugger thats why my brakes are cr@p
                  If by cr@p you mean squeaky then copper grease is for you, otherwise it may be something else eg. soft pedal could be wheel cylinders weeping or master cylinder seals leaking. A hard pedal with ineffective brakes is usually a non-working servo or worn pads/shoes.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Ricksurf
                    If by cr@p you mean squeaky then copper grease is for you, otherwise it may be something else eg. soft pedal could be wheel cylinders weeping or master cylinder seals leaking. A hard pedal with ineffective brakes is usually a non-working servo or worn pads/shoes.
                    it past its MOT 3 weeks ago but they feel weak to me, i put milners pads in it last year, rears have plenty of meat on them, pistons and seals seam OK
                    i intend on cleaning and freeing off the calipers just for the sake of it oh and to add to my list of jobs a brake fluid change as well
                    Surf.gone but not forgottendisco now gone aswell

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                    • #11
                      .ps. there is also copper grease for brake pads (backplates!) and I bet you can't guess what colour that is !! Hope this helps.[/QUOTE]

                      assume nothing there was a guy i knew at work who when told copperslip would stop his brakes squealing, went and greased the friction surface!!!!!
                      bad enough without knowing he was half way through a 3year aircraft engineering apprenticeship. he has left now!sacked i think, no sympathy, very few people get to me but he was one of them, tw@t!
                      Diesel, like petrol only better

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