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so the original speakers in the surf dash mounting are 4" coaxials? i ask this cos i really have no idea and need to replace em.... if someone could confirm this i can make steps in getting a new pair, and get away from that annoying buzzin when the bass kicks in.....
Stu
Yeah! thats just what i was getting when i originally managed to get a pair of
4" in the dash, the whole dash viberated when base kicked in,
As long as the tweeter bit doesn't protrude above the surface of the main basket. and the motor unit (magnet) isn't too substantial, it'll fit... If you have a heat gun and oven gloves, it'll make things a little easier.
These were the ones I fitted. Heat the backside of the speaker enclosure gently (not too much), squeeze the speaker in so that the enclosure deforms slightly. When the enclosure cools down, let go of everything. Scre the speaker into the enclosure. Heat the backside up again, and fit the enclosure into the dash... and screw it in. Wait until it cools down (10 mins at most). Strip it all down, plumb your cables, heat shrink and solder them on (not necessarily in that order). Put your dash back together.
slug man - i just cut the right size holes in the door cards and used some metal brackets and self tapping screws that the speakers came with. works really well, i'm quite surprised actually. the tweeters are adjustable and come with a couple of different mounts, but they are angled right towards me as they are so it all sounds good.
i personally wouldnt look to put anything punchy in the dash mounts. I can imagine the sound to be very dead in terms of bass as there is no real enclosure for the air to move in. There would also be a LOT of vibration.
that's why I chose the door cards. the door itself acts as a bass box. the inside of the door has a hole right where I've mounted the woofer, and an indent where I've mounted the tweeter.
bit more tricky for me as I had to think about the window winder too!
edit - for those interested, the speakers in question are these
As long as the tweeter bit doesn't protrude above the surface of the main basket. and the motor unit (magnet) isn't too substantial, it'll fit... If you have a heat gun and oven gloves, it'll make things a little easier.
These were the ones I fitted. Heat the backside of the speaker enclosure gently (not too much), squeeze the speaker in so that the enclosure deforms slightly. When the enclosure cools down, let go of everything. Scre the speaker into the enclosure. Heat the backside up again, and fit the enclosure into the dash... and screw it in. Wait until it cools down (10 mins at most). Strip it all down, plumb your cables, heat shrink and solder them on (not necessarily in that order). Put your dash back together.
slug man - i just cut the right size holes in the door cards and used some metal brackets and self tapping screws that the speakers came with. works really well, i'm quite surprised actually. the tweeters are adjustable and come with a couple of different mounts, but they are angled right towards me as they are so it all sounds good.
i personally wouldnt look to put anything punchy in the dash mounts. I can imagine the sound to be very dead in terms of bass as there is no real enclosure for the air to move in. There would also be a LOT of vibration.
that's why I chose the door cards. the door itself acts as a bass box. the inside of the door has a hole right where I've mounted the woofer, and an indent where I've mounted the tweeter.
bit more tricky for me as I had to think about the window winder too!
edit - for those interested, the speakers in question are these
I'm quite impressed with my original equipment speakers. If you turn it up it is plenty loud enough, and the bass rocks. But I don't have my radio converted to UK freqences, so I just play CD's (original 12 disc CD changer). I only have the volume on low anyway.
Right a pic of the front speaker, like i said it sticks out a bit but dose'nt
interfere with driveing or getting in &out in fact i rest me leg on it, could'nt
be arsed running the wires through the door /body rubber hose so i gonna
run it through some convuleted pipe with connectors on the inside (if you know what i mean!!!!! No real reason for the shape just thought it would be different, Its fixed to the door card with bigheads and stainless dome nuts
Hope the buggers sound ok when i get em wired,
My old back ones were a pretty good sound but the original fronts were shot
All ripped etc.
Right a pic of the front speaker, like i said it sticks out a bit but dose'nt
interfere with driveing or getting in &out in fact i rest me leg on it, could'nt
be arsed running the wires through the door /body rubber hose so i gonna
run it through some convuleted pipe with connectors on the inside (if you know what i mean!!!!! No real reason for the shape just thought it would be different, Its fixed to the door card with bigheads and stainless dome nuts
Hope the buggers sound ok when i get em wired,
My old back ones were a pretty good sound but the original fronts were shot
All ripped etc.
id recommend going through the hoses... it doesn't take too much pushing and pulling honest! not sure how else you'd do it either....
have you cut holes in the door panels too, or are you just using the pod enclosure for bass?
Just the pod enclosure, Did'nt want to butcher the card in case it did'nt work out!! If it was just the speaker wires i prob would have gone through the door
rubber hose but there's some led wireing as well and it looked like there's a lot of wires in that hose already, If the other method i've got in mind works out i'll post a pic, If i catch my foot in it and end up dangleing upside down
i'll have to think again
VW Golfs have some nice rubber hose/grommet things, between the doors and the jamb's... that are perfect for the job, with a little lubricant on all the cables you get get quite a large bunch through the hose, two holes, one in the door and one in the jamb... job done, nice a tidy. S$$$$py shouldn't charge a lot for those..
Just the pod enclosure, Did'nt want to butcher the card in case it did'nt work out!! If it was just the speaker wires i prob would have gone through the door
rubber hose but there's some led wireing as well and it looked like there's a lot of wires in that hose already, If the other method i've got in mind works out i'll post a pic, If i catch my foot in it and end up dangleing upside down
i'll have to think again
i thought i'd have probs going through the hose too but it was easy when I cut a little bit out at each end, so there was room for my new wire. i'd be interested to see how you go on this! let me know how it sounds too....
Cheers Andy! There's some interesting roof console's there, I try'ed to get
some prices from that aus site that makes em but you have to register and it seem'd a lot of messing about, However those pics may give me some ideas,
The CB turned up yesterday from Spans, Nice little Amstrad unit, I've already
been in there seeing what it looks like on the headlining, Got to get an aeriel
now and decide where to put it remembering i have to get the truck in the garage,
Mooter! Just got the front speakers wired and they sound great, better than the rears, As you can see i used this ribbed hose and terminal ends from
vehicle wireing products, Connected to the speaker pods and run to the footwell side panels, dont think they look too bad and i dont catch my feet
in em (not yet anyway) Obvisiously the wireing would be better through the door hoses but i could'nt be arsed taking the lower dash off again, Those grills
came with leds in em that are supposed to flash to the music but they were cr@p so getting a beat sensor to run em, at least i can switch em off if they get on my wick,
Sorry about the size, i must remember to change the camera size back
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