Running gear oil change

[M35A2]

I know I'm supposed to put this in the mech section, but thought I would put it here, incase no one looks at it!!

I'm going to change my front diff, rear diff, transfer, and auto gearbox oils on Thurs/Fri. I've been looking at the threads in the tech section, and am more confused than ever. The front and rear diff will be ok. The transfer box will be ok. But what I need some more info on is the Auto box. I read a thread about using buckets and pick up hoses to drain the torque converter and renew the oil. Has anyone done this on a Surf? The thread was for a Ford/Mazda?? What seals do I require if I take the sump off, apart from the sump seal, what size hoses do I require or the intake and exit from the torque converter, do I need to take the rear prop off to drop the sump, or will it just slide off????

To save on all this hassel, I thought about draining the oil. Filling with fresh oil, running it round the block, draining that oil, then refill with more fresh oil. I could even drain that oil again, and refill a third time. I know it's a bit more expensive and wasteful, but it would be easier than hooking hoses up and buckets filled with oil etc.

Are there any other oil filled bit's I have missed??

I would like to thank you in advance for any tips, comments, or down right abuse that you can give me............ Not so sure about the abuse bit!!

Cheers

[Chillitt]

To save on all this hassel, I thought about draining the oil. Filling with fresh oil, running it round the block, draining that oil, then refill with more fresh oil. I could even drain that oil again, and refill a third time. I know it's a bit more expensive and wasteful, but it would be easier than hooking hoses up and buckets filled with oil etc.

yes do it this way.
you dont need to take the cover off unless you want to mess with gearbox (i wouldnt!) theres a drain plug there, same as changing engine oil
shop around for the fluid, its cheaper by the gallon! and dont buy it from halfrauds cos theyll rob you blind

[Greebo]

and to answer the next most popular question.......


Via the dipstick tube.

[M35A2]

Thanks guys.

There is a motor factors on Milton Park that do all the commercial fluids, you know in the gallon and 5 gallon containers. I will go there and get it.

I've already got a home made tool for filling it via the dipstick tube. A funnel with a bit of hose and taped the two together. Was like watching Blue Peter, but for Surf transmission oil changes.

[BUSHWHACKER]

By the way, you can still put your posts in any section and they will still come up on the front page for all of us to smirk,sorry look at

[M35A2]

By the way, you can still put your posts in any section and they will still come up on the front page for all of us to smirk,sorry look at

Cheers dude.

[The Mighty WAH]

Auto Box Oil Change

I know I'm supposed to put this in the mech section, but thought I would put it here, incase no one looks at it!!

I'm going to change my front diff, rear diff, transfer, and auto gearbox oils on Thurs/Fri. I've been looking at the threads in the tech section, and am more confused than ever. The front and rear diff will be ok. The transfer box will be ok. But what I need some more info on is the Auto box. I read a thread about using buckets and pick up hoses to drain the torque converter and renew the oil. Has anyone done this on a Surf? The thread was for a Ford/Mazda?? What seals do I require if I take the sump off, apart from the sump seal, what size hoses do I require or the intake and exit from the torque converter, do I need to take the rear prop off to drop the sump, or will it just slide off????

To save on all this hassel, I thought about draining the oil. Filling with fresh oil, running it round the block, draining that oil, then refill with more fresh oil. I could even drain that oil again, and refill a third time. I know it's a bit more expensive and wasteful, but it would be easier than hooking hoses up and buckets filled with oil etc.

Are there any other oil filled bit's I have missed??

I would like to thank you in advance for any tips, comments, or down right abuse that you can give me............ Not so sure about the abuse bit!!

Cheers

Your method is very similar to the way i changed my oil, after reading numerous methods.
Don't take the sump off unless you really want to. My 93 2G has the exhaust running directly below the sump, meaning that the exhaust has to be split to remove the sump.
The attachment below is what worked for me. You do not have to run the vehicle around in between flushes. I ended up with completely clear oil after about 3 cycles.

Colin

[The Mighty WAH]

Your method is very similar to the way i changed my oil, after reading numerous methods.
Don't take the sump off unless you really want to. My 93 2G has the exhaust running directly below the sump, meaning that the exhaust has to be split to remove the sump.
The attachment below is what worked for me. You do not have to run the vehicle around in between flushes. I ended up with completely clear oil after about 3 cycles.

Colin

Oops! attachment didn't appear for some reason?
Another try.

[TonyN]

To save on all this hassel, I thought about draining the oil. Filling with fresh oil, running it round the block, draining that oil, then refill with more fresh oil. I could even drain that oil again, and refill a third time. I know it's a bit more expensive and wasteful, but it would be easier than hooking hoses up and buckets filled with oil etc.

:

Cheers

I wouldn't worry about flushing it completely, unlsee you have a problem with the gearbox initially, I'd just drain it and refill with fresh 3 or 4 times over a year, and then just change it regularly after that to keep it good.

[fatfires]

costs!

yes do it this way.
you dont need to take the cover off unless you want to mess with gearbox (i wouldnt!) theres a drain plug there, same as changing engine oil
shop around for the fluid, its cheaper by the gallon! and dont buy it from halfrauds cos theyll rob you blind

chillitt, dont know what you pay, but I bought dextron3 in 1 litre's from the local factor, then found that the local morrisons (safeway) do it for allmost half the price i.e. 99p for 500ml.(texaco brand) is this still expensive? I was quoted £15 per gallon by one factor

[BUSHWHACKER]

I wouldn't worry about flushing it completely, unlsee you have a problem with the gearbox initially, I'd just drain it and refill with fresh 3 or 4 times over a year, and then just change it regularly after that to keep it good.

THREE or FOUR TIMES!!!!
I haven't done mine at all yet!





Just popping down to Fast parts, be back in a tick............um I s'pose I'd better walk then.

[TonyN]

THREE or FOUR TIMES!!!!
I haven't done mine at all yet!


Just popping down to Fast parts, be back in a tick............um I s'pose I'd better walk then.

, thats only if you want to give it a good clean out, changing it annually is more than enough. Most don't get changed in years.

[BUSHWHACKER]

Phew! To be honest it was changed when I bought it about 20 months ago, but I've only done about 4000 miles since, the atf is still red.

[Chillitt]

i think it was around the 6 quid mark for a gallon of some no name dexIII..
but the guy looked half asleep so i paid up and ran....

[Greebo]

chillitt, dont know what you pay, but I bought dextron3 in 1 litre's from the local factor, then found that the local morrisons (safeway) do it for allmost half the price i.e. 99p for 500ml.(texaco brand) is this still expensive? I was quoted £15 per gallon by one factor

difflock do good DIII for £12 for 5 litres plus delivery with 10% discount if you order 25 ltr and you only pay the same postage. so works out quite cheap.

http://www.difflock.com/

go the shop and select oils from the drop down menu.