need axle /diff, got chunks off metal on sump bung magnet, been told it might be lsd breaking up, don't think so.? 95 3.0td auto, had this for about 4yrs, Axle CodeG295.
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rear axle /diff noisy
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rear axle /diff noisy
Hi, 3-4 chunks 3-4 mm, lots of smller bits,and a paste on the magnet. seems to be noisier when worked hard, and pulling away from junctions etc. It feels like it's trying to lock up, giving a graunching noise. Even noisier in reverse, Milners reckon it may be limited slip breaking up, 450 quid, exspensive gamble to get wrong. Milage showing around 120k. Still pulls like a train, don't seem a problem at high speed no more unusual noise/ vibration than normal.
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lsd
hi mate i have a lsd in perfect working order for sale
i took it out of mine 2 weeks ago as i am haveing an ARB AIR LOCKER put in,
mine is complete in the caseing ready to fit,
i was going to keep it for a spare but sounds like you need it more than me
i also have two half shafts as well
its quit possible that it could be your crown teeth starting to break up
i did the teeth on my front diff only a month ago
and paid £200 for another one complete in the caseing
make me a sensible offer and its yours
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diff locker
hi mate,
well i took out the diff and dropped it off to oec,
they then strip the diff down to the caseing,
and rebuild it with the new locker new bearings drill and tap the caseing and tread the pipe trough which will be connected to the ARB COMPRESSOR which i fitted in the engine bay,
they have charged me £125 for building it back up,
i was going to do it myself but when i opened the box and seen so many bits inside i opted for the easy option,that way if there is a fault with it i can always take the car back to them,
as the part that i am doing cant really go wrong
so when i pick it up later in the week its just a case of putting the new one back in and connecting up the pipe,
probrably take me about 3 hours to put back together,then the fun part,testing it out,
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cheers for info
I have been toying with idea of fitting a new diif for a while,
prob a true-trac to replace the worn out factory lsd in my truck
but never fancied taking on setting the backlash etc in diff
as wasnt sure how much a garage would charge to do it
i would prob do as you ahve done, remove the 3rd member or whatever its called
how much work was involved to slide the rear 1/2 shafts out?Landcruiser Colorado
Sub. Forester
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piece of cake,
jack up rear of vehicle,put on axle stands,
take of rear wheels,
clamp off rear brake pipe,the rubber one which goes between the rear body and drops down to the rear axle,
undo both rear brake pipes at the brake cylinder ends,
undo the diff oil drain plug,drain off oil,
then undo the 4 nuts on both the back plates,
give back plates a gentle pull and the shafts will pull out,
you need to pull then out about a 10" inchs,
then undo the propshaft at the diff end and let it hang to the floor,
only split the shaft if you have marked its position as it is balanced and needs to be put back in the same place that it was taken off,
then undo the nuts around the diff,give the diff a little nudge with a rubber mallet and the seal will break gently pull it out be warned it is quite heavy hold the sides just in case it drops to the floor as you dont want to trap you fingers underneath it,
then obviously put it back the same way,
when its all back together dont forget the oil,
aslo when re bleeding the rear brakes do NOT pump the pedal all the way to the floor,as the pedal never usualy goes all the way to the floor so dont push it all the way as the seal may tear inside,
i always as a rule when bleeding the rear brakes put my left foot under the brake pedal then pump the pedal with my right foot that way you wont push the pedal too far,
i changed the rear diff only a few weeks ago and it took about 3 hours in total,
its really not a bad job if you have the right tools,
hope this helps,
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