What mods?..

[Bear Ona Bike]

My 3.0 SSRG TD Manual Surf has achieved toy status so its time to consider a few mods....
I'll be wanting to play in the mud so what's recommended?
I'm thinking of a body lift, bash plates, winch, intercooler, snorkle etc.

This is going to be done on a budget as and when finances allow. And I don't mind getting my hands dirty.

So whats the easiest/best mods?

[an1mal_69]

If you want to get out in the mud asap then i'd go for wheels and tyres first. Combined with a decent 2" suspension lift, you'll get pretty much anywhere everyone else is going.

Next i'd go for protection, bash plate, sliders, bumpers etc. Not sure how much actual performance you gain from the intercooler, better to go for a transmission cooler first.

There are things you can do that cost nothing, rotate your air intake (check Calos' post '@an1mal_69') this moves it from right where your bow wave would/could be to just under your scuttle panel. Also torsion bars, wind these to lift the front to match the rear. Personally I would only wind them 1" and add Ball joint spacers @ 1" to give your 2" overall, reason being, you alter the properties of the bar/spring by winding it up.

[KERRSURF]

Wouldn't it be better to just use 2" balljoint spacers and leave the torsion bars alone?

[Albannach]

This was an irrelevant post! Sorry...

[an1mal_69]

Wouldn't it be better to just use 2" balljoint spacers and leave the torsion bars alone?

you could do, If you're planning a new bumper, winch etc tho, I'd go 1" and 1" on the torsion bars..the extra tension would help support the weight over the front..or, upgrade to stronger torsion bars which incurs more £££

Like everything it depends on what you want to do with the truck & planning the mods' so they don't interfere with future plans..

[Albannach]

you could do, If you're planning a new bumper, winch etc tho, I'd go 1" and 1" on the torsion bars..the extra tension would help support the weight over the front..or, upgrade to stronger torsion bars which incurs more £££

I don't think winding up the torsion bars gives any more tension, it merely moves the suspension a bit on its arc.

The extra suspension height means that when you fit a winch, the suspension sag, caused by the weight of the winch, takes the suspension back to roughly where it would have been without the winch and torsion bar adjustment.

[blakarm]

you could do, If you're planning a new bumper, winch etc tho, I'd go 1" and 1" on the torsion bars..the extra tension would help support the weight over the front.

I don't think winding up the torsion bars gives any more tension, it merely moves the suspension a bit on its arc.

Lifting the front end in this way does indeed firm up the front end. When the suspension is in its standard position, it lies relatively flat. When compressed, the all the force goes directly to the torsion bar.
When lifted by winding up the torsion bar, the angles of the arms are much steeper, and any forces will, to a degree, 'push' as well as twist them, resulting in less force going directly to the torsion bar, and therefore 'firming up' the suspension.
I did this to mine deliberatley, to even things out after i'd put landcruiser rear spring on.

Downside of this is that you have firmed up the first part of travel, then as the everything levels out, the torsion bar get more direct leverage, but ITS now firm because its now fairly 'wound up'.
Or in other words, youve lost some of the progresive nature of the standard set up.

[yoshie]

Lifting the front end in this way does indeed firm up the front end. When the suspension is in its standard position, it lies relatively flat. When compressed, the all the force goes directly to the torsion bar.
When lifted by winding up the torsion bar, the angles of the arms are much steeper, and any forces will, to a degree, 'push' as well as twist them, resulting in less force going directly to the torsion bar, and therefore 'firming up' the suspension.
I did this to mine deliberatley, to even things out after i'd put landcruiser rear spring on.

Downside of this is that you have firmed up the first part of travel, then as the everything levels out, the torsion bar get more direct leverage, but ITS now firm because its now fairly 'wound up'.
Or in other words, youve lost some of the progresive nature of the standard set up.

In short post 3 was spot on. Fit spacers = get the height and keep the suspension feel/travel.

[KERRSURF]

A list of mods I would do in order would be.

Best mud tyres you can afford.
Best uprated suspension you can afford.

Go and play.

you will be amazed how good these trucks really are.

All the extra stuff like winches, sliders, snorkels etc are things you will get when you feel you need them ie; when you are getting into places you get really stuck or going into water thats really deep.

If you go out with a decent recovery kit, good tow points, kinetic rope (use it properly!) and proper shackles and of course another vehicle capable of towing you (don't offroad alone) then with the tyre and suspension mods I suggested you will learn over time any tweaks you want to do to the truck and have a fantastic time.

[an1mal_69]

In short post 3 was spot on. Fit spacers = get the height and keep the suspension feel/travel.

Agree..ish

as with everything there is compromise. Wind the bars 2" and increase pre-load on the front suspension which in turn reduces articulation, thinking about it, this is ideal if you spend 95% of your time on the road as the stiffer ride would reduce body roll.

fitting the spacers is not as straight forward as it seems, I've recently fitted a set of 40mm and had to remove material from the wishbones to get them in. Adding 1" spacers may not require any chopping.?

[KERRSURF]

There are new shaped spacers available now that means no cutting of the wishbone is required.

[blakarm]

Adding 1" spacers may not require any chopping.?

Cant remember where I saw it, but one of the aussie lads put 1" spacers in. Sure he said it was a bit tight, but went in without the chop.

[an1mal_69]

There are new shaped spacers available now that means no cutting of the wishbone is required.

That's not the problem.!

I got the 40mm spacers in without chopping, but then its sitting just inside the wishbone & the ball-joint cannot butt up against the spacer due to stuff in the way. Also the route the bolts run puts them into the wishbone if they are over a certain length, again, i'm not sure but you may get away with an inch spacer without cutting, much more and its inevitable so far as i can see.

[Bear Ona Bike]

Thanks for the replies!

I think the first thing I need to do is just get it muddy! So I'll get a spare set of wheels and fit some mud tyres. Winding up the front torsion bar an inch or so the get a bit more ground clearance makes sense but I'm guessing thats not going to give me more wheel arch clearance for tyres as the suspension can/will still bottom out. Will fitting spacers stop this?
Anyone know the biggest/best tyres that will fit a stock Surf with no body lift?

Looking at the back end I'm concerned that the exhaust will ground out first, then the tow bar, then the fog lamp (removable). How much of an issue is the exhaust? I don't want to rip the thing off first time out!

[KERRSURF]

Winding the torsion bars will not get more ground clearance.
Fitting bigger tires will.

To fit bigger tires, 33's you need the suspension lift and bodylift done to get clearance at the arches.
You gain around an inch at diffs.

I just trimmed the exhaust back to stop it getting crushed, MOT man still passes it.

Take off the foglight and towbar (it will act like a plough)