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3ltr 1st gen
This is the tale of how Jotto & I replaced my 1st gen 2.4 engine with a 3.0 engine.
There will not be many technical specs, torque settings or angle of the dangle measurements simply because in true surf style we (well Jotto & Roger)made it up as we went along.
What you need
1.A 1kz-t engine (or a 1kz-te with a manual fuel pump)
2.A manual gearbox from either a 3ltr 4runner/surf or a 2.4 2nd gen gearbox with a 3ltr bell housing. (the 1st gen gearbox is to small )[make sure that the speedo cable connections are the same as your truck, also that the 4wheel drive system is the same, either manual select or electronic select.]
3. The front prop of off a 2.4 2nd gen.
4.A 3ltr radiator plus top & bottom hoses.
5.If you are doing this to a 1st gen you will need a 3ltr clutch slave cylinder.
6.The 3ltr exhaust system.
7.The gearbox mounting for either a 2nd gen 2.4 (we used this one) or 3ltr 2nd gen.
Step 1.remove the engine and gearbox. Remembering to drop the anti roll bar, and where all the electrical connections went.
Step2.Cut off the chassis engine mounts. DO THIS CARFULLY YOU WILL NEED TO REUSE THEM.
Step 3.If you don’t have the engine mounts for the 3ltr remove the engine mounts from the 2.4 and put them on the 3ltr (we only had 1 3ltr engine mount, but for some reason the chassis mounts did not line up with the 3ltr holes. It was only a minor misalignment so it could have been badly drilled)
Step 4. Bolt the chassis mounts to the 3ltr engine and put the engine and gearbox into the vehicle leaving enough space for the fan and radiator.(mine went in with about 6 cm between the back of the engine and the bulkhead, giving just enough room for the gear leavers to fit.) Mark where the engine mounts meet the chassis and remove the
engine & gearbox.
Step 5.Weld the chassis engine mounts in the marked position.
Step 6. Put the oil pressure censor and water temp censor from the 1st gen 2.4 into the 3ltr. (this is done because all the connections on the 3ltr are different from the 1st gen 2.4 and it makes connecting up again easier)[told you we made it up as we went]
Also at this point fit the starter motor, because once the engine is in it’s a bugger to do.
Step 7. Fit the 3ltr engine and gearbox. Bolt the engine to the mounts. Fit the gearbox mounting bracket. Now fit the gearbox cross member, We (well Jon actually) had to put an extension plate on the cross member, he sank it into the cross member because otherwise the gearbox would have pushed the engine up at the back and would have been hitting the tunnel.
Step 8. Fit the front prop, this can be a tricky task but the easiest way to do it is to tighten one bolt, turn the prop to get at the next bolt then lock the front hubs, tighten the bolt, unlock the hubs, turn the prop to get at the next bolt. Repeat the operation until all the bolts are tight. Fit the rear prop.
Step 9.The alternator on the 3ltr 1kz-t has its own voltage regulator so you need to remove the one that is fitted to the offside inner wing on the 1st gen.(its easy to spot coz it has voltage regulator written on it)
The out put connection for the alternator I robbed off a N reg RAV4 trimmed it a little to make it fit (give yourself plenty of wire of off the plug) connect this plug to the corresponding wires that come out of the 1st gen voltage regulator. Now take out the unneeded voltage regulator.
Step 10. THE GLOW PLUGS. The 1st gen 2lt has a 2 stage system and the 3lt 1kz-t has just a single stage. I connected the black/white power lead from the after glow relay before the resistor to the glow plug buzz bar, it was the only one I could get power from and to turn off on the timer switch.(this means that the glow plugs stay on for approx 120 seconds then turn off, the relay goes tick when the ignition is switched on giving power to the glow plugs and then tick after 120 seconds to turn the glow plugs off.)
Step 11. Fit the exhaust, this is fairly straight forward so long as you can weld (I cant but I know a man who can) the support hangers onto the exhaust pipe to correspond with the hangers on the body.
Step 12. Fit the radiator. You will need to drop the radiator by about ¾ of an inch or else the bonnet (hood) will not shut, this is easy to do just re-drill the holes higher up the mounting plate. However this will mean that the bottom of the radiator is now a lot lower than before, because the 3ltr radiator is taller and it has been lowered.(mine is 11cm below the front cross member which makes it 8cm lower than before) so be aware that the front bash plate (if you use one) will have to be modified. The other way to do it is to have a body lift. Fit the cowling, I’ve had to use my 1st gen 2.4 cowling for now but it does fit albeit with a bit of remodelling.
This may have appeared to be a simple job to do but let me assure you it still took us a week to do. We had 3 gearboxes to play with and all of them had different types of Speedo connections, different 4WD selector options and gear stick set ups. But with a bit of thought and a few cups of TEA we got there in the end.
As for the BIG question, would we do it again the answer is NO…..
Once again thanks to Vagrant no2 for the use of the engine hoist, Rodger (Gamedawn) for the use of his knowledge and help, but most of all to JOTTO who let me use his workshop and welding skills plus a week of his life to do the job.
Also thanks Mrs Jotto for putting up with me for the week, feeding me and making the curtains in my room.
http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/e...post%20photos/
This is the tale of how Jotto & I replaced my 1st gen 2.4 engine with a 3.0 engine.
There will not be many technical specs, torque settings or angle of the dangle measurements simply because in true surf style we (well Jotto & Roger)made it up as we went along.
What you need
1.A 1kz-t engine (or a 1kz-te with a manual fuel pump)
2.A manual gearbox from either a 3ltr 4runner/surf or a 2.4 2nd gen gearbox with a 3ltr bell housing. (the 1st gen gearbox is to small )[make sure that the speedo cable connections are the same as your truck, also that the 4wheel drive system is the same, either manual select or electronic select.]
3. The front prop of off a 2.4 2nd gen.
4.A 3ltr radiator plus top & bottom hoses.
5.If you are doing this to a 1st gen you will need a 3ltr clutch slave cylinder.
6.The 3ltr exhaust system.
7.The gearbox mounting for either a 2nd gen 2.4 (we used this one) or 3ltr 2nd gen.
Step 1.remove the engine and gearbox. Remembering to drop the anti roll bar, and where all the electrical connections went.
Step2.Cut off the chassis engine mounts. DO THIS CARFULLY YOU WILL NEED TO REUSE THEM.
Step 3.If you don’t have the engine mounts for the 3ltr remove the engine mounts from the 2.4 and put them on the 3ltr (we only had 1 3ltr engine mount, but for some reason the chassis mounts did not line up with the 3ltr holes. It was only a minor misalignment so it could have been badly drilled)
Step 4. Bolt the chassis mounts to the 3ltr engine and put the engine and gearbox into the vehicle leaving enough space for the fan and radiator.(mine went in with about 6 cm between the back of the engine and the bulkhead, giving just enough room for the gear leavers to fit.) Mark where the engine mounts meet the chassis and remove the
engine & gearbox.
Step 5.Weld the chassis engine mounts in the marked position.
Step 6. Put the oil pressure censor and water temp censor from the 1st gen 2.4 into the 3ltr. (this is done because all the connections on the 3ltr are different from the 1st gen 2.4 and it makes connecting up again easier)[told you we made it up as we went]
Also at this point fit the starter motor, because once the engine is in it’s a bugger to do.
Step 7. Fit the 3ltr engine and gearbox. Bolt the engine to the mounts. Fit the gearbox mounting bracket. Now fit the gearbox cross member, We (well Jon actually) had to put an extension plate on the cross member, he sank it into the cross member because otherwise the gearbox would have pushed the engine up at the back and would have been hitting the tunnel.
Step 8. Fit the front prop, this can be a tricky task but the easiest way to do it is to tighten one bolt, turn the prop to get at the next bolt then lock the front hubs, tighten the bolt, unlock the hubs, turn the prop to get at the next bolt. Repeat the operation until all the bolts are tight. Fit the rear prop.
Step 9.The alternator on the 3ltr 1kz-t has its own voltage regulator so you need to remove the one that is fitted to the offside inner wing on the 1st gen.(its easy to spot coz it has voltage regulator written on it)
The out put connection for the alternator I robbed off a N reg RAV4 trimmed it a little to make it fit (give yourself plenty of wire of off the plug) connect this plug to the corresponding wires that come out of the 1st gen voltage regulator. Now take out the unneeded voltage regulator.
Step 10. THE GLOW PLUGS. The 1st gen 2lt has a 2 stage system and the 3lt 1kz-t has just a single stage. I connected the black/white power lead from the after glow relay before the resistor to the glow plug buzz bar, it was the only one I could get power from and to turn off on the timer switch.(this means that the glow plugs stay on for approx 120 seconds then turn off, the relay goes tick when the ignition is switched on giving power to the glow plugs and then tick after 120 seconds to turn the glow plugs off.)
Step 11. Fit the exhaust, this is fairly straight forward so long as you can weld (I cant but I know a man who can) the support hangers onto the exhaust pipe to correspond with the hangers on the body.
Step 12. Fit the radiator. You will need to drop the radiator by about ¾ of an inch or else the bonnet (hood) will not shut, this is easy to do just re-drill the holes higher up the mounting plate. However this will mean that the bottom of the radiator is now a lot lower than before, because the 3ltr radiator is taller and it has been lowered.(mine is 11cm below the front cross member which makes it 8cm lower than before) so be aware that the front bash plate (if you use one) will have to be modified. The other way to do it is to have a body lift. Fit the cowling, I’ve had to use my 1st gen 2.4 cowling for now but it does fit albeit with a bit of remodelling.
This may have appeared to be a simple job to do but let me assure you it still took us a week to do. We had 3 gearboxes to play with and all of them had different types of Speedo connections, different 4WD selector options and gear stick set ups. But with a bit of thought and a few cups of TEA we got there in the end.
As for the BIG question, would we do it again the answer is NO…..
Once again thanks to Vagrant no2 for the use of the engine hoist, Rodger (Gamedawn) for the use of his knowledge and help, but most of all to JOTTO who let me use his workshop and welding skills plus a week of his life to do the job.
Also thanks Mrs Jotto for putting up with me for the week, feeding me and making the curtains in my room.
http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/e...post%20photos/
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