for those who have fitted a body lift

[scotty]

were you left with this bit.

i am, and the draft i am getting from around the gear sticks would blowing the head off my fag. and it lets a lot of sound in aswell, the cab is really noisy now.

its like having another heater once the engine has heated up.

does iy go back in from the top or from underneth.

cheers scotty

[stormforce]

were you left with this bit.

i am, and the draft i am getting from around the gear sticks would blowing the head off my fag. and it lets a lot of sound in aswell, the cab is really noisy now.

its like having another heater once the engine has heated up.

does iy go back in from the top or from underneth.

cheers scotty

i never took mine off to do the body lift so i wouldn't know,but looking at it i would say from the top.Did you take part of the centre consol out to remove it.All i got to do is to trim a bit of the rubber or body so that i can use low ratio

[scotty]

cheers mate,

i didnt do the lift myself, the spanner sayes that he had to remove it, because i wasnt going into 5th or reverse or low range, with it on.

yes, he did have the centre consol out, so you could be right.

i was wondering if i could butcher it a little and put it back in to stop the draught and noise.

i was also worried that it would let in water if i was wading.

cheers scotty

[stormforce]

cheers mate,

i didnt do the lift myself, the spanner sayes that he had to remove it, because i wasnt going into 5th or reverse or low range, with it on.

yes, he did have the centre consol out, so you could be right.

i was wondering if i could butcher it a little and put it back in to stop the draught and noise.

i was also worried that it would let in water if i was wading.

cheers scotty

where the gear selectors go toreverse, 5th and low ratio you will probably have to trim a bit of the body out in order for it to get into gear with that shroud in place,as that is what i have to do to get my auto into low ratio

[stormforce]

just trim a bit out at a time and refit the shroud and see if it goes into gear and l/ratio easy,if not then try trimming a bit more off and try again

[scotty]

cheers richard.

[jamsironwork]

i have a manual gearbox with a body lift too, found the best way to get over the problam was too cut then weld in an extra 2 inches into the straight part of the gear lever as it comes out of the box.
i dont think you will get that gaiter back on without the longer gearstick most body lifts done on here have the auto box i think and trimming out the tunnel works ok

[scotty]

cheers,

mine is a manual as well,

the spanner did say something about cuting and welding a bit onto the gear lever, i take it that he was talking about the same bit as you are.

thanks again

[Danno]

I sorted the prob by chomping chunks out the metal plate till it fitted and losing all but the top rubber gator. Worked just fine ask drunken monkey boy (who nows owns the truck.)

It was a bit noisier but not enough to cause a problem.

The "proper" way is the cut and weld route tho.

[Gupster]

not a cheap option but you could fit a quickshift adaptor which reduces the gear lever throw by about 20% - 30% LAS do them

[TonyN]

not a cheap option but you could fit a quickshift adaptor which reduces the gear lever throw by about 20% - 30% LAS do them

Yeah, lengthing the levers low down helps, but it also increases the throw of the lever.

The quickshift adapters are proper way to do it. But I know what you lot are like for spending money and keeping it stock feeling, vs just cutting a bigger hole in the floor or having a longer lever.

[andrewlee31]

bodgit and scarper has nothing on us.



no where did i put my bailing twine... my bumpers fell off again...