Help needed please - post Head Trauma!

[VidaMusic]

Hi fellas.

So, i had a brand new head fitted to my KZN130 a few weeks ago, i bought fully built up one, so not cheap. Timing belt, and tensioner kit too. The 'garage' who did it for me made a right mess of it. Clips broke here and there, bonnet rubber's ripped (not much, i know, but still not acceptable) oil all over passenger seat and tailgate carpet, odd bolt missing here and there... grrrrrr..

Anyway, Does anyone have an idea as to why my rev counter wouldn't be working since this operation? Working perfect before, and now, with ignition off, the needle is right down at 6 o clock, and when you start the truck, it flicks up to just below zero and doesn't move.

Also, I have added a couple of pics, as i don't know what they are, but i would've seen them like this if they were like it before.

All down near the mechanism for the accelerator cable. One is like a little switch, that now doesn't have a pipe on the end of it, and traces of oil now coming out, what is this? I can't find any dangling pipes anywhere?

The other 2 are showing oil coming out of an area just behind the accelerator mechanism. I cleaned the engine bay with TFR so i could see if it was new or old oil, and this is the result - from perfectly clean - of an hour's journey.
Is there something missing off this?

I have been pulling my hair out with all of this, really done my head in.

Also, (again) she seems to take a tad longer to start up from cold, where it used to be bang off the key. Now it turns a few times before firing up. And when i turn it off, it feels like it runs on for a second or two - and really not smooth. Just doesn't seem right.

Any help, at all, would really be appreciated.

Thanks guys

Rich

[wishbone]

Can't tell from the pic where the oil is leaking from but that whole 'block' will be cheap enough from a breaker. The dodgy shut down is possibly from the vac hoses being fitted incorrectly (on the vsv's that have been cable tied at the back of the engine rather than bolted to the turbo - throttle body pipe)

The white thing in the 3rd pic should have a pipe running to the turbo sensor that is bolted to the inlet manifold.

Best bet is to meet up with someone with a 3.0 and compare pipes.

[VidaMusic]

Can't tell from the pic where the oil is leaking from but that whole 'block' will be cheap enough from a breaker. The dodgy shut down is possibly from the vac hoses being fitted incorrectly (on the vsv's that have been cable tied at the back of the engine rather than bolted to the turbo - throttle body pipe)

I knew these were not like that before. Thanks for that mate.

The white thing in the 3rd pic should have a pipe running to the turbo sensor that is bolted to the inlet manifold.

Best bet is to meet up with someone with a 3.0 and compare pipes.

Yeah, my mate has one, will have to go and compare with his. Many thanks..

[andyverran]

Quality garage there then.....not

[NiftyNev]

Check the studs in the intake manifold. If they tried to remove the nuts holding the elbow down and not held the top of studs with a 6mm socket, then when nuts are turned the stud turns and strips the thread in the manifold. The gasket will not seal unless the studs are ok. Try gently turning the nuts to tighten slightly. If the studs turns then I'd say they have stuffed the manifold. It can be fixed with helicoils. Did one a while back that some mechanic had really butchered.

Nev.

[VidaMusic]

Does anyone know if the 'sprocket' half-moon units on the tailgate mechanism are the same size as the other door mech's? I need one as the old teeth have rusted off on the one that the motor runs..

Also, re the above opening post, I've noticed the turbo pressure sensor is broke underneath! That's why there's no pipe on it - total muppets.

Just ordered new radiator and Rancho 2" ext shocks all round from RoughTrax. Spent wayyyyyy too much in her this last month!!