CV boot replace

[dannyboy77]

CV boot change

i know its not the hardest change and many have people haev done it but though while changin mine would document it so anyone who doesnt know how to do it can follow the back yard mechanic steps haha

1) undo the 6 bolts between the front diff and CV. can only do 3 at a time and then have to jack up the wheel and spin it around to get the other 3



2) (optional but easier) use a scissor ball joint splitter to remove the lowest bolt off the diff as it make it easier to get the CV out



3) remove wheel and crack the end cap off using a screw driver and hammer





4) unscrew the bolt out from the end



5) unscrew the 6 bolts in turn dont take them off though till you have popped out the inner piece using a hammer hit directly over each one



6) once you have removed the 6 bolts and the flange there will be gasket paper between that and the hub so it made need to be replaced when refitting, next there is a snap ring (PITA) remove that (still trying to find the best way)





7) sorry to the professional mechanics here remove the 54mm nut either with the proper tool from rough trax or backyard meachanic it with a screw driver. there are 2 and a washer



8 ) then can remove the CV from the truck this is where removing the lowest bolt from the diff makes it a bit easier



9) remove the ripped boot and remove the snap ring to take off the end bearing so can place the new boot on and then do the reverse.



hope this is OK

[Ploddit]

Great gotta few to do must order:

Snap ring (if I lose it)
tabbed washer
RT spanner
Gasket

Is it easy to do the bronze bushes at the same time?

[Balllsy]

thanks, this is next on my to do list

[zeppelin lad]

Great tip

Removing one of the diff end bolts with the joint splitter is a great tip, nothing like the struggle I had last time. Thanks!

Not necessary to remove the 54mm nuts though.....not on mine anyway!

[Ploddit]

I'm doing mine now and have encountered a little problem....

The outer CV joint had what I assume was the snap ring chewed up in two halves inside it.

The joint seems undamaged but my problem is that I don't have it, and the toyota fiche seems vague.

Is it part no 43411B as it says 2? or does the inner cv joint need two, if so where is it.

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_199...KMQT_4302.html

Ca I still run without it?

Thanks...

[TonyN]

The outer CV isn't suppost to be taken apart, the snap ring usually breaks, and isn't available seperately, the inner CV has a circlip type clip (without the handy holes) and is removable to let you strip the gaiters off and change them from the inner end.

If you buy a new outer CV, you'll get a new snap ring.

[Ploddit]

Marvellous. The clip broke a while ago judging by its mashed appearance.

So I'm good for a new outer CV then or would any of these lovely dismantlers have a clip (see desperation will pay) lieing about.

I guess reassembling without it is folly?

Roughtrax quote

New Price! New Outer CV joint for Independent Front Suspension models (IFS) only, 1991 on and has 26 splines. Comes with outer boot, clips and the snap ring which often breaks when removing the old joint.
L/H and R/H are the same.

If I don't get this ball joint out soon I'm good for a knuckle too....

UPdate:

After a variety of silly ball joint removers failed I removed the knuckle which I had to do to change the bronze bushes anyway - heated it for ages then hit the ball joint bolt with a FBH - seems the only way.

Luckily I ordered a outer CV snap ring from RT but RT says it goes on the inside of the CV joint:

http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/?doc=16&cid=161&vid=226

Call me dumb but how can this hold in the shaft?

I'll be interested after new bronze bushes to see if my drive flange axial play is reduced.

[Ploddit]

[QUOTE=Ploddit;729503]Marvellous. The clip broke a while ago judging by its mashed appearance.



If I don't get this ball joint out soon I'm good for a knuckle too....

UPdate:

After a variety of silly ball joint removers failed I removed the knuckle which I had to do to change the bronze bushes anyway - heated it for ages then hit the ball joint bolt with a FBH - seems the only way.

Luckily I ordered a outer CV snap ring from RT.

I'll be interested after new bronze bushes to see if my drive flange axial play is reduced.

[TonyN]

Excellent, I didn't think you could get them like that, good ol' Barry.

The ring sits in a groove on the end of the shaft, after its pushed through the inner part of the CV, its pings out a bit but stays in the top of the groove and stops the shaft pulling back.

You have to hammer the CV off, sometimes the ring will slip correctly into the bottom of its slot on the shaft, sometimes it'll break, that why you don't normally take that end apart.

[Ploddit]

All done now;

Upper ball joint changed - wobble gone

Bronze bushes and front ARB drop link rubbers changed - rattle gone

[Hellhound]

Sorry to drag this up from almost exactly a year ago but i started to take my nearside front UJ apart tonight but cant seem to remove it as i've read where you only remove the inner end and leave the hub connected.

I've removed all the nuts and the bottom bolt to move the coupling down but i cant seem to slide it out as the shaft itself is hitting the wishbone and preventing the coupling from dropping below the transfer box flange.

Any ideas? Read this was a 3 hours job and so far its 2 hours in and havnt even got the old boots off yet

[dazandcaz]

Hi, i did all 4 cv boots a little while ago for the mot.http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/cvjoints.htm
This was a useful write-up, easy enough if a little fiddley and only took 2-3 hours per side.

[sleepy]

Sorry to drag this up again but I am in the middle of replacing both joints and have a question.....can somebody who has done this tell me how they managed to slide the cv joint out as I can't seem to get my one to, the space between the droplink on one side and the shock on the other side is smaller than the diameter of the cv itself...I can't see how anyone would be able to get this out without moving one out of the way?!?

Am I doing something wrong or missing something obvious, any help would be appreciated as I would rather north mess with these rusty bolts on drop link or shock

[NiftyNev]

Remove lower shock mount and the sway bar link. Also jack up lower control arm so it's horizontal. Simple once you do this.

Nev.

[sleepy]

Remove lower shock mount and the sway bar link. Also jack up lower control arm so it's horizontal. Simple once you do this.

Nev.

Cheers mate, it was horizontal and also tried all types of angles. Only issue was getting around the drop link and strut tower like I say it seems impossible to get cv out without moving one. I think I will get away with just removing drop link as that's the side that wouldnt clear really, both this write up and the other one linked in this thread don't mention removing drop link or strut so was hoping I had missed something as bolts are really corroded, will prob have to cut drop link off and order new one.