Removing rear shocks

[cabbage]

Could someone please advise a fool on a method of removing some stubborn rear shocks? I’ve done the important bit of applying the sticker from the new set to my back door but the next bits got me stumped.

I've found the top nut, turned it the right way (honest, I did check) but I cant stop the upper shock sleeve from turning as well. I've tried a few methods of locking it with a strap wrench and g-clamps and also doing the opposite of locking the nut and trying to turn the shock (after removing the bottom bolt). I've also used up all my swear words on it and stared at it for ages but it’s still not come off....

Is there a method so cunning and devilishly devious that my foolish mind can't comprehend or have I just missed the "eject rear shocks" button on the dash??

p.s. I have also tried searching on here but to no avail.

Ta muchly

[Albannach]

Spray WD40 on the top mounting a few times in the week before you try to remove the nut. And use good quality mole grips to stop the shaft turning.

[sledge]

you need to hold the stainless shaft with mole grips or such like. by the sounds of it your holding the painted bit at the bottom.

[Albannach]

you need to hold the stainless shaft with mole grips or such like. by the sounds of it your holding the painted bit at the bottom.

I did think that to start with, but I'm sure nobody is that daft...

[sledge]

I did think that to start with, but I'm sure nobody is that daft...

mmmm maybe he did say he was using a strap wrench and G clamp.

[cabbage]

ah yes, "the painted bit" would that be the larger sleeve that the bottom of the shock sides into? (mines all rust) if yes then that is what i'm trying to hold. I may therefore have lowerd the "I'm sure nobody is that daft... " benchmark down a bit....

I couldnt get any purchase further up the shock and I can see no stainless parts... do you mean to pull the shock down far enough to allow access to the main shaft of the shock?? if thats possible....

i think i'll got hide under my yota again.........


edit: please remember i am a landrover owner, these fangled jap cars require more than just a hammer and a box of nails to fix...........

[Albannach]

ah yes, "the painted bit" would that be the larger sleeve that the bottom of the shock sides into? (mines all rust) if yes then that is what i'm trying to hold. I may therefore have lowerd the "I'm sure nobody is that daft... " benchmark down a bit....

Oh dear! Oh dear fcukin dear!

The bit you are holding has a shiny metal rod inside it (the rod slides inside the bottom of the damper). The shiny rod is the bit you want to be holding with Vice Grips.

[KERRSURF]

Steady on now Andy, he is taking it in good spirit, don't boil !

[Albannach]

I'm not even tepid yet

[TonyN]

ah yes, "the painted bit" would that be the larger sleeve that the bottom of the shock sides into? (mines all rust) if yes then that is what i'm trying to hold. I may therefore have lowerd the "I'm sure nobody is that daft... " benchmark down a bit....

I couldnt get any purchase further up the shock and I can see no stainless parts... do you mean to pull the shock down far enough to allow access to the main shaft of the shock?? if thats possible....

i think i'll got hide under my yota again.........


edit: please remember i am a landrover owner, these fangled jap cars require more than just a hammer and a box of nails to fix...........

everyone has to start somewhere,

[Growler]

I found it easier to grind a flat on the shiny rod to make clamping it with mole grips more positive

[hellmett]

Re

If you are going to scrap the old shocks then just beat the shit out of it to get it out.

I had to literally bend it back and forth until the threaded part snapped, the bl00dy things are impossible to get any purchase on if the top part is rusty or "wrung" and the nut is seized.

There is just no hand room or space to manouvre.

Just be careful you don't wreck the mount.

Remember to grease the hell out of it as well, will save you the same problems if you need to replace again.

Mines covered in copper grease.

It sounds like the guy has the solid sleeved variety not the rod and gaiter/boot version!

Even holding the top sleeve ain't gonna hack it as it is probably torn loose of the rod and moving freely.

The only way to get it out is to hold the top of the threaded part with vice grips (as someone has stated already).

If the threaded part is wrung/rounded then it will be a bugger hence the brute force and ignorance approach!

You could always get a nut splitter on it and break the nut off I suppose if you were completely bamboozled?

[cabbage]

Morning all, thanks for the replies, I’ve got a way forward now.

It is the solid sleeved shocks that I’m taking off. Ta very muchly and apologies for any inconvenience or frustration my posting has caused.










p.s. what’s the biggest tyres I can fit to my surf????? :P
hehheh

[hellmett]

Re

You're welcome!

In the rare occassion that some people become irate or annoyed because you aren't instantly transformed into "Mr. Surf Genuis" or "enlightened" by their replies then just ignore.

[Albannach]

Morning all, thanks for the replies, I’ve got a way forward now.

It is the solid sleeved shocks that I’m taking off. Ta very muchly and apologies for any inconvenience or frustration my posting has caused.

p.s. what’s the biggest tyres I can fit to my surf????? :P
hehheh

Nobody got upset, what gave you that idea?

As for the biggest tyres, that all depensd on how much Suspension/body lift you have. +4" will allow you to run 33" tyres.