Autobox Oil Change Advice!

[hellmett]

Right!

Finally got around to doing this!

I used my "Oil Suction Pump" thing and it worked a treat!

Moving the shifter between the gears every few pints to get as much out as I could of course!

It managed to get "exactly" 4 litres, sucking from the dip hole (which was handy cos I only had "exactly" 4 litres of Dextron III left).

I refilled it the same way, down the dip hole with a tailor made funnel!

Here's some advice to you all!

What I found was when I checked the oil in the autobox it looked fine, a wee bit darker but it still seemed ok!

I thought bugger it, I may as well change it cos I am in my dirty clobber!

When the pump had done it's job I was shocked at the state of the oil!

It looked like dark brown rusty water, it was totally rank!

It seems that when you dip the oil it doesn't give you the true picture of what state the oil is really in!

All the bad stuff must just run off as you pull the dipstick out leaving a film that can look pretty healthy!

Maybe cos I used the suction method I managed to get a lot of crap out of the sump, I don't really know!

All I know is the difference between the oil on the dipstick and what is really lurking in there!

Gary

[Bogus]

Im wondering why you used that method. You can get 4 litres out just by draining the box, and both of these methods still leave a whole lot more in there which doesnt get removed. Seems to me that your chosen method is more fiddly and labour intensive with no obvious gain. Am I missing something here?

bogus

[sv1000spilot]

You can always try my method..........


Drive with a broken pipe between gearbox and cooler, gets ALL the fluid out.

Does mean you have to go home on a flatbed though

[hellmett]

Im wondering why you used that method. You can get 4 litres out just by draining the box, and both of these methods still leave a whole lot more in there which doesnt get removed. Seems to me that your chosen method is more fiddly and labour intensive with no obvious gain. Am I missing something here?

bogus

How?

Pull the dipstick out, shove a long hard tube in, pump the handle and watch the oil come gushing out into a measured container?

Pour it back in through the dip hole, knowing the exact amount!

How is this more labour intensive than the traditional way?

I never spilled a drop!

It took me 20 minutes, tops!

If I had of done it the other way, if it was anything like my last oil change, there would have been oil all over the place!

All I can say is try it if you can, it's deffo a great way of getting oil out of fiddly places!

[Maverick]

I must admit I've always unsed the traditional method, and I change my trans oil every service.
Undo drain nut over bucket (the type B&Q were practically throwing at you at one point (I use the same bucket for draining the engine oil). Do another job whilst you wait. Replace drain plug, pour old oil into old oil bottle (I always keep a couple after servicing). Using the little transparent window on the side of the bottle you know the exact amount of new fluid to add (it's normally about 4 litres). Run truck check levels.

I can't (won't) coment on which is easier because I haven't tried suction, don't have the equipment, although I wonder if the degreaser adaptor for my air tools could be turned into a suction device?

[hellmett]

Re

I take it you don't have a big old air con radiator stuck to the bottom of your engine then?

[nero279]

not anywhere near the gearbox sump nut anyway...

[hellmett]

Re

My mistake, never changed the oil before yesterday!

You seem to know your stuff!

What other fluid should I check/change now?

Have done:-

Engine Oil
Brake Fluid
PAS Fluid
Coolant
Autobox
Greased Propshaft
Greased Ball Joints

[Bogus]

My mistake, never changed the oil before yesterday!

You seem to know your stuff!

What other fluid should I check/change now?

Have done:-

Engine Oil
Brake Fluid
PAS Fluid
Coolant
Autobox
Greased Propshaft
Greased Ball Joints

Change your diff oils. drain and refill to to fill plug level. Make sure your rear diff isnt LSD ( probably isnt, but could be ) as you need special oil for an LSD diff.

Bogus

[si tate]

Change your diff oils. drain and refill to to fill plug level. Make sure your rear diff isnt LSD ( probably isnt, but could be ) as you need special oil for an LSD diff.

Bogus

You beat me too it

[hellmett]

Re

How do you tell if it is LSD?

My back axle is Waxoyled to death!

As I remember, there is clear/greenish/stinky stuff in the front under the engine, what is this?

and a red colour fluid in the back diff?

[Growler]

How do you tell if it is LSD?

My back axle is Waxoyled to death!

As I remember, there is clear/greenish/stinky stuff in the front under the engine, what is this?

and a red colour fluid in the back diff?

You need to check your axle code on the vin plate under the bonnet. If I remember correctly if it ends in a 5 i.e. G295 then it is an LSD if anything else then it's not.

I'm sure someone will be along to correct me if I got it wrong

[hellmett]

You need to check your axle code on the vin plate under the bonnet. If I remember correctly if it ends in a 5 i.e. G295 then it is an LSD if anything else then it's not.

I'm sure someone will be along to correct me if I got it wrong

I just checked it, it ends G145 so I presume it has a LSD?

[Growler]

I just checked it, it ends G145 so I presume it has a LSD?

Diff Codes
This should help you. Open the Excel spreadsheet and check out your code, but yes i would say you have an LSD with that code

[turbolover]

LSD or non LSD

Simple, just jack up the rear axle. With hand brake released and transmission neutral, rotate one of the rear wheel, if the other wheel rotates in the same direction then you are lucjy enough to have an LSD. If the other wheel rotate in the opposite direction then is a simple differential.

pros and cons of each ... a debate that needs a seperate thread

i hope this will help