kN130 Beam axel swap

[Milty]

I am swapping the IFS to a beam axel from a LN65 but with coils not leaf springs. I am using Prado parts e.g trailing arms, spring plates and shock/spring towers etc has anyone done this? If so i need any help i.e photos or links to sites.If not i will keep a photo dairy of the process for others to follow as i will be doing it to look original this will not be a bodge.

[Guest]

I am swapping the IFS to a beam axel from a LN65 but with coils not leaf springs. I am using Prado parts e.g trailing arms, spring plates and shock/spring towers etc has anyone done this? If so i need any help i.e photos or links to sites.If not i will keep a photo dairy of the process for others to follow as i will be doing it to look original this will not be a bodge.

Milty.

Seem to remember seeing something about a solid axle swap onto an IFS 2nd Gen, however that was using leaf springs. I seem to remember that he said that it has been done with coils but rides very bad because it is difficult to set up and get the spring towers in the right place so that the springs are in the right position.

However if you are using the Prado bits that may make it easier. The only thing I would say is that you need to get the springs as near to vertical both fore / aft and side to side. That should at least put you in a fairly neutral start point. You may want to build in some adjustment capability to the towers so that you can adjust the positions slightly to iron out any poor ride characteristics.

Not sure if anyone else has done this.

Cheers

[TonyN]

If your using coils, you may as well just modify the rear setup with longer radius arms, drop the top panhard rod bracket and leave the rest as. Look at LR Defender springs, they have much more travel than Landcruiser ones, plus the Rover is nearer the weight of a Surf than a 'cruiser.

Which way are you going 3 link like a Rover, or 4 link like the Toy rear end, or you can triangulate the 4 link by crossing them over from frame to axle

try to make your links as parallel to the ground as poss when veiwed from the side

make them as long as you reasonably can

make them as flat as you reasonably can

make the roll axis as high as you reasonably can

vertical separation should be 6" or more. More especially for more horsepower and/or bigger tyres.

make the triangulated portion 40 degrees or more for decent lateral control.

I was thinking of coils/links on our new truck, but I'm just gonna throw the leaves on for now, just to get it working, as there are other jobs to do on it as well, maybe just 1/4 elip. the rear if I'm feeling in the mood.



Would be nice to lose the front and rear overhang that leaves need though.

[Milty]

If your using coils, you may as well just modify the rear setup with longer radius arms, drop the top panhard rod bracket and leave the rest as. Look at LR Defender springs, they have much more travel than Landcruiser ones, plus the Rover is nearer the weight of a Surf than a 'cruiser.

Which way are you going 3 link like a Rover, or 4 link like the Toy rear end, or you can triangulate the 4 link by crossing them over from frame to axle

try to make your links as parallel to the ground as poss when veiwed from the side

make them as long as you reasonably can

make them as flat as you reasonably can

make the roll axis as high as you reasonably can

vertical separation should be 6" or more. More especially for more horsepower and/or bigger tyres.

make the triangulated portion 40 degrees or more for decent lateral control.

I was thinking of coils/links on our new truck, but I'm just gonna throw the leaves on for now, just to get it working, as there are other jobs to do on it as well, maybe just 1/4 elip. the rear if I'm feeling in the mood.



Would be nice to lose the front and rear overhang that leaves need though.

Thanks for the info. All done now but still a bit of adjusting to do. cheers Bill

[Delboy]

Thanks for the info. All done now but still a bit of adjusting to do. cheers Bill

Pics & write-up then, pretty please!