Need info on KZN130 4WD System

[fronius]

Hi, I'm guessing this has been asked a thousand times but I searched and didnt find much.

I have an LN130 surf 2.8 with a dead engine and I purchased a complete KZN130 front cut for it. Weel, almost complete. The instruments and some switchgear is missing so I'm after info and/or diagrams on the 4wd system. (theres some vac operated item on the front axle and something else hanging out the back of the gearbox - no hub locks that I can see). How does it all work???? (BTW, I run a workshop doing engine conversions on Japanese cars - mainly Toyotas so I have some idea what I'm doing )

Can anyone help? Thanks...

[TonyN]

The lever only works H-n-L

4wd high from the switch on the shifter, leave the lever alone, this works the solonoid on the back of the t/case.

Shifting into low on the lever automatically works the solonoid via the 4wd ECU, you don't need to press the button.

Once the t/case has shifted, the ADD on the front axle works. Like you said, there are no manual/auto hubs (although you can fit them I you want to reduce front drive train wear, or run in Low range 2wd)
The ADD is a vacuum operated coller that slids across and joins the 2 parts of the long side front haft shaft. This lets the truck shift in 4wd at speed (50mph max).

When the solonoid and ADD are in the right places, you get the 4wd light on the dash.

Easy.

[fronius]

Thank you very much for that info! So the front hubs are permanently locked and when the vehicle is in 2wd motion, both front driveshafts and part of the front diff is being rotated? This seems like quite a backward step!

If someone wanted 2wd lo range, wouldnt an inhibit switch on the front drive lock be easier than fitting manual hubs?

One last question, if the 4wd switch isnt present on the tranfer shifter, where should it otherwise be?

[TonyN]

Thank you very much for that info! So the front hubs are permanently locked and when the vehicle is in 2wd motion, both front driveshafts and part of the front diff is being rotated? This seems like quite a backward step!

If someone wanted 2wd lo range, wouldnt an inhibit switch on the front drive lock be easier than fitting manual hubs?

One last question, if the 4wd switch isnt present on the tranfer shifter, where should it otherwise be?

1/ Yup, but thats the price you pay for 'shift-on-the-fly' Lots of people fit manual hubs, so you're not dragging round unnessiary drivetrain parts.

2/ Yup, but there are other bonus for fitting the hubs, its a handy extra.

3/Only Surfs had electronic 4wd select, 4Runners have a manual t/case (H2-H4-N-L4) same as the pickups, but with the ADD bit on the front axle.

If you're DIY'ing it from stratch I'd use a manual T/case and manual hubs and lock the ADD on and not worry about it. But all Surfs have same drive train, LN130 2.4 or 2.8 and KZN130 3.0, if you're changing the motor on a 2.8, you shouldn't have any 4wd issues.

[fronius]

OK, thanks once again.

So I have the car itself. 2.8 4 runner with 4.3:1 gearing, manual hubs and xfer and the G series gearbox.

Then the front cut, 1KZ, R151 trans ADD system and 4.1:1 gearing.
SO will the bigger trans and automated transfer drop on where the old stuff was without driveshaft problems etc? ie, can I keep both axles in the car and just change motor/box/xfer?

[TonyN]

SO will the bigger trans and automated transfer drop on where the old stuff was without driveshaft problems etc? ie, can I keep both axles in the car and just change motor/box/xfer?

I think you'll find the gearboxes are different lenghts, everything will fit, and you shouldn't have to mess with the axles, but you'll need the right propshafts, I know manual and auto truck have different lenght props front and rear. Of the top of my head I can't remember which way round is, may be Autos have short rear and longer front, but not sure.

I have different types of gearbox crossmembers lying around, some with the mount hanging off the back, and some through the middle so there are differences.

I think you'll want to fit new engine/gearbox installed together, work out how the engine/gearbox mounts line up, and get the shafts altered to suit once its in.

If you ditch the viscous fan for a thin electic one, you might be able to shunt the whole lot forward enough so the prop shafts fit. But I don't know.