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Air blocks!!!!!!

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  • Air blocks!!!!!!

    HELP!!!!!! I think that I've got an air block in my beloved surf. I recently topped up the coolant with REd (bought from toyota). I was hearing a sound akin to running water when I accelerated from the heater. Now My heater blows hot and cold even (when it's set on hot) and today the temp guage went really high. Stopped straight away and the expansion bottle was full but the radiator was hot on th etop near the bottle but cold elsewhere. Is this an air lock? if so how do I fix it?
    The Car Behind Is Just Me Chillin' In The Surf!

  • #2
    Originally posted by bigmate
    HELP!!!!!! I think that I've got an air block in my beloved surf. I recently topped up the coolant with REd (bought from toyota). I was hearing a sound akin to running water when I accelerated from the heater. Now My heater blows hot and cold even (when it's set on hot) and today the temp guage went really high. Stopped straight away and the expansion bottle was full but the radiator was hot on th etop near the bottle but cold elsewhere. Is this an air lock? if so how do I fix it?
    have a feel at the heater pipes where they go into the bulkhead, they should both be hot on the inlet & return, if you have an airlock this is most likely where it will be, open the heater up both the front and the back, if it has an airlock let it cool, remove the rad cap and start the engine, let it idle with it off and squeeze all the pipes, leave it running 10 minutes make sure the all the pipes are hot then put the cap back on, should be ok then
    Last edited by gemini; 10 January 2004, 01:54.
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    • #3
      Originally posted by gemini
      have a feel at the heater pipes where they go into the bulkhead, they should both be hot on the inlet & return, if you have an airlock this is most likely where it will be, open the heater up both the front and the back, if it has an airlock let it cool, remove the rad cap and start the engine, let it idle with it off and squeeze all the pipes, leave it running 10 minutes make sure the all the pipes are hot then put the cap back on, should be ok then

      They can be a bugger to bleed.
      I did mine as follows.
      From stone cold open all heaters to hot position (including the rear if fitted). Remove rad cap, check level of coolant top up if required, replace cap. Run engine for a minute giving a couple of good blips on he gas pedal. Turn off remove cap top up if required, repeat process until it takes no more coolant.
      Keep an eye on the coolant level for the next couple of days after (mine dropped the day after must of shifted some more air driving it around).
      Say not always what you know, but always know what you say.

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