dash wa rning lights gone and no start

[sabreuk]

try this link bud just click which bit you need, think its the same as what vince posted.

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/downloads.htm

[sabreuk]

so was the alt kicking out 14v before you fitted it to your truck?

if it was then i would go down the route of checking earthing straps and connections from the alt. something is draining the voltage so i would say check alt wiring for shorts. also not being cheecky did your mechanic fit the new alt properly? he didnt get the connectors for the wiring wrong?

but then if the batt you fitted which you say in not good that might have a dead cell on it so that could give ya a false reading on your volt meter so the alt might be working ok.

on my 2.4 i dont have a split charge system my batts are connected straight across so maybe have a look for a split charge system thats now inop or check batt cables from batt to the other end.

[VitoLig]

yeah i found it already, will print it all out for my mechanic. do i need another alternator? if yes there is one in the scrapyard near by but i dont want to spend any more money. any ways, thanks for now i will post some diagnosis tomorrow unless you have a magic powers to get my beast swallowing roads again

[sabreuk]

i would change the batt for a good one one to start that eliminates that prob. but if yours is a 2 batt system like mine the passenger side batt is the starting batt and the driver side batt is the aux batt which runs everything else. might just be the case both batts are fubar and not charging.

[VitoLig]

hey sabreuk, yes it was giving 14,2 when checked by local alternator guy. i will forward the idea. please remember that it is not me fixing it so i will have to get it checked. Thanks again

[sabreuk]

no probs mate just trying to help. theres not realy much that it can be just a process of elimination, you know the alt is good, you know at least 1 batt is not working properly, you have checked fuses etc leaves wiring after that. if you change the batts and its still the same you have a short. ask your mechanic to check the earth strap on the passenger side of the engine and near the power steering pump on the engine mount bracket there is the main earth strap, might be that has corroded through

[BUSHWHACKER]

The batteries need to be seperated when testing them as they are wired in parallel, some garages don't realise this and think the second battery is just an auxillary one.

[sabreuk]

Extremly Good point Vince with that if there connected in series instead of parrallel you would have a 24v system instead of 12v if that was the case though fuses and relays would be blowing but worth a check but your alt would be kicking out a lower voltage due to doubling what it should be charging.

[Apache]

The only time the alternator would output 10V if it was working on the bench is if there is a huuuge short or a wiring issue. An alternator should maintain its rated voltage (14.4V for a 12v system) up to its maximum current output (which is 60 or 70A on a 2.4 I think).

If there was a massive short somewhere, I suspect you'd have blown lots of fuses and / or had a fire.

What I ALWAYS suggest (though people seldom listen) is find a sparks with a current clamp meter (or buy one yourself for less than a tenner on eBay) and see if there is charge current going to the battery, and if there is 14-ish-volts on the battery when running the truck with idle-up switched in (idle wont always support significant load).

If you can answer 'yes' to both of these simple questions, there is nothing wrong with your alternator - and no need to go and waste £100 or so on a new one.

If you want a quick and dirty test that your alternator can supply current, leave the truck with idle-up ON, and switch headlamps to full beam, turn the radio on etc etc, and check the volts at the battery is still 'somewhere around' 14V. Better still, check that current is NOT being drawn from the battery as the alternator alone should support full normal electrical load.