yobit eobot.com

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Say hello to my little friend!

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Growler
    replied
    Originally posted by Wolfracer View Post
    Have you done the kick down switch mod yet? Sure way to retain first gear...
    Kick down switch is done, but want it changing correctly before I end up relying on the switch

    Leave a comment:


  • Wolfracer
    replied
    Originally posted by Growler View Post
    Seems you have the same issue on your gearbox that Number V has developed recently.

    I have swapped out the ECU last weekend, but ran out of time to test it properly.

    I'll take it out this weekend for a run and see how it goes
    Have you done the kick down switch mod yet? Sure way to retain first gear...

    Leave a comment:


  • Growler
    replied
    Originally posted by zem_41 View Post
    Ok so got all wired up and took for test drive, it seems to be changing up gears too quick so no real power, if it's in L then it seems ok ?
    I have adjusted the gear box cable fully, now if I put my foot flat down at a stand still it seems to stay in 1st till around 3500 rpm then changes up, but if I'm rolling and put my foot down it seems to go straight into 2nd and builds up slowly
    Seems you have the same issue on your gearbox that Number V has developed recently.

    I have swapped out the ECU last weekend, but ran out of time to test it properly.

    I'll take it out this weekend for a run and see how it goes

    Leave a comment:


  • zem_41
    replied
    I seem to have found a guy in Alabama that can fix broken ecu's claiming that he only uses the finest Japanese capacitors that are higher spec than the original!
    Ill paste his message
    Hi there!

    I have rebuilt more LS400 ECU's than anyone on planet Earth!

    I am very meticulous and use the finest capacitors in the world, I am currently the only one rebuilding these that seems to understand the critical nature of using he rare low-ESR, high ripple rejection, long life, high temperature premium Japanese capacitors, which are quite a rare type and not available locally. - These I import from the manufacturers in Japan!

    I also use low ESR soldering techniques which apparently the people on ebay or craigslist or driftmotion and all of these other silly places have no concept of!

    When I finish an ECU with these finest of capacitors, the work is so nice that it looks like the Nippon Denso robots in Tahara, Japan did it! - This attention to detail results in not only solving the problems, but customers tell me they now have more low-end power and better fuel mileage!

    we are not allowed to discuss me doing these on the open forum, because of Club Lexus rules, it makes the paying advertisers mad! - so email me at cacheoverflow@yahoo.com or else give me a call anytime in the evening or even late night!


    cheers!

    Bill Basch
    Vestavia, AL
    850-687-7791
    Any comments?
    Cheers

    Leave a comment:


  • zem_41
    replied
    Cool thanks for the heads up buddy but I need a 1995 one :-(

    Leave a comment:


  • budweiser
    replied
    Originally posted by zem_41 View Post
    OK I'll give that a go, thanks buddy.
    Been doing a bit if research on lextreme, seems no one has been able to crack the immobilizer on these ecu's, it needs to be connected up with the correct key/amplifier/immobilizer ecu (which I don't have anymore).
    Looking at the other option of getting a 95 ecu without the immobilizer, there seem to be lots in the states but most have been reconditioned, are these any good or not worth the time?
    Thanks
    don't know much about that, but these guys got one Lexus breaking

    http://www.hainfordhall.co.uk/breaking/29/lexus/


    if you think you needed it

    Leave a comment:


  • zem_41
    replied
    Ok I'll give that a go, thanks buddy.
    Been doing a bit if research on lextreme, seems no one has been able to crack the immobiliser on these ecu's, it needs to be connected up with the correct key/amplifier/immobiliser ecu (which I don't have anymore).
    Looking at the other option of getting a 95 ecu without the immobiliser, there seem to be lots in the states but most have been reconditioned, are these any good or not worth the time?
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • RebelV8
    replied
    Have you checked the transmission fluid correctly?

    In order to check the level, you need to start the engine and take it for a run to let warm up fully, then stop and leave it idling. Move through all the gear positions starting with park and going down, leave it in each gear for a minute, keeping your foot on the brake, then take it back to the park position and leave idling while you check the level

    Hope this helps

    Leave a comment:


  • zem_41
    replied
    ATF fluid topped up
    No change :-(

    Leave a comment:


  • BUSHWHACKER
    replied
    Originally posted by zem_41 View Post
    Yep all plugged in
    Could be due to the different ECU then.

    Anyway, forget about them for the moment and get that ATF topped up.

    Leave a comment:


  • zem_41
    replied
    Yep all plugged in

    Leave a comment:


  • BUSHWHACKER
    replied
    Originally posted by zem_41 View Post
    Just got codes from ecu, so with te1 earthed and the ignition on
    2 flashes
    1 flash
    2 flashes
    7 flashes
    2 flashes
    8 flashes
    2 flashes
    9 flashes
    7 flashes
    1 flash
    7 flashes
    8 flashes
    Pause
    Then it repeats
    Thanks
    So thats:
    21
    27
    28
    29
    71
    78

    You can ignore codes; 27/29 (Sub O2 sensors) 71 (EGR) & 78 (Fuel pump control)

    21 & 28 are main O2 sensors in the manifolds, have you plugged them in?
    (That may be due to the different ECU)

    Leave a comment:


  • BUSHWHACKER
    replied
    Originally posted by zem_41 View Post
    Replythe ATF level on idle doesn't register on the dip stick, but when it's hot and the engine is off it's half way up the hot mark
    It needs topping up then if it's not registering with the engine idling.

    The level should be halfway in the hot zone on a hot transmission, and halfway in the cold zone on a cold transmission.

    The level will rise with the engine off as it's not being pumped around the transmission.

    Leave a comment:


  • zem_41
    replied
    Just got codes from ecu, so with te1 earthed and the ignition on
    2 flashes
    1 flash
    2 flashes
    7 flashes
    2 flashes
    8 flashes
    2 flashes
    9 flashes
    7 flashes
    1 flash
    7 flashes
    8 flashes
    Pause
    Then it repeats
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • zem_41
    replied
    Reply

    Reply
    Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER View Post

    It'll read low as the tacho is calibrated for a diesel engine. There is a potentiometer that can be adjusted, just turn it fully clockwise....




    Yep, one of the thick black wires with the red or yellow stripe.



    OK, then it might be the ECU.
    That one I gave you to get the truck running came from eBay and I don't know whether if it's a good one or not as I've never needed to use it.


    Unplug the solenoids plug on the passenger side of the transmission and see if you get all gears by shifting the lever manually.
    i can get the gears ok if I select them when driving? Is this what you mean?
    Did your LS400 have a kickdown switch under the throttle pedal?im not 100% sure but I don't remember seeing it
    the ATF level on idle doesn't register on the dip stick, but when it's hot and the engine is off it's half way up the hot mark

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X