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Kick down switch is done, but want it changing correctly before I end up relying on the switch
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Have you done the kick down switch mod yet? Sure way to retain first gear...Originally posted by Growler View PostSeems you have the same issue on your gearbox that Number V has developed recently.
I have swapped out the ECU last weekend, but ran out of time to test it properly.
I'll take it out this weekend for a run and see how it goes
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Seems you have the same issue on your gearbox that Number V has developed recently.Originally posted by zem_41 View PostOk so got all wired up and took for test drive, it seems to be changing up gears too quick so no real power, if it's in L then it seems ok ?
I have adjusted the gear box cable fully, now if I put my foot flat down at a stand still it seems to stay in 1st till around 3500 rpm then changes up, but if I'm rolling and put my foot down it seems to go straight into 2nd and builds up slowly
I have swapped out the ECU last weekend, but ran out of time to test it properly.
I'll take it out this weekend for a run and see how it goes
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I seem to have found a guy in Alabama that can fix broken ecu's claiming that he only uses the finest Japanese capacitors that are higher spec than the original!
Ill paste his message
Hi there!
I have rebuilt more LS400 ECU's than anyone on planet Earth!
I am very meticulous and use the finest capacitors in the world, I am currently the only one rebuilding these that seems to understand the critical nature of using he rare low-ESR, high ripple rejection, long life, high temperature premium Japanese capacitors, which are quite a rare type and not available locally. - These I import from the manufacturers in Japan!
I also use low ESR soldering techniques which apparently the people on ebay or craigslist or driftmotion and all of these other silly places have no concept of!
When I finish an ECU with these finest of capacitors, the work is so nice that it looks like the Nippon Denso robots in Tahara, Japan did it! - This attention to detail results in not only solving the problems, but customers tell me they now have more low-end power and better fuel mileage!
we are not allowed to discuss me doing these on the open forum, because of Club Lexus rules, it makes the paying advertisers mad! - so email me at cacheoverflow@yahoo.com or else give me a call anytime in the evening or even late night!
cheers!
Bill Basch
Vestavia, AL
850-687-7791
Any comments?
Cheers
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don't know much about that, but these guys got one Lexus breakingOriginally posted by zem_41 View PostOK I'll give that a go, thanks buddy.
Been doing a bit if research on lextreme, seems no one has been able to crack the immobilizer on these ecu's, it needs to be connected up with the correct key/amplifier/immobilizer ecu (which I don't have anymore).
Looking at the other option of getting a 95 ecu without the immobilizer, there seem to be lots in the states but most have been reconditioned, are these any good or not worth the time?
Thanks
http://www.hainfordhall.co.uk/breaking/29/lexus/
if you think you needed it
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Ok I'll give that a go, thanks buddy.
Been doing a bit if research on lextreme, seems no one has been able to crack the immobiliser on these ecu's, it needs to be connected up with the correct key/amplifier/immobiliser ecu (which I don't have anymore).
Looking at the other option of getting a 95 ecu without the immobiliser, there seem to be lots in the states but most have been reconditioned, are these any good or not worth the time?
Thanks
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Have you checked the transmission fluid correctly?
In order to check the level, you need to start the engine and take it for a run to let warm up fully, then stop and leave it idling. Move through all the gear positions starting with park and going down, leave it in each gear for a minute, keeping your foot on the brake, then take it back to the park position and leave idling while you check the level
Hope this helps
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Could be due to the different ECU then.Originally posted by zem_41 View PostYep all plugged in
Anyway, forget about them for the moment and get that ATF topped up.
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So thats:Originally posted by zem_41 View PostJust got codes from ecu, so with te1 earthed and the ignition on
2 flashes
1 flash
2 flashes
7 flashes
2 flashes
8 flashes
2 flashes
9 flashes
7 flashes
1 flash
7 flashes
8 flashes
Pause
Then it repeats
Thanks
21
27
28
29
71
78
You can ignore codes; 27/29 (Sub O2 sensors) 71 (EGR) & 78 (Fuel pump control)
21 & 28 are main O2 sensors in the manifolds, have you plugged them in?
(That may be due to the different ECU)
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It needs topping up then if it's not registering with the engine idling.Originally posted by zem_41 View PostReplythe ATF level on idle doesn't register on the dip stick, but when it's hot and the engine is off it's half way up the hot mark
The level should be halfway in the hot zone on a hot transmission, and halfway in the cold zone on a cold transmission.
The level will rise with the engine off as it's not being pumped around the transmission.
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Just got codes from ecu, so with te1 earthed and the ignition on
2 flashes
1 flash
2 flashes
7 flashes
2 flashes
8 flashes
2 flashes
9 flashes
7 flashes
1 flash
7 flashes
8 flashes
Pause
Then it repeats
Thanks
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Reply
Replythe ATF level on idle doesn't register on the dip stick, but when it's hot and the engine is off it's half way up the hot markOriginally posted by BUSHWHACKER View Post
It'll read low as the tacho is calibrated for a diesel engine. There is a potentiometer that can be adjusted, just turn it fully clockwise....
Yep, one of the thick black wires with the red or yellow stripe.
OK, then it might be the ECU.
That one I gave you to get the truck running came from eBay and I don't know whether if it's a good one or not as I've never needed to use it.
Unplug the solenoids plug on the passenger side of the transmission and see if you get all gears by shifting the lever manually.
i can get the gears ok if I select them when driving? Is this what you mean?
Did your LS400 have a kickdown switch under the throttle pedal?im not 100% sure but I don't remember seeing it
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