You don't be long learning about these things once you start digging about and sorting out the gremlins. Hope you get to the bottom of it all and it's just a case of driving and enjoying it
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Yeah, know what you mean.
You don't be long learning about these things once you start digging about and sorting out the gremlins. Hope you get to the bottom of it all and it's just a case of driving and enjoying it
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yes and no - i knew when i left vince's place it had 2 fault codes and i told vince not to worry and i'd sort it out myself but its the usual story with old wiring - works great until you unplug it. plug it back in and something else dies. i don't mind really cos its let me learn the system.Originally posted by gbv2 View PostGood job.
Did you expect to have to fcuk about with it so much regarding the sensors etc?
the rest of the stuff - coolers, alloy radiator, exhaust, dash etc i was going to do anyway.
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Good job.
Did you expect to have to fcuk about with it so much regarding the sensors etc?
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silent running
fitted the X pipe and 2 extra straight through silencers today. also re shaped the drivers downpipe and put a clamp fitting to make it easier to get on and off.
the original was a one piece system so had to be cut to get it off - its now in 3 sections.
used two and half inch bore stainless for tailpipes
its quet enough to hear the 33s now
vince - whats the wire on plug D for the speed sensor link connected to - it makes the digital speedo flash random speed no's sitting still -
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Originally posted by gary-r View Postmy green blue wire has been cut at the plug and the loom end is nowhere to be seen. ill need to run a new wire from the surf t/case sender.
will that still need linked to the wire on the other plug to get a speedo signal.
The signal wire from the sender is at the original, small grey Surf ECU plug behind the kick panel. I think I marked it speedo or signal. Just run the new wire from there and link it to the green/red wire on plug D before connecting to the speedo.
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my green blue wire has been cut at the plug and the loom end is nowhere to be seen. ill need to run a new wire from the surf t/case sender.
will that still need linked to the wire on the other plug to get a speedo signal.
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Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER View PostPlugs in order as they are connected to the cluster:
A.
White/black wire = GROUND.
Green wire = ILLUMINATION.
Black/orange wire = IGNITION 12V.
Black wire with silver dots = TACHO.
B.
Green/blue wire = SPEEDO.
C.
D.
Yellow/red = FUEL GAUGE.
Yellow/blue = LOW FUEL LIGHT.
Using the photo in this post for reference, link the green/blue stripe wire from plug B to the green/red stripe wire in plug D this will get the speedo/odometer working.
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a x - over pipe evens out the pulses from the 2 banks of cylinders on a seperate twin system. i got hassled by the clogland coppers about the exhaust being too noisy so i'm fitting 2 extra 4"round 14" long silencers to quet it down a bit and the x-over should eliminate the raspy back burble on overrun.Originally posted by flounderbout View PostWhat is the thinking behind the Xover pipe Gary? Noise or performance? Have heard/read various things said about them but do not profess to understand.
the hp increase from a x-pipe is probably next to nothing but they do smooth out the way the exhaust works.
im sure some technical wizzard will be along soon to explain it better - i just want it quiter to save on the 150 euro fines over here.
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What is the thinking behind the Xover pipe Gary? Noise or performance? Have heard/read various things said about them but do not profess to understand.Originally posted by gary-r View Postthanks to vince i now have gears - od is now working on the switch as well but the light flashes when its engaged. doesnt make any difference to the od operation though.
the water temp sender tip from gwh was a good one - it made a big difference with the new one in on cold starting and running.
had a spare hour today so i made a crossover pipe for the exhaust too.
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thanks to vince i now have gears - od is now working on the switch as well but the light flashes when its engaged. doesnt make any difference to the od operation though.
the water temp sender tip from gwh was a good one - it made a big difference with the new one in on cold starting and running.
had a spare hour today so i made a crossover pipe for the exhaust too.
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Hey Gary, glad it's running better. The ect thing...leave it in . The torque of the v8 let's it hang in gear quite well, and the allowable band of power is cool.
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yep i left those wires long and tucked them away for emergencies.Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER View PostWoo-hoo!
While you're here, is that labled overdrive wire (blue/yellow stripe) still there thats coming from the ECU?
If it is, connect it to the yellow/green stripe wire in the blue plug thats under the gear shift surround. This will get the overdrive working (electrically)
There should be another wire there that I labled, (blue/white stripe) this is the ECT wire. Apply 12v to it to put the transmission in 'power' mode.
ill try that tomorrow if i have some time. hopefully that will give me some gears instead of first.
i found a shift solenoind kit for that box in usa - $550 hehehehehe - cheaper to buy a whole lexus.
thanks again vince
im not the worlds best sparky
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Woo-hoo!
While you're here, is that labled overdrive wire (blue/yellow stripe) still there thats coming from the ECU?
If it is, connect it to the yellow/green stripe wire in the blue plug thats under the gear shift surround. This will get the overdrive working (electrically)
There should be another wire there that I labled, (blue/white stripe) this is the ECT wire. Apply 12v to it to put the transmission in 'power' mode.
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update
the tps fault is dodgy wiring - if i wiggle the wires it goes from smooth to really rough and cuts out so its the plug or a broken wire - the tps is new.
cured 21 and 28 faults by spraying the connecter plugs - it was ####ing down on friday and they were wet. used some big heat shrink tube to seal the feckers.
the 13 fault looks like the drivers cam position sensor - they both tested ok at around 1200 ohms 2 weeks ago but the drivers side one is now dead.
maf sensor and 2 cam sensors ordered today so hopefully no fault codes next week
all i need now is some gears and ill be able to play in it.
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Nice pics - looks
Have you thought about doing the clock as well to match?
I'd buy a modded clock if there was one out there as the standard one is pretty rank...
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