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  • Trouble starting after head swap....

    Hi folks,

    Been a while since i've been on and it looks like nothings changed.

    My truck has been running faultlessly till recently when it started running on steam. Took the head off and the cracks were very visible. Having now done the swap with a brand new head, cam, valves etc..., i've almost finished hooking everything up. I've connected enough stuff though to be able to start it as i wanted to make sure it's playing ball.

    Did EGR removal as well. Closed up and welded the factory exhaust side plate and made a new one for the inlet. Plugged the solenoid back into the connector just in case it decided to throw a CEL.

    Suffice to say it won't start. Checked the timing belt / alignment several times and it looks bang on. All the marks align and the belt hasn't done much mileage so used that.

    Checked for fuel and there doesn't seem to be any fuel getting to the injectors. I drove the truck into my garage in the first place so no idea why i don't have any fuel at the moment and i haven't messed about with anything pump wise. I'm going to remove the 4 injector feed pipes from the back of the pump to see if there is any fuel coming out of the pump but i have to say at this time i don't hold much faith.

    If the pump is working correctly am i right in saying the fuel will be squirting out the back of the pump from each of the fuel outlets.

    If it isn't squirting fuel any ideas as to what might be going wrong. I've checked the fuel filter priming knob and that goes very hard when the filter is full so as far as i can tell there is fuel up to the filter.

    Would incorrect timing/pulley alignment stop it pumping fuel? All the electrical connectors are on the pump, i don't think i've left anything out.

    Are there any other checks i can do?

    Your help is much appreciated because i am well and truly stumped!
    Now it's time to play!

  • #2
    Give this a try first ...
    Starting at Primer/Fuel filter make sure ya have diesel (remove IP feed pipe) n prime ya should have fuel, crack injectors at the pump (one at a time) while somebody turn engine over (making sure fuel is visible) lock up n move on to each one in turn.
    Once ya sure fuel is at this point, move to Injectors n do the same (one at a time) assuming ya have fuel here !
    Proceed to normal starting... checking that Glow plug light illuminates, if at this stage ya still have no start.

    Check all electrical connections removed in Head changeover.
    Good Luck

    12+ Years of Surfs ..... n Faultless to a "T" is my Yota !!
    Buncefield Burner

    Comment


    • #3
      Might be worth checking the 80 amp glow plug fuse in the fuse box under the bonnet as well

      Comment


      • #4
        Glow plug light working ok, comes on goes off. Can hear the relay going.

        I've checked to see if there is fuel from the filter to the pump, slacked off the banjo bolt, pressed the priming button on the filter and there is fuel getting there. In the morning i will try what you've suggested Diezel. I'll report back and let you know how i get on.

        I'm stumped that's for sure. I tried some easy start and the engine wants to go, it fires, runs briefly whilst still turning over on the key.

        I have all the timing marks aligned, have checked them several times. I know when the Camshaft is at TDC (mark at the top), pistons 1 and 4 are at TDC, the inlet valve lobe at the front of the engine is down and to the right, both exhaust and inlet lobes at the very back are up so both valves are shut.

        When both the crank and pump pulley marks are aligned the camshaft timing mark is right on TDC. I've turned the engine over many times by hand. When the crank has gone round once and back to it's mark where the needle is the fuel pump mark and the camshaft marks are 180deg out, another revolution of the crank brings them back into line and they are all right on their marks so i'm sure thei timing is spot on.

        I didn't mess with the pump or take any of the connectors off so i find it all a bit odd that it's stopped working. I left the connectors and vacuum pipes on the solenoids for the small butterfly actuator so all i had was a single vacuum pipe to put back on there. I completely removed the EGR valve and blanked off the exhaust manifold and inlet manifold where the EGR exhaust tube and valve bolt on. I connected the EGR solenoid back up so i don't get a CEL.

        Apart from what you have suggested i can't think what else to do unless it is electrical and a valve in the pump is not opening for some reason. I must check if there is a fuse for the injector pump.

        Cheers for that
        Now it's time to play!

        Comment


        • #5
          More woes......

          Well.....I've established there is fuel now coming from the pump and up as far as where the fuel pipe bolts onto the injector, so that's great. The pump isn't knackered which is awesome news.

          However, the fuel return rail that's bolted onto the injectors has a broken pipe because on trying to remove it to get the injectors out it turned with the nut for whatever reason and the pipe broke right where it goes into the olive so i need a fuel return rail.

          Does anyone have one they could ship out yesterday by winged angels or next day delivery would be good. And how much. PM me if you prefer.

          I can pay by paypal, bank transfer, whatever you like.

          Cheers

          ETA: Just got one from Roughtrax, should be with me tomorrow, fingers crossed.
          Last edited by ROMEROTECH; 9 December 2013, 18:18.
          Now it's time to play!

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by ROMEROTECH View Post
            Glow plug light working ok, comes on goes off. Can hear the relay going.:
            Yeah, mine is doing that too, fuse still blown though, for the sake of lifting the lid of the fuse box, it's worth checking. If only to be able to rule it out

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            • #7
              I did that already. All the fuses are fine. I'll get the leakage pipe on tomorrow and see what happens. Fingers crossed.
              Now it's time to play!

              Comment


              • #8
                You can get a new return pipe from RT for 30 od quid
                Careful when you re tighten as you could easily break it again..

                Comment


                • #9
                  I bought the pipe from RT and some new injector washers/gaskets from there too, unfortunately DPD delayed my delivery and it's coming tomorrow now.

                  I did notice that the timing mark on the back of the pump looks pretty high and well above the flat plane on the back of the pump it's meant to be aligned with, much higher that what i've read should it should be set from the factory.

                  It might have moved whilst turning the crank if the bolts were a bit loose, would that stop it from starting. I also need to make sure the fuel pipes are going to the right injectors, i read it's easy to get the back two the wrong way so i'll check that too.

                  Tomorrow is another day.
                  Now it's time to play!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    If the timing marks on the fuel pump body aren't lining up properly, then the timing is out, so it won't start or will be really difficult to start and sound rough as well as being down on power.

                    Try this link for help with the positioning of the injector pipes

                    http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/fuelpump.htm

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Many thanks for the link, it's going to come in handy
                      Now it's time to play!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        This is the stage i am at....

                        The injectors have new seals, new leakeage pipe, and everything is bolted on. Batteries are fully charged, and i have checked that the glow plugs are working by pulling them one at at time, attaching one to the bus bar, earth out the body and turn the ignition to on. First click of the key and the light goes on and of, do it again and leave the ignition on and the plug starts to glow red hot.

                        The engine will start and run whilst the ignition key is turned all the way to engage the starter to turn the engine over, as soon as you let the key go it cuts out. It will do that a few times, and then doesn't start again till it's left for a few mins and then i go again.

                        While it is running on the key turning the engine over it smokes like a goodun. Lots and lots of dark smelly diesel smoke. I've checked all the fuses, i'm not getting an electrical issue as far as i can tell, no CEL, and no fuel leaks.

                        What the hell i am missing, have i not done, or done wrong?

                        I'm now thinking i need to get someone round that knows exactly what they are doing with this because i am now very desperate to get the truck sorted as i am meant to be going away to Scotland.

                        Any more thoughts on this, and does anyone know a good diesel man in Northampton?

                        P.S. RebelV8...... The link you gave me for the fuel pipe layout doesn't look the same as what it's showing in the workshop engine manual. Here's a pic of what's in the manual and exactly how mine is plumbed in....

                        Last edited by ROMEROTECH; 11 December 2013, 20:24.
                        Now it's time to play!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Sorry, my bad. The link I posted is for a 2.4, just noticed your's is a 3.0. I didn't know they were connected differently, learning all the time, lol

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            No problem

                            Short of replacing the ECU i have no idea now what else to look at. I've done a lot of reading, looked on many sites and tried lots of solutions still to no avail.

                            Now i am back to.....Does anyone know a good mobile diesel specialist in Northampton or is there a diesel specialist on the forum that will come out to me in Northampton?
                            Now it's time to play!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              So it cranks and starts and runs with the ignition key in the starting position but cuts out when the key is released to the normal running condition?
                              Or have I read it all wrong?
                              Eat.Sleep.Surf.Repeat.

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