Gen 3 3ltr Help needed with air in coolant, radiator dumps fluid in bottle..

[S14A-J]

There is information on here about how to check the viscous coupling but for such an easy job you might as well refresh the fluid anyway.

As above you could improve the existing gauge but I went aftermarket simply because it has a warning alarm when it gets too hot. When mine overheated I only looked at the gauges because it felt down on power. It was already past the end of the gauge and had been roasting for some time.

Thanks for the heads up of the fan. Mine runs cool and has never got moderately hot let alone overheated.
The fan speeds up when it needs to.
The thing is i do have a full selection of Rc silicon oil viscosities though as i run a Rc model shop, so if you have a link for the fluid change guide i would have a go.

[Jameswallace]

There is information on here about how to check the viscous coupling but for such an easy job you might as well refresh the fluid anyway.

As above you could improve the existing gauge but I went aftermarket simply because it has a warning alarm when it gets too hot. When mine overheated I only looked at the gauges because it felt down on power. It was already past the end of the gauge and had been roasting for some time.

You can tell if the fans doing its job easy. If it roars it works. Mine trys to suck the cowling of the rad it sucks so much air

You can adjust the temp the fan kicks in while your doing the oil, mine kicks in 60 degrees roughly. The needle used to rise a tad if i went uphill with heavy foot. Now refuses to budge however hard i push it. Im now cooling properly!

[Jameswallace]

Ps how much is 75cl of 5000 oil? (Thats what i used)

Its very simple to do
Unbolt from water pump, remove cowling, wiggle out, remove the m6 phillips bolts (get some star drive ones to replace) mark 2 lines so you can get it matched up together later, then seperate the 2 halves. If its not been apart before itll be difficult to split..
Then clean out the oul with ultra clean rag

DO NOT disturb the sealing ring.

I put a whole small bottle in mine after adjusting the kick in temp
While your there, heat the part with the moving bits up, and youll ser how it work. Clever stuff

[S14A-J]

Ok thanks for the info, my fan does indeed roar and the need will never rise above the half way point, normally about half an hour below half way point and then dead on half way in extreme conditions.

[S14A-J]

Ps how much is 75cl of 5000 oil? (Thats what i used)

That would be rc shock absorber oil and its between 3.99 and 7.99 for different types/brands.

Search for oil or silicon on;
Hobbystores. Co. Uk

[Jameswallace]

Edited above post
Sounds like yours has been adjusted already?
Does it not roar when cold?

[S14A-J]

Edited above post
Sounds like yours has been adjusted already?
Does it not roar when cold?

Sorry, er yes mine roars when you first start it and also when its very hot... Otherwise relatively quiet

[Rob5464]

You can adjust the temp the fan kicks in while your doing the oil, mine kicks in 60 degrees roughly. The needle used to rise a tad if i went uphill with heavy foot. Now refuses to budge however hard i push it. Im now cooling properly!

I am going to adjust mine as well at a later date when I up the power. How do you do it exactly? nothing caught my eye when I was doing it.

For splitting the fan you will need an impact screwdriver or you will just round the heads off. I bought a draper one for very little money.

Also the O ring seal is not all that great. Mine had even expanded so much it was too big to go back in. I cut a bit out of it so it fit again then used tigerseal to guarantee no oil will escape.

I also replaced the screws with bolts just incase it needs to come off again.

[Jameswallace]

Buy a decemt screw driver. Ie teng

Theres two screws holding the gubnins in on of the halfs, Im pretty certain you adjust it clockwise as you look at it. But to be certain i would heat it underneath with a eat gun. You can watch it do its magic then. And be clear

[Ploddit]

Those of you saying your gauges don't move be aware the dead zone on All OE gauges it's even written on the gauge in Japanese.

Once I did the resistor mod I was shocked and delighted as it moved around a lot. Air con on, went up about an eighth, up a long hill same, upside is as its moving about I watched it alot more then before when it sat in the same place all the time.
Also I was pleased as just before the red zone I could hear the fan engaging I put 10000 in it.

If the OE gauge is showing any heat increase at all I'd start to be worried. Even if you don't want to do the mod the how to on the Aussie surf site tells you all about the ornamental OE gauge readings. I am on tablet so it's too long to find it to link it.

[NiftyNev]

Link to gauge mod -

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/v...ic.php?t=14717

Nev.

[S14A-J]

Those of you saying your gauges don't move be aware the dead zone on All OE gauges it's even written on the gauge in Japanese.

Once I did the resistor mod I was shocked and delighted as it moved around a lot. Air con on, went up about an eighth, up a long hill same, upside is as its moving about I watched it alot more then before when it sat in the same place all the time.
Also I was pleased as just before the red zone I could hear the fan engaging I put 10000 in it.

If the OE gauge is showing any heat increase at all I'd start to be worried. Even if you don't want to do the mod the how to on the Aussie surf site tells you all about the ornamental OE gauge readings. I am on tablet so it's too long to find it to link it.

I have taken the good advice and just ordered a nice 60mm apexi water temp gauge and a 38mm hose adapter to go on the top rad hose. This and a new double din Alpine stereo is going in my surf when i get it back.... Currently in pieces with TonyN having the head replaced

[tashtego]

There seems to be no reason why this has happened..I have a record of every service this car has had since new in japan and all work in uk, This car was imported and owned by the service manager at a main dealer in north london. Serviced every 6000 kilometers without fail and doted on. Ive had it two years and serviced it three times and really looked after it aswell, its only done 82,000 miles in total and its never even been off road .

Just goes to show no matter how well you look after em theres always a little surprise around the corner

It's a very good point...I'm starting to think it's something to do specifically with Surfs. Around here there are plenty pick-ups with the 1KZ - TE, assembled in South Africa. Before the new shape D4D pickups appeared (around 2005?), they were "the" truck to have. Farmers drive them up and down rutted tea estates and tobacco plantations, they boot the hell out of them on hot and dusty highways, loaded like you wouldn't believe...and to be honest, they service them very little. I've seen a few which only have brownish looking water in their rads! And yet these heads don't go, the buggers clock up crazy mileages with little or no maintenance. Our Surfs are pampered with expensive coolants, all sort of expensive oils etc...and yet so many of the 3.0 ones are now cracking heads too.
Anybody can explain this?
Cheers

[S14A-J]

Update, ive sent the 60mm apexi gauge back because it was a poor quality fake when i received it (ebay lol). I have done an interesting mod with the standard lcd clock in the dash, i have swapped the clock out for a digital lcd water temp and battery monitor in green. Nice standard factory look but it is a normal clock which doubles as a battery voltage gauge / water temperature guage when you press the mode button. If anyone is interested i will put up a rough build thread

[S14A-J]

This is the guage i have used, it fits neatly inside the original casing or the digi clock and uses the origial connection on the back of the clock. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-In-1-LED...item5d3d605f79