Won't idle or run properly.

[KERRSURF]

thanks Vince, I'll give that a go tomorrow night, Andy, bring yer meter mate

[KERRSURF]

Update, got the injectors back from a proper cleaning and re-fitted. The truck started first crank (I even forgot to fit the power cable to the glowplug bar and it still started very easily) and it ticked over spot on, bit of smoke from exhaust but revved fine and returned to idle no bother.

Took it for a wee run round the block a couple of times and when I went to turn back into the drive it stopped. Started again after a couple of attempts and I'm back to square one. It seems to start fine and run from cold but as soon as the temp is up the rev counter wavers and it cuts out.

[charvell]

Update, got the injectors back from a proper cleaning and re-fitted. The truck started first crank (I even forgot to fit the power cable to the glowplug bar and it still started very easily) and it ticked over spot on, bit of smoke from exhaust but revved fine and returned to idle no bother.

Took it for a wee run round the block a couple of times and when I went to turn back into the drive it stopped. Started again after a couple of attempts and I'm back to square one. It seems to start fine and run from cold but as soon as the temp is up the rev counter wavers and it cuts out.

havent read the whole thread mate, but it sounds like the ecu, i had a problem with a 2ltr GTi montego same thing, the ecu was interpriting the wrong engine temp and giveing it too much fuelor not enough cant remember which. Change the unit over and all was well. i could however be talking complete and utter shite, so i will shut up and go back to my M&M's

[BUSHWHACKER]

Coolant sensor?

No idea where it is on a 3.0 but it's the sensor under the inlet manifold on the 2.4.

[KERRSURF]

I swapped the ECU for one from a running truck, no difference.

Could the coolant temp cause this type of problem? The wavering rev counter and the cutting out?

[BUSHWHACKER]

I swapped the ECU for one from a running truck, no difference.

Could the coolant temp cause this type of problem? The wavering rev counter and the cutting out?

The coolant sensor tells the ECU what temperature the engine is, if it's not working, the ECU will think the engine is still cold, even though you have just driven it, send the wrong signal to the fuel pump.

Does the exhaust smell of diesel?

[KERRSURF]

I'll check tomorrow about the smell. it is a bit smokier than it used to be but it seemed to clear as it got up to temp.

[KERRSURF]

Well the truck went onto Cockburns auto electricians today and they haven't found anything yet.
One bloke seems to think the valve timing could be out, would it start and run, and drive as well as it did if this was the case? would this cause it to shut down and make it difficult to start?
If the valve timing is out will any damage have been caused?

[yoshie]

Well the truck went onto Cockburns auto electricians today and they haven't found anything yet.
One bloke seems to think the valve timing could be out, would it start and run, and drive as well as it did if this was the case? would this cause it to shut down and make it difficult to start?
If the valve timing is out will any damage have been caused?

How can the valve timing be out?

Did you not get the message to call me?

Make sure you tell them about Vince's comment about coolant sensor

[soramad]

having never had to delve into the surf electrics yet, so i am probably talking rubbish but is there a seperate fuel control ecu or is everything controlled from a ecu central unit. The reason i say this is because the symptoms being described on this thread is similar to the problems caused on the soarer by a faulty fuel ecu, car runs starts , runs ok but when up to temp cuts out, this is due to the ecu running the fuel pump at 12 v to get max pressure but when correct temp is reached it reduces the voltage and consiquently the pressure/tickover via main ecu, however the faulty ecu reduces the voltage to much so fuel starvation and engine dies, the way to prove this is to run the pump at 12v and see if it runs ok after reaching temp, if so, new ecu required, if it does work like this do not run pump continuously at 12v as it will eventually burn out. like I said i know nothing of surf electrics so bear with me.

[yoshie]

It's a mechanical pump on the Surf mate.

[BUSHWHACKER]

having never had to delve into the surf electrics yet, so i am probably talking rubbish but is there a seperate fuel control ecu or is everything controlled from a ecu central unit. The reason i say this is because the symptoms being described on this thread is similar to the problems caused on the soarer by a faulty fuel ecu, car runs starts , runs ok but when up to temp cuts out, this is due to the ecu running the fuel pump at 12 v to get max pressure but when correct temp is reached it reduces the voltage and consiquently the pressure/tickover via main ecu, however the faulty ecu reduces the voltage to much so fuel starvation and engine dies, the way to prove this is to run the pump at 12v and see if it runs ok after reaching temp, if so, new ecu required, if it does work like this do not run pump continuously at 12v as it will eventually burn out. like I said i know nothing of surf electrics so bear with me.

Please, stop believing everything you read on that Soarer website!

The Lexus V8 fuel pump only runs at reduced voltage at idle, the rest of the time it's at 12volts. Fuel pressure is maintained by the regulator on the fuel rail and the pulses are smoothed out by the dampner.
The fuel system will operate perfectly well without the pump ECU, it's more trouble than it's worth to be honest, typical over engineering by Toyota again!
If it cuts out when normal operating temp is reached, it'll be the EFI coolant sensor thats faulty, putting the main ECU into limp mode.
Fuel starvation will activate the engine check light as it will be picked up by the knock sensors.

[KERRSURF]

How can the valve timing be out?

Did you not get the message to call me?

Make sure you tell them about Vince's comment about coolant sensor

Never got the message mate, you do have a habit of sending them to my house phone however.
I'll called them today to tell them that when the ingnition key is cranked and the truck starts if you hold the key then the revs build and build, I tried to replicate this on Andy's truck and it didn't happen, it just spun the starter, perhaps a problem with ignition barrel?

[TonyN]

Have you tried swapping the spill control valve yet? (sorry if you have, its been awhile since read all this thread...) when it won't start there is no fuel leaving the pump right?

Its got to be electrical, it wouldn't run as well as it does otherwise, something is warming up and a connection or iffy wire is going open circuit, I'm sure.

Have you binned any immobilser it has? Suspect any plug you unplugged doing the head.

[KERRSURF]

Have you tried swapping the spill control valve yet? (sorry if you have, its been awhile since read all this thread...) when it won't start there is no fuel leaving the pump right?

Its got to be electrical, it wouldn't run as well as it does otherwise, something is warming up and a connection or iffy wire is going open circuit, I'm sure.

Have you binned any immobilser it has? Suspect any plug you unplugged doing the head.

I swapped the whole pump out Tony, so control valve was included in this.
The immobiliser has been tested and everything is ok.
I think the ignition circuit is to blame because of the revving if key is held in start position but no throttle applied or perhaps the throttle control sensor.