30td low oil pressure

[skinflint]

Hi All


I have a kzn130 auto surf and i am suffering with low oil pressure at tickover it hardly regesters on the guage but it dose pick up when i rev to the low end of normal but then i suffer with top end clatter now i am not using any oil or water and she drives ok. i am thinking of reshiming the head hopefully this will stop the top end clatter .
Anybody got any idea's on the oil prob ? dose the surf suffer with a week oil pump? .

Dom

[blackpoolsparks]

old oil in the system can do this as it looses its properties. Do and oil change and see the difference.
BTW - in idle it does sit down at the low end of the gauge

[Hazzo]

I flushed mine at the last change as it seemed low too, now on the run up to operating temperature the pressure is at the half way mark, once hot it settles to the first block. H

[stormforce]

when i lost oil pressure after a salisbury outing and blew my turbo.The oil pressure on mine sits at the first line or just under once up to temp.I'm not sure if i need to drop the sump tho as the oil pump or filter in the sump may be getting blocked restricting the oil getting up to the top and thats what may be causing the top end rattle.It may be the injectors aswell tho but until i can get it in the workshop and stripped to find out whats going on

[skinflint]

oil change

Hi All


I have a kzn130 auto surf and i am suffering with low oil pressure at tickover it hardly regesters on the guage but it dose pick up when i rev to the low end of normal but then i suffer with top end clatter now i am not using any oil or water and she drives ok. i am thinking of reshiming the head hopefully this will stop the top end clatter .
Anybody got any idea's on the oil prob ? dose the surf suffer with a week oil pump? .

Dom

i had the oil flushed/ changed a few weeks ago and that made the top end rattel worse so i ended up putting a can of wynns oil treatmant in it that seamed to shut it up a bit ! dont get me wrong my surf drives ok will get to 80 no prob when hot @1500 the guage is on the line between low - norm but the topend rattle get very loud when you increase rev,s past 2500 hence i assume the shims want doing she is reading 170K starts first go uses no oil/water and no smoke just rattles!!!!

Dom

[axelgs1]

low oil reading

Hi,

As I understand it the oil pressure comes up to haf way when started from cold and under revs goes just above halfway or a little more. When hot and driving at 20, 30, 40, 50, and above will stay at about halfway or just above. When hot on tick over it drops down to about 1/4. This is normal.

Andy

[Paul1566]

Mine reads the same as axelgs1
Deffo went up after oil and filter change.
Before that with the well used oil pressuer was lower

[axelgs1]

Oil pressure

Exactly Paul. Somewhere on this site there is a diagram picture which shows the correct readings. Half way when starting from cold on tick over, 1/4 when warm on tick over etc.

[puddlesurfer]

Hi Guy's,

My oil pressure seemed to drop off today after driving for about an hour, I'm going to do an oil change soon - under the bonnet there is a Sticker in Japanese (I can't read Japanese) but it does say 10-30w which i'm guessing is the viscosity of oil - will it do any harm to use 10-40w? it'll boost the pressure a bit. I'd rather have that extra bit of protection!

[axelgs1]

Low oil pressure

Change the oil filter and oil pressure will come back up for a month or so then resort back to half or slightly above when driving and at a quarter when idling. This is normal
Read Jiml's good article
axe

Did you ever wonder which to buy 15W40 or 10W40 or synthetic or not


Viscosity
This is simply the most important feature of any lubricating oil. It can be defined as a fluid's resistance to flow. As the temperature of an oil increases its viscosity decreases.
If an oil is to thin the lubricant film will break down under conditions of high stress. This allows metal to contact metal causing increases in friction, component damage and ultimately equipment failure. If the viscosity of the oil is too high then it is physically unable to squeeze between two metal surfaces.

The Society of Automotive Engineers Viscosity Classification
The terms SAE 10W-30 and SAE 15W-40 are widely used. How many people actually understand what these terms mean?
Firstly any viscosity grade should be proceeded by the initials SAE. This stands for the Society of Automotive Engineers and indicated that the following viscosity classification refers to their definitions. It should be noted that SAE is not a performance category it only refers to the viscosity of the oil. When comparing oils the reader should not only compare the SAE viscosity grades of two oils but also the engine performance classifications in order to be able to fully compare performance.

Let us consider the following: SAE 15W-40.
The fact that this classification has two parts; the 15W and the 40 indicates that the oil is a multigrade. The first number with the suffix 'W' indicates the oil's performance at low temperature. In fact the 'W' stands for winter. The lower the 'W' number the lower the viscosity of the oil. Therefore an SAE 5W oil is a lower viscosity oil than an SAE 10W oil.

The number after the W, in the above case '40'; gives a measure of the oil's viscosity at high temperature. Again the lower the number the thinner the oil is at high temperature. So an SAE 30 is a thinner, or less viscous, oil than an SAE 40.

A multigrade oil is an oil that has two parts such as SAE 15W-40, or 20W-50. A monograde oil only has one part, such as SAE 30, or SAE 40.

What is better a SAE 10W-40 or an SAE 15W-40?
Using the simple rules above it is clear to see that both of these oils have a similar high temperature viscosity as indicated by the '40'. However the 10W-40 is a thinner oil than the SAE 15W-40 at cold temperatures. Simply apply the rule that the lower the 'W'; number the thinner the oil. The SAE 10W is lower than the SAE 15W and hence is a thinner oil. Therefore in cold temperatures we can state that the SAE 10W-40 oil is better than the SAE 15W-40 oil. In winter the end user may experience a benefit by moving from an SAE 15W-40 oil to an SAE 10W-40 oil.

Can I use an SAE 10W-30 in summer
During summer when ambient temperatures are high the oil will tend to be thinner so a more viscous oil should be preferred. The SAE 10W-30 is a thin oil so generally speaking either an SAE 10W-40 or SAE 15W-40, both more viscous, could offer better engine protection. In summer is an SAE 10W type oil required? Probably not so the SAE 15W-40 would be the best recommendation. As a first step the manufacturer's recommendations should be followed.
In winter the situation is reversed and the SAE 10W-30 oil or the SAE 10W-40 should be favoured.

Mineral Oils Versus Synthetic Oils
There is much discussion about mineral oils versus synthetic oils and the relative performance of each type. It is clear that synthetic oils offer certain advantages over mineral oils in terms of low temperature performance, and high temperature oxidation stability but that is not the whole story. Synthetic oils are very expensive and properly formulated mineral oils are more than suitable for most engine applications. A synthetic oil can be considered for very cold temperatures, or for application that may need an outstanding level of oxidation protection but it should be remembered there is a significant cost. The question should always be asked: ‘Can I use a properly formulated mineral oil for this application?'


I got this from a Chevron site (and so that they dont sue let me say Chevron Oils are marvellous and we all love Chevron Oils).
Makes me laugh knowing the cheaper 10W40 stuff was better in the cold months

[Surfer Ross]

Generally speaking, you want the two numbers to be as close to each other as possible whilst bearing in mind the temperature range the vehicle will be operating in. I would say that a 15W oil is verging on being dangerously thick at start up in our winter climate. I've always used 5W-40 fully synth or 10W-40 semi synth in my Jap diesels. I exclusively use 10W-40 Semi Synth these days.

Another massive misconception is that synthetic oil is always better than mineral or semi-synth, absolutely not true.

This link: http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf should provide some very enlightening reading. Valvoline 10W-40 semi-synth and other so called "lesser brands" making the likes of Mobil 1 fully synth look like they're only good for bike chains.

[wishbone]

I've always used 15-40 but it does sound a bit clattery in the winter. Toyota say it's good down to -12 degrees. Think I'll try 10-40 on the next oil change.

Rob.

[KERRSURF]

The pressure gauges on Surfs are about as accurate as the temp gauges!

Just do yer oil changes when needed, check for leaks and pay as much attention to the engine bay as you do the rest of truck and all should be good.

10-40 for me.