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Bump,
What should be left when the needle is pulled off the face, just a metal spindle ??
Anyone, pretty please.
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Thanks for all the help so far folks, it is appreciated.
Finally had a go at the speedo today, I had to, after I poked at the needle through the cam belt warning hole it fell off!
It would appear that at sometime in it's life the needle has broken and been repaired, probably during the face change.
When the needle was retrieved from the bottom of the dials it looks as if the bit that pushes onto the spindle has come adrift from the needle centre, and then been glued back on to the needle.
If the needle was "as new and unbroken" and pulled off the speedo spindle what should remain on the speedo, just a metal spindle? can anyone remember?
Mine had a black plastic sleeve left on the spindle with what you would call a small hammer head on top ( with some old glue left on), I did try to pull it off but it was quite firm and I didn't want to damage anything without checking up first.
Also, whilst it was apart I fitted the needle stop back in properly. I did notice though, that when the stop was removed, the needle settled at the "H" on MPH, quite a bit lower than 0 on the speedo so hopefully resetting it to 0 should cure the problems, if it's repairable.
Thanks for the help so far.
Rod
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then it's a 10mm socket on the bottom right of lower dash. Phillips screws, 1 on the bottom left, 3 along the top of the lower dash panel. Unclip the bonnet release and fuel flap cables, or leave the lower dash laying in the footwell with them still attached.
You'll need to unplug the speaker aswell if you're taking it right out.
Remove the small ignition surround panel, it just pulls off.
Remove the lower dash on the passenger side. 10mm socket, bottom left. Phillips on bottom right, Three phillips inside the top of the glovebox. Don't forget the speaker again.
The centre lower dash section may need to come out or may be ok, it supposed to have a clip either side which push in/pull out, they've normally got lost or broken by now though. But take them out and tilt the panel forwards, and slide it out by the gear shifter.
The radio surround panel should now be free, pull this off towards the back of the truck, probably have to work it off from the bottom first. It's quite a tight fit.
If it's getting stuck near the top it may be the heater face panel needs to come off first, i can't remember. If so take the black knobs off the sliders and set the sliders central, then gently prise just the face panel off.
Should now be able to see one screw behind where the heater face panel was, one behind the steering wheel on the left, one behind the steering wheel to the right, and one far right, all along the bottom of the next panel up. There's also two screws above the clocks for this panel. Then gently prise the panel off, theres a few clips holding this panel too, but it should come free without too much trouble. Might help to tilt the steering wheel as low as it'll go at this point.
Now you should be able to see the four screws holding the unit containing the clocks themselves. Two above two below IIRC. Undo these and it slides out. At some point you'll have to reach behind and unplug the wiring from the back of the unit.
not too difficult, be glad you got an electric speedo, not the cable driven one(... er... you do don't you?
)
Not as complicated as it sounds really, honest guv.
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is it a 2nd gen or 3rd gen? (2nd gen is 89-95 with the drop down tailgate, 3rd gen is 96, or thereabouts, onwards with the lift up tailgate)
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Originally posted by MattF View Post

Take the needle off and reposition it. Somebody has probably fitted a new face on it and made a cockup when refitting the needle. Is the pin for the needle to rest on, at 0, there or missing?
Right, gonna have a look at this at the w/end. To save me an hour or so trying to fine all the relevant fixings can someone give me an idea of where the dash / speedo fixings are please.
You know what it's like, a ten minute job takes 2 hours because you've spent ages trying to find that one last mounting that was tucked behind something.
Thanks for all the help so far and thanks in advance for this, it's nice to find a forum where newcomers aren't treated like outcasts (took the p**s out of maybe, but not like outcasts)
Rod
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Ok, thanks. I'll post a thread to see what's about and who's got what. yours
Rod
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if you don't have any luck at the weekend then i should have one but till i get to collect the truck i'm not sure the condition
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I would suggest asking Stormy, Lord Lucan or the other breakers here.Originally posted by rodp View PostIf anyone knows to a good rear bumper at sensible money let me know, this one's rusty and pitted in places.
Trev
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Bump !If anyone knows to a good rear bumper at sensible money let me know, this one's rusty and pitted in places.
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Looks like the pin is there at 0 mph but never thought to check the needle with ign on. Been busy this w/end but still managed to do the tail gate window, modded the motor drive wheel (slightly differently to the article on here) and while at it cleaned and lubed all the rack with spray ptfe grease and the runners with silicone, it's great now and makes all the difference being able to get in the back at last.
The back window has been covered with silver foil vinyl that's bubbled so that's got to come off, that's gonna be a right pain without scratching the heated window. Also got to look at the arial mast, or the hole in the mounting where it should be to be more precise.
If anyone knows to a good rear bumper at sensible money let me know, this one's rusty and pitted in places.
Thanks for all the help and info so far
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Switch the ignition on first.Originally posted by RodLeach View Post
Hey Rod!
Speedo is electronic on all but the early models mate.
It may either be a sensor.. Wouldn't know which one im afraid. Or the needles been piŁŁed around.
Correcting the needle is a simple but fiddley job.
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