Front diff leaking oil !!!!!

[Mart]

Can anyone explain this....

went to the Reading event on Sunday. Good fun lots of mud and crap everywhere. Jet washed the beast and sorted rear brakes. Whilst I was in the mood I jacked up all four wheels to rotate tyres and which went well.

Whilst the beast was in the air I noticed that the front drivers side diff / shaft seal was leaking. Definitely only just started too cause the jet wash was the day before.

My question is why ???????? I jacked the front on the cross member and didn't touch the diff.

I will endeavour to take pics and notes whilst doing the work this Sat and I'll post them on here for everyone to see. Does Kio want me to send them via a PM to him for inclusion on the site or can he just cut them from a normal submission?


Any tips advice would be welcome before Sat.

Cheers

[marky]

dont think you can pm pics mate.
is oil coming out the diff where the drives shafts come from

[Mart]

dont think you can pm pics mate.
is oil coming out the diff where the drives shafts come from

yes. drivers side only but thats the spot alright.

been looking for a workshop manual and it seems that the KZN, VZN, YN and LN models share the same drive train according to the Toyota exploded print off for the front diff I have. what do you think ? Any recommendations ?

cheers

[TonyN]

check your front diff breather isn't blocked, apart from that it'll be the seal.

[Scubasurf]

yes. drivers side only but thats the spot alright.

been looking for a workshop manual and it seems that the KZN, VZN, YN and LN models share the same drive train according to the Toyota exploded print off for the front diff I have. what do you think ? Any recommendations ?

cheers

It sounds like the oil seals gone. it's not to bad to change and you can do it with the diff in the motor but is a bit tight.

tip 1.you must take off the front hub to give yourself room to drop the drive shaft.

tip 2. mark up the drive shaft the day before with some white paint or the like other wise you will lose your marks.

I got a pdf of how to do it. if you want a copy, pm your email address.

[TonyN]

tip 1.you must take off the front hub to give yourself room to drop the drive shaft.

If you undo the anti-roll bar, you can wiggle the shaft out without disturbing to the front suspention. Don't even need to jack the truck up.

[Rob]

Err, just had all the skid plates off today for a good cleaning after Pingewood....... my front diff also seems to be leaking.....from both sides. Hmm, the transfer case is leaking too, from where the rear driveshaft exits. I pretty sure both of these leaks have started since last Sunday.

Where is the breather on the front diff - I can't see it.
Does the transfer case have a breather too? If so, where?

And I thought I was gonna have a relaxing weekend!

[Mart]

front diff oil seal repalced - here's how

Well I guess there many ways to skin that cat...here's mine. With a few extra optional removals!!!! Opps!

1) Undo all drive flanges (left, right and drive from rear). No probs just undo bolts and knock out the grooved and tappered bolts from left and right flanges

2) Disconnect two elect plugs back and front and suction pipes. Just pull off and are already colour coded to tubing.

3) Undo all mounting bolts from front diff. Passenger side extension shaft, rear above diff (need ring spanner) and main mount bolt at front. Recommend unbolting mounting from sub-frame and not diff from rubber mountings.

Note: be careful, as diff is heavy!!!!

4) Move diff to work bench and clean off all the dirt that will fall inside!!!

Here's the optional part....

5) Without knowing that the shorter shaft just prises out.....remove diff cover and try to figure out how it all comes apart for two hours.

6) Be pleased that no teeth missing or damage evident inside!! Now replace cover ensuring all crap removed from seal area and new sealant in place and torque up (45ftlbs ish. only an oil seal so no pressure!!?!)

7) Prise off short shaft using two screwdrivers driven evenly between flange and diff body. Removed clean and put aside. Inspect spring-loaded cir-clip thingy to ensure its ok?

8) Remove old seal being careful not to damage surrounding area and clean out crap there will be lots!!!

9) Tap in new seal with punches (or use a large metal ring to go over seal helps to align evenly)

10) Fill diff with oil to ensure no leaks approx 2.25ltr

11) Re-install diff back into truck and re-connect all plugs, drives, vacuum hoses as above. Torque settings are as Haynes manual otherwise just FT ( F*@&king Tight!!!)

12) undo oil level inspection plug and allow excess oil to drain. Once oil stops coming out replace plug.

13) Get in car and drive with pained expression on face hoping nothing goes bang!! Try 4x4 button and be surprised that its works!!!


If anyone wants the pics I can PM them to you. About 6 in all but job is obvious and easy once you get underneath. Everything is visible and nothing else needs removing to do work. Having said that I used a pit to work from so.....!!!

Cheers

[TonyN]

9) Tap in new seal with punches (or use a large metal ring to go over seal helps to align evenly)

Cheers

Suitable sized socket is the best way of getting seals in square.

Good job. But you can renew the seals without removing the diff But you know that now, and have had fun doing it.

[Mart]

Suitable sized socket is the best way of getting seals in square.

Good job. But you can renew the seals without removing the diff But you know that now, and have had fun doing it.

Absolutely next time I'll try it in place! Couldn't find a big enough socket at the time but that sounds like the best bet to me too. Must say though it was a Haynes (or any other kind of manual) free zone so there was a certain amount (loads!!!) of guess work involved. Don't know if a similar procedure can be used for the longer right shaft. Looked alot more complicated and the exploded drawing from Toyota parts (very helpful chaps!) shows at least three sprung circlips! Ooch!

Cheers

[TonyN]

Absolutely next time I'll try it in place! Couldn't find a big enough socket at the time but that sounds like the best bet to me too. Must say though it was a Haynes (or any other kind of manual) free zone so there was a certain amount (loads!!!) of guess work involved. Don't know if a similar procedure can be used for the longer right shaft. Looked alot more complicated and the exploded drawing from Toyota parts (very helpful chaps!) shows at least three sprung circlips! Ooch!

Cheers

Nice to hear the Dealer is helping out, good show. I THINK, (not sure, info is at home, I'm round my Mums till weds night) you need to remove the ADD cover, and disconnect something in there, to get the stub axle out, the seal is in the end of the housing and easier to get to, and easier to remove the drive shaft as you have more room.