rad leak

[mud skipper]

the reason for my comment is the built in oil cooler restricts to coolant flow through the rad, as a manual surf has no built in cooler the flow is greater = better cooling, immportant if you have a 2.4ltr
john

[mud skipper]

Glad to see you're back to normal then John!

hey, some things never change

[greeny]

bolts

those fan cowl and rad bolts look hard to get at any tips on removing them i managed too unsieze the bash plate bolts so thats one concern over with,thanks again ,greeny

[davemaxx]

if memory serves me correct, fan cowl, two 10mm bolts each side at the top, get underneath and unclip the bottom and remove, move upper fan-cowl foreward, there is then a little more room to work on the rad, the lower bolt at the drivers side on the rad or fan cowl is the only hard one to get to.
they recomend giving the whole system a flush and replacing the thermostat at the same time.
because you have just taken ownership of the veichle, if you havent got any evidence of when the last time the cam belt was changed i would strongly recomend getting the front off the cambelt cover (while the rads out and youv'e got space) - (two clips, 3 bolts) and at least give it a look over for any cracking or wear and tear, there are loads of threads on hear about changing the belt, it is realy easy and will cost £20 and only 30 minits.

i had my replacment rad from iezura, they are very good and guaranteed , they re-pressure check them befor despatch and then sign their names on parts of it in white paint, (i wouldn't paint over in black though) if it goes wrong in twelve months there is no argument who supplied it.

[greeny]

thanks dave

i will check the belt there is a sticker on the cover saying it was changed a couple of thousand miles ago next ddue change date is 200,000 miles or something lol so ill look anyway,i will pick up a stat tomorrow glad to hear someone else has used this rad supplier,let you know how it goes,thanks,greeny

[greeny]

job done

well just finished the rad job all went well until i refilled the system and the water wouldnt flow too well and the heater matrix in the rear too wouldnt flow with hot water has anyone else had problems with air it took forever to get it to circulate,i had to remove the hoses and back fill the system like an old central heating system,all seams ok now i did about 8 miles the temp gauge didnt go over half way so i think im ok,one thing i thought strange was when i got back and inspected it the top hose was pressurised and so was the bottom hose but the bottom hose was only warmish and the top was hot but the heaters are working in the front and back,can anyone shed some light on this??thanks for all your advice guys,greeny.oh i think im over concentrated on the red coolant too does this matter too much??

[BUSHWHACKER]

well just finished the rad job all went well until i refilled the system and the water wouldnt flow too well and the heater matrix in the rear too wouldnt flow with hot water has anyone else had problems with air it took forever to get it to circulate,i had to remove the hoses and back fill the system like an old central heating system,all seams ok now i did about 8 miles the temp gauge didnt go over half way so i think im ok,one thing i thought strange was when i got back and inspected it the top hose was pressurised and so was the bottom hose but the bottom hose was only warmish and the top was hot but the heaters are working in the front and back,can anyone shed some light on this??thanks for all your advice guys,greeny.oh i think im over concentrated on the red coolant too does this matter too much??

If ther top of the rad is hot and the bottom is cooler, them it's working correctly.

Leave the rad cap off overnight to get rid of any air thats left in the system.
Put the rad cap on the drivers seat incase you forget it's off!

[greeny]

i will leave the rad cap off and see what happens over night,i am pleased with the quality and service from iezura the rad included a new cap too,thanks,greeny