crank pulley stuck

[Redd]

hi guys. im changing the timing belt. i spent the afternoon fashioning a lever to get the crank bolt off, and i finally manged that, but the pulley wont budge.

i gave it a few taps of a hammer, wiggled it for ages, but nothings happening.
am i fighting corrosion here or is there another bolt?

i knows theres an indent on the crank bar that mates with the pulley, tried working with that, but to no avail.

help appreciated!

[BUSHWHACKER]

It should just pull off. You may have to use a puller if it's never been off before, the type with bolts that screw into the threaded holes in the pulley, not the type that grips the outer part.

p.s. it's the crankshaft not a bar.

[NiftyNev]

Use a proper, good quality harmonic balancer puller, if it is stuck or you risk damaing something if you get too rough with it using hammers etc.

Corrosion on the crank will work like loctite. I know because it took me a day to get mine off last time I did the belt using a breaker bar and a length of gal pipe. Turned out I had the crank and harmonic ballancer too clean when I installed it. Clean with a kitchen scourer and use a little grease on crankshaft when reinstalling and also use new keys.

Nev

ps: Inspect the harmonic balancer before you put it back on. If it's the original I suggest you replace it with a new one anyway.

[Redd]

cheers. welded together a device to remove it. ill try it soon as this hangover clears...

[Redd]

done. took the waterpump out and it flooded the garage floor... so now im looking at this





ive never done this before and i have a few questions, i hope ye dont mind.

when i take the belt off will the wheels turn freely?

in the pic directly above what is the metal bit jutting out to the right of the tensioner, with the rubber on the end of it?

is there a clever way to take the old gasket off the waterpump, its caked on there, and should i use sealant as well as the gasket when attaching the new waterpump?

kind regards,
Redd .

[hellmett]

re

Yes, you will be able to turn the wheels!

I think the 'metal bit jutting out with the rubber on it' is to 'locate' the plastic cover that covers the timing belt etc. I don't think it does anything more important although this is my opinion.

You will have to find a way to 'clean' the crap off the water pump housing as best you can as it needs to be nice and clean smooth metal, I used a washing up scourer (the plastic kind) some cleaning agent (I think it was carb/choke cleaner!!) and some elbow grease.

There may be an easier way!

I just used the seal that came with the pump, so long as the housing is clean then it will be fine.

You may want to use gasket sealant, I didn't see the need.

My simple advice to you is replace anything and everything that you can when you are 'in there'!

I had mine dismantled 4 times (yes 4!) because I didn't replace 'this' or 'that' when I had it apart.

The last one really annoyed me because the crank seal went and the Surf was leaking oil so I had to rip it all out again just because I put a 'cheaper' one in when I had it apart the 3rd time.

If you can afford it do:

Cambelt (TOYOTA one NOT Cheaper alternative)
Tensioner
Water pump
Idler Sprocket (important)
Cam Seal (TOYOTA one NOT Cheaper alternative)
Crank seal (TOYOTA one NOT Cheaper alternative)
Woodruff Key
Harmonic balancer and crank bolt (if you can)
Drive belts

(hope that's it? basically replace everything that you can afford to)

As Nev said, when you put the harmonic balancer back on lube it, copper grease will work wonders if you ever have to remove it again!

In fact, I used copper grease on most of the bolts/nuts etc. except the ones 'inside' the timing belt cover.

I'm sure some of the more experienced Surf owners on here will concur!

Gary

[Redd]

Cheers Gary thanks for taking the time. i dont know what the harmonic balancer is? if its the crank pulley i couldnt see any rubber..

ok, i got a pic here



so
A is at 6 o clock
b is at 12 o clock
C is at 12 o clock (indicated by the key groove)

is that correct?

do i care about D, what is it? also, finally, whats the little spring thing attached to the water pump?

regards, thanks,
Redd .

[NiftyNev]

B is not quite 12 o'clock. Just make sure it's aligned when belt is installed. D is the idler and has no timing mark. Spring is what tensions the belt. A and C are in the correct position. B is inclined to move when installing belt so have the crankshaft C one tooth before before TDC (top dead centre) on the timing marks, install the belt with the tensioner locked in the slack position (to the left as you face it) then release the tensioner bolt and let the spring tension the belt. Turn crankshaft the one tooth to take up the slack in the belt between pump and crank. Finally tighten the tensioner bolt and check timing marks.

Nev

[hellmett]

re

Ok, Replace D, if this goes it can be catastrophic!

There a a few threads on here showing the damage that worn bearings on these will cause if not replaced regulary.

The spring attached to the water pump is part of the tensioner assembly, I REALLY suggest that you buy a cam belt kit which will include a new spring, arm and wheel.

http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/?doc=16&cid=605&vid=1399

DON'T just change the belt!



ALSO, don't force the tensioner wheel against the belt, when you have fitted it, turn the belt about 5 times using a socket on A (gently) to bed it in and let the spring on the tensioner adjust itself against the belt, then and only then tighten the bolt holding the tensioning wheel!

I overtightened my tensioner once and had to take the whole lot apart and buy a new belt, bummer!

Gary

[Redd]

guys cheers. i think i stand a chance of pulling this off now. Gary i aint got those bits, and i need the car, so looks like ill be opening it up again. at least its not as hard the second time.

ive read the crank should only be turned in one diection, is this clockwise or anti-clockwise as i face it?

[NiftyNev]

Clockwise.

Nev

[Redd]

Nev and Gary i wanna say thanks for all your help. its all back together and running. with the other markings dead on, the crank was a degree or two out, but, if i had slipped it a tooth in either direction it woulda been waay out, so i left it.
flushed the rad and the block and refilled with coolant. the amount of crusty white/brown/pink crud, where the upper and lower hoses attach to the block... id hate to see what the inside looks like.

anyways its running like a champ, i was on quite a high last night. i love the internet! theres nothing i cant do with it ...fly maybe...

[NiftyNev]

Looks like you did good job. Sometimes even the "experts" get the timing wrong, so well done.

Nev