2L Pulley Removal

[Wurzel]

Hi everyone
I'm trying to replace a water pump, which means removal of the crankshaft pulley in the process. At this point of the strip down I have now realised it calls for a specialist tool to hold the pulley in place whilst you undo the main bolt. In similar scenario's I have heard of people putting the car in gear and a hand brake on so enabling the bolt to be undone by using the cars weight to act as the holding factor.

I don't think putting the car in gear will work for me as I have an auto box. I'm reluctant to make a tool just to achieve this (I've done it in the past for a Super bike)

Anyone got a trick I can use or knowledge of a UK based tool?

Thanks in advance

Wurzel

[Albannach]

Scroll down to the bottom of this page and you'll see some suggestions. Alternatively, use the search function. You'll find loads of info and ideas.

Welcome to the nut house by the way.

[plumb bob]

I inserted two threaded rods ( can't remember if they were 10 or 12mm) about 2" long into the holes in the front of the pulley, then put a bar through them and wedged it onto the chassis.

Then use a breaker bar to "crack" the pulley bolt.

You then need a "pulley puller" not the ones that have the hooks on, as you may just break chunks off the old pulley without actually removing it.
You need the type of puller that screws into the holes you had th threaded rod in earlier.

It's not technically difficult, but it is hard on the knuckles if you slip.

It took me about 2-3 hours to do the job, and I'm no mechanic.

Hope this helps

[Bluebirdsurfer]

easy

put socket on bolt,use long bar and rest end of it on chassis..just flick the ignition key,this will crack the nut(not literally) did it on my auto and it worked a treat.

[plumb bob]

put socket on bolt,use long bar and rest end of it on chassis..just flick the ignition key,this will crack the nut(not literally) did it on my auto and it worked a treat.

Mine will start with a flick of the igition, which is why I didn't use that technique, some swear by it, I prefer the slower/safer method.

[Wurzel]

Thanks everyone

Firstly Many thanks to the people who gave idea's. I showed my son the one about using a long bar on the nut and turning over the engine. He told me don't do it Dad, I'm not taking you to A&E. Personally I liked the idea and did it. It worked a treat. I then saw the reply about a quick start and realise the dangers but hey ho, it's done now

I'm now cussing that the huge bracket for the air con stops me easily taking the Timing Cover off with ease, hidden bolt. Ah well I'll just have to take it off and have a recharge I suppose. I havent done it yet in case someone knows another trick!!!!

Cheers everyone

The Wurzel

[Tiger]

Firstly Many thanks to the people who gave idea's. I showed my son the one about using a long bar on the nut and turning over the engine. He told me don't do it Dad, I'm not taking you to A&E. Personally I liked the idea and did it. It worked a treat. I then saw the reply about a quick start and realise the dangers but hey ho, it's done now

I'm now cussing that the huge bracket for the air con stops me easily taking the Timing Cover off with ease, hidden bolt. Ah well I'll just have to take it off and have a recharge I suppose. I havent done it yet in case someone knows another trick!!!!

Cheers everyone

The Wurzel

It's a #### but the cover will come off undo the nut on the back of the bracket that holds the roller on it will help a tiny bit, gettin it back ons harder keeping the oil seal on

[BioHazard]

WEST COUNTRY??????? where as if close to a experienced member one may be able to help

[NickW]

It's a #### but the cover will come off undo the nut on the back of the bracket that holds the roller on it will help a tiny bit, gettin it back ons harder keeping the oil seal on

I've just removed my crank pulley on my 2.4TD with a 20" long piece of scrap angle bar (flat might have been better) with 2 holes drilled to match 2 adjacent holes on the pulley, screwed in 2 M8 bolts, and hooked the bar under the left chasis rail. Using a bar with 3/4" drive, 3/4" to 1/2" convertor, and 6 point 1/2" 19mm socket, the crank pulley bolt was soon off.

I then made up a puller with 3 holes, 2 for diagonally opposite M8 bolts and one in the centre for an M12 and it came off easily (last off 5 years ago).

Now stuck trying to get the plastic belt cover off as the nut to the roller has seized on. Going to try cutting the nut off instead of removing the chunky bracket that's connected to the compressor and alternator. All for a leaking fuel pump!!

[BioHazard]

One of the toolmakers at work mde me this pulling tool

[Wurzel]

I bought a universal puller from Machine Mart

Hi
I ended up buying a universal puller from Machine Mart after it was suggested by one of the replies to my original thread. That took the pulley off with ease. Mind you I did unbolt the front two pulleys that feed the air con compressor, so I only had to use it on the final/original two. I then set about taking off the cam belt cover. The swine of a bolt that's hard to get to behind the air con bracket is nigh on impossible to remove even with offset ratchet spanners. The bolt turned out to be seized in place, which I found out when the cover actually shattered in my hand.

The great guys at Roughtrax had another for £59 so that's easily sorted. I have actually removed the compressor now to get to the seized bolt and soaked it in wd40 for an overnight bath. Hopefully I can then unscrew it, fit my water pump and then start the rebuild.

I'm interested about the use of the bar. I will do something similar using the bolts of my harmonic puller to lock the pulley in place whilst I torque it back up again.

Cheers
Wurzel