head off help

[WARRIOR72]

hi guys if youve seen my other posts youll see my heads cracked up , i encountered a few probs so far and need help
i managed to split the gasket on the throttle control sensor on the inlet could i use silicon to replace it or get some gasket paper and make my own? also i cant for the love of god get the bottom pulley off,any clues/hints/suggestions/alcohol greatly recieved

[Chillitt]

if you get the head from stevo, he will supply new gaskets for all that.

[christopoher murphy]

I recently took my bottom pulley off when i did my cambelt change and i managed to borrow a tool from my mate it was made by blue point and if you could imagine a solid peice of steel and a heavy duty hinge on the end with another peice of solid steel and this bit had a half inch drive on the end you then smacked the end with a hammer and it shocked the bolt un done same sort of action of a air gun i suppose but it worked on mine i will try to find out the name of the tool and post tomorrow.

chris.

[biglift]

hi guys if youve seen my other posts youll see my heads cracked up , i encountered a few probs so far and need help
i managed to split the gasket on the throttle control sensor on the inlet could i use silicon to replace it or get some gasket paper and make my own? also i cant for the love of god get the bottom pulley off,any clues/hints/suggestions/alcohol greatly recieved

Hi I went through the same trouble as you a few weeks ago to remove the bottom pully you need a hub puller, as I never had 1 I used a small hammer I screwed 4 m8 bolts into the pully this let me turn it with a screw driver as I hit it from behind on the left side. If you move the alternator to the left as for as it can this will give a little gap to get a small hammer in (1/2lb ball+pain) it's a long job 20min or so but it did come off. As for the gasket on the intake manifold I used some stuff called Gasket Maker it smells and looks like silicon but not sure it is silicon.

Hope this helps and good luck.

P.S. Just remember to line all the Toyota timining marks up spot on and spin the engine over a few times by hand to make sure the timing is spot on before rebuild.

Steve.

[coolsv650]

I got a 3 legged puller kit from hal£ords cost about £16.99.

As for the gasket, side of a cornflake box anyone?

[kevsta]

hehe

As for the gasket, side of a cornflake box anyone?

ah, the good old days...

[TonyN]

Go easy on the 3/2 leg pullers or simular, this a surefire way of ruining the bottem pulley, the outer part that has the belt grooves is rubber mounted to the hub, this is the crank balencer, if you tear the rubber the outer part will slip on the hub and not drive the belts fast enough, which means the water pump won't be spinning fast enough, etc.... Try to use a proper hub puller that bolts to the aux pulley bolt holes in the hub, and pushes down on the crank end.

I've changed no end of these on trucks that have recently had a head done and still overheat, apart from costing £100 for the pulley, its a great way of overheating the engine again and risking your new head.

[Sancho]

I've changed no end of these on trucks that have recently had a head done and still overheat, apart from costing £100 for the pulley, its a great way of overheating the engine again and risking your new head.

Ah, happy memories.

[TonyN]

hehe.

Hey, you helped Chris (Truckarms) out big style today, you're a good guy, thanks.

[plumb bob]

I got a puller from toolmart ( Ithink) about £16 ish, it's the screw in type, I cut two lengths of 8mm threaded rod and screwed them into the holes in the pulley and used a pry bar between them to wedgr it on the chassis, and undid the pulley with a breaker bar.
This method worked very well, and was relatively easy.
Do not use a legged puller as this will damage the pulley, and they cost about £140.00