turbo shagged????

[logey79]

finally got correct filters (cheers sumo for the numbers) and after cleaning out the oil from air inlet and turbo-inlet manifold hose, and putting in oil catcher bottle from the rocker breather to stop this river forming again, i put everything back together. new oil+filter, air filter (fuel filter done with glow plugs and alternator couple months ago) chucked in £20 diesel (whats that 4 litres?) and a bottle of redex for diesels and went for test drive.

started off, loads of grey smoke, like never seen before, hopefully just redex doing its job. done 25 mile trip and noticed following:

for some reason heaters both seem to be giving out some good heat for first time ever, even though i've not touched cooling system. is that good or bad?

oil pressure the same as before.

i also seem to have stopped the rocker leak, but have noticed oil on the drivers inner wing. very noticeable since i cleaned the entire engine bay well enough to notice little drips here and there and this seems to be the only leak.

since i've stopped oil getting into inlet feed i assume my turbo is knackered, and i suspect has been for some time and this oil may have been the cause of alternator packing in before.

can hear the turbo when the green light comes on, but if boot it for too long or to hard the red light comes on and stays on until the speed required is met or you release the accelertor a little.

so, all agreed turbo is f*£%&d.?

am incredibly $$$$ed off with this now, the grinning has most definately been stopped (even though it has taken the pre-heating packing up, the alternator packing up, battery dying completely, wrong parts and smashing rear light and denting bumper on mysterious telegraph poll that jumped into the way of the surf while reversing...) only got the thing in january, and while being the favourite motor i've ever had, in such a small space of time, with very little mileage covered, it has cost a fair bit already.

if i take the turbo-inlet manifold piping off tommorrow and it has oil in it, will this give me a definate on the turbo situation?

[BUSHWHACKER]

If the turbo whistles and theres no obvious rumblings coming from it I would say it's fine and you've knocked a sensor off somewhere or a small vac pipe has come adrift.......see pics

[logey79]

i'll check it all out tomorrow. if the pipe from the turbo to the inlet manifold does have oil in it after all the cleaning today, would that actually suggest it is the turbo leaking/blown?

told you last night i'd need more help this weekend didn't I ?!?

[BUSHWHACKER]

If you've taken the rocker breather off, there may be a slight misting of oil in there, but certainly not puddles.
Check the rubber elbow that connects onto the turbo, make sure it's nice and tight and no leaks. Mine was badly perished and cracking up around the lip.

[logey79]

ok mate, will do, cheers

[jamsironwork]

filter

did you clean out the small filter on the side of the inlet? its on bushwhackers diagram the red hilighted hose fits on to it. my red light was on, took off that filter and blew it through with an airline it had loads of oil in it now back too the green light

[TonyN]

can hear the turbo when the green light comes on, but if boot it for too long or to hard the red light comes on and stays on until the speed required is met or you release the accelertor a little.

so, all agreed turbo is f*£%&d.?

Sounds like its overboosting, which isn't normally a knackered turbo, but the pressure release jammed or broken.

[Vagrant No2]

Sounds like its overboosting, which isn't normally a knackered turbo, but the pressure release jammed or broken.

I agree with you son

[TonyN]

I agree with you son

Thanks Pa.

[logey79]

did you clean out the small filter on the side of the inlet? its on bushwhackers diagram the red hilighted hose fits on to it. my red light was on, took off that filter and blew it through with an airline it had loads of oil in it now back too the green light

know the one you mean, i'll give it a go tommorrow, cheers.

[logey79]

Sounds like its overboosting, which isn't normally a knackered turbo, but the pressure release jammed or broken.

ok, i'll see what i can find about that and give it a look tommorrow, thanks guys

[logey79]

ok, blew a line through the little filter on the inlet manifold and it was clear. fitted a boost guage to the motor and the thing reaches just under 10psi and my red light comes on and the boost holds at 10psi if i keep the accelerator down thus keeping the red light on (i never keep foot down when red light comes on, always release it and the light goes off, just done it to see what happens and if the result could help diagnosis).

all my vacuum lines seem right.

as far as turbo goes there is a little smoke around the exhaust manifold each time the turbo is kicked into play and the oil is still going onto the inside of wing/wheelarch and covering my wires etc, which is worrying 'coz i think this may be what done my alternator in when i got the surf in january.

this boost seems too high does it? i've searched forum found it should be between 5.5-7.5ish but have found others to be boosting as high as 11-12psi with no problems, but should mine be boosting lower 'coz being non-efi 2LT 1st gen?

i've now wd40'd all bolts around the exhaust, heatshield and turbo ready for removal tommorrow, but don't really know what i'm looking for, but hopefully it will all become clear once it is all more accessible.

any pointers would be GIGANTICALLY appreciated as I really want to get this sorted before salisbury next weekend, cheers in advance peeps.

[BUSHWHACKER]

This may help....

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsit...oveinstall.htm

[logey79]

cheers vince, the thing is obviously overboosting coz it aint modded (ie washers packing out the actuator) as far as i can tell, so what and where is the pressure release control thing that prevents over boosting, i know the efi motors engine should automatically stop it overboosting, is there a similar thing on the non-efi?

[Vagrant No2]

The actuator is on the side of the turbo with a rod and vac pipe attached . If the actuator is faulty ie the diaphram is perished , this may give you the overboost as it will not dump the overpressure .The vac line should draw a vac when the red light comes on (if I understand correctly) and pull the actuator arm to relaese pressure . Maybe the vac line is not working due to a fault .If you connect the boost gauge in line (if it has a negative pressure as well as a pressure as some do)to the actuator this may show if it opens the vac or not .