Radiator just threw up !

[SparX]

Just pulled into my drive and noticed the temp gauge had nearly hit the top , got out to hear a loud clunking noise ( as if the coolant was boiling under pressure, looked down my drive and noticed coolant spilled along the drive and a little way down the road.

Where do I start looking for the fault... Don't tell me my head has gone , I can't cope. Engine still runs fine , ( gets hot in about 2 mins ) too hot to check rad at the moment , oil looks fine too. ( oil preassure never faultered )

It will be down the garage tommorow , but I have to order parts for the garage. Hopefully it could jut be a hose gone , couldn't it ?

[rusty]

Just pulled into my drive and noticed the temp gauge had nearly hit the top , got out to hear a loud clunking noise ( as if the coolant was boiling under pressure, looked down my drive and noticed coolant spilled along the drive and a little way down the road.

Where do I start looking for the fault... Don't tell me my head has gone , I can't cope. Engine still runs fine , ( gets hot in about 2 mins ) too hot to check rad at the moment , oil looks fine too. ( oil preassure never faultered )

It will be down the garage tommorow , but I have to order parts for the garage. Hopefully it could jut be a hose gone , couldn't it ?

Check the thermostat make sure it isn't closed if it ain't that start praying......................

[sumo]

Just pulled into my drive and noticed the temp gauge had nearly hit the top , got out to hear a loud clunking noise ( as if the coolant was boiling under pressure, looked down my drive and noticed coolant spilled along the drive and a little way down the road.

Where do I start looking for the fault... Don't tell me my head has gone , I can't cope. Engine still runs fine , ( gets hot in about 2 mins ) too hot to check rad at the moment , oil looks fine too. ( oil preassure never faultered )

It will be down the garage tommorow , but I have to order parts for the garage. Hopefully it could jut be a hose gone , couldn't it ?

Where was the coolant coming from sparx? was it the expansion bottle or somwhere else.
Mine did that (just decided to spew) and it was a knackered rad cap seal that had been rad welded shut and finaly gave up the ghost.I got a new cap did a flush and she has been good as gold ever since.
So dont panic and think it through before you loose your head.
sumo.

[SparX]

It was dark when it happened , but checked the expansion bottle , and when it first did it the bottle was full , then I had to run it for 200 yards around the corner and back again ( boot was full of rubble ) and the bottle was then near empty , tried to loosen the rad cap but it was still under preassure and very hot. then it got too dark to do anything.

I am going to shove a garden hose in it tommorow morning and see if I can spot the leak. Will posr the results when i've done it.

Cheers everyone.

[marky]

expansion bottle has 1/3 water in it never fill to top. after flush ensure front & rear heater control is set to hot, fill slowly as not to trap too much air in it iff problem still exists remove thermpstat if this works thermostat maybe buggered get garage to pressure test cooling system. finally if all ok put ANTIFREEZE in

[SparX]

Right then , filled it with water this morning , and ran it on idle , it was fine, took it around the block , still ok , so took it down to halfrauds to get the cooland and flush etc , got about half way there ( about 5 mins driving ) and the gauge suddenly rocketed to the top , and coolant was dripping from the right hand side of the engine around the passenger side wheel arch. I cant see it coming from any particular place though .

Any ideas ????

[Koi]

Right then , filled it with water this morning , and ran it on idle , it was fine, took it around the block , still ok , so took it down to halfrauds to get the cooland and flush etc , got about half way there ( about 5 mins driving ) and the gauge suddenly rocketed to the top , and coolant was dripping from the right hand side of the engine around the passenger side wheel arch. I cant see it coming from any particular place though .

Any ideas ????

Overflow from expansion bottle is off the top of it and runs to drain in that area.

Let engine totaly cool down, open both heaters and refill system, when full leave cap off and start engine. If it flows/pressures out of cap straight away then it could be stat or head. Maybe take stat out and try this again.
Have you flushed system since you got the surf?, if not flush rad etc feel the rad all over for cold spots may be its blocked.
Had the same symptons on mine, from stone cold started her up and it poured out the cap straight away, was the head i am afraid.
Really need to get the pressure test done.

[SparX]

Cheers Koi,

It didn't flow straight out of the cap , just took it to the local garage , he is looking now , but thinks its the flowing out of the water pump casing. So hopefully , a new waterpump should fix it , just waiting for the phone call to tell me te news ! Fingers crossed.

Typical , I have just spent a week in dorset flying up and down steep hills with no problems at all ( I finally understand the ECT switch !!!!! , excellent little buddy when fully laden getting up 1:4 hills ! )

Will let you no the outcome ASAP. as I may need counselling !!!

[Guest]

Right then , filled it with water this morning , and ran it on idle , it was fine, took it around the block , still ok , so took it down to halfrauds to get the cooland and flush etc , got about half way there ( about 5 mins driving ) and the gauge suddenly rocketed to the top , and coolant was dripping from the right hand side of the engine around the passenger side wheel arch. I cant see it coming from any particular place though .

Any ideas ????

Quick check for whether you have combustion gas in the coolant (ie. head or gasket gone).

Leave the motor till it is really cool (overnight if poss). Start the engine, wait 2 minutes and take the radiator cap off. If it overflows then you have a problem as in two mins you wouldn't have had time to heat up the water so that it expands and puts itself under pressure. any pressure in the system will be combustion gas.

It's not a 100% accurate test - you may still have a head or gasket gone even if it doesn't overflow, however if it does overflow you can pretty much be guaranteed that you have a problem.

Cheers and good luck

(By the way, not wanting to be the prophet of doom, but what you describe is exactly what happened to mine).

[SparX]

Bloody Garage just rang , Its The Head , or Head Gasket . But only does it when driving it , won't do it when idleing . Does that make sense ?

So , I spose i better go and read the threads about where to get a new head from etc. The garage rekond it was a 12 - 15 hour job is this correct .

Is there anyone on here can do it local to bedfordshire ?

Just what I need before Xmas ! I think im gonna cry. !

[andy]

These people seem to be the best , I think that Koi and one or two others have used them .


http://www.ukcylinderheads.co.uk/Diesel%20prices.htm#T

[SparX]

Help Me

Ok just got back from Garage , Can someone tell me if this sounds right. :-

Garage is taking of Rad and sending it to be Pressure tested, if its not correct they will re core it . the garage will then replace it and test it.

Then if it doesn't solve it they are going to change the head.

He said £600 which includes Head , Gaskets , Stretch bolts and Cam belt . then the head will need to be ground into my valves ??? another £180
Then it willl take 12 - 15 hours at £35 pound an hour £420 so looking at £1200 - 1500

Can someone just verify that all sounds good. then i can give him the nod to do it.

Thanks Guys

( 12 months warranty on the head , but only if the rad is checked )

[Guest]

Ok just got back from Garage , Can someone tell me if this sounds right. :-

Garage is taking of Rad and sending it to be Pressure tested, if its not correct they will re core it . the garage will then replace it and test it.

Then if it doesn't solve it they are going to change the head.

He said £600 which includes Head , Gaskets , Stretch bolts and Cam belt . then the head will need to be ground into my valves ??? another £180
Then it willl take 12 - 15 hours at £35 pound an hour £420 so looking at £1200 - 1500

Can someone just verify that all sounds good. then i can give him the nod to do it.

Thanks Guys

( 12 months warranty on the head , but only if the rad is checked )

Thats about the going rate for the head replacement to be done. It took me 14 hours 1st time and Koi and I did his in about 10 hours so 12 - 15 hours doesn't sound so far out.

Cheers

[Ems and Jim]

Sparx,

Who're you taking it to ? (I'm local and know a few oily handed types..... no not that type of oil SUMO!!!!!)

Jim

[Koi]

Ok just got back from Garage , Can someone tell me if this sounds right. :-

Garage is taking of Rad and sending it to be Pressure tested, if its not correct they will re core it . the garage will then replace it and test it.

Then if it doesn't solve it they are going to change the head.

He said £600 which includes Head , Gaskets , Stretch bolts and Cam belt . then the head will need to be ground into my valves ??? another £180
Then it willl take 12 - 15 hours at £35 pound an hour £420 so looking at £1200 - 1500

Can someone just verify that all sounds good. then i can give him the nod to do it.

Thanks Guys

( 12 months warranty on the head , but only if the rad is checked )

Uk cylinder heads do the head for £590+vat, thats all in cams valves lifters ready to bolt on, you just need your plugs, injectors and rear oil seal off the old one other wise its bolt on and go.
They do the bolts gaskets etc as well either genuine toyota or patent ones.
The heads from uk cylinder heads are new genuine toyota ones, just make sure the garage you are using are not using recon heads or the problem will happen again. It was a design fault on the early heads the new ones are redesigned and a recon one isn't so don't waste your cash on a recon head.