Head Gone ???

[Scuddy]

Some advice please as I'm preparing for the worst!

'Bout a week ago my 2.4 manual's temperature suddenely shot into the red whilst idling in traffic, managed to bring her back to normal and trudge home slowly. Quick check under the bonnet revealed a full expansion tank and the fluids all over the engine. However, I had noticed a couple of days earlier that the gauge was taking a long time to come up to temperature and there was little heat coming in throught the matrix after about 10 mins running. So first port of call was to change the thermostat and rad cap.

That seemed to do the trick for a few days until yesterday. Driving for a couple of hours with no problems, no load and no thrashing, as long as I'm movin' the temp gauge is static in the centre. Problem comes as soon as I start to idle after a run, bang ...up goes the gauge and dump goes the water, almost as if the water pump stops and the water in the block just cooks.

Took it into a local mechanic and he ran a pressure test....bad news, reckons not holding pressure and blowing the dreaded white smoke out the back end. But must have scared him off as he bottled takin on the work.

So in preparing for the worst, a few questions:
- How easy are heads to get hold of
- Is it worth buying a recon head or should it be a new one.
- Typically how much have people spent on head replacements (at a garage)
- Anyone got a head for sale???????
- Anyone know a surf friendly garage in the Aberdeen area (long shot that one)

Tryin' to keep smilin'
Scuddy

[marky]

STEVO now does complete BRAND NEW heads at a good price to us members includes all gaskets bolts etc. He will also advise you!

[Koi]

Some advice please as I'm preparing for the worst!

'Bout a week ago my 2.4 manual's temperature suddenely shot into the red whilst idling in traffic, managed to bring her back to normal and trudge home slowly. Quick check under the bonnet revealed a full expansion tank and the fluids all over the engine. However, I had noticed a couple of days earlier that the gauge was taking a long time to come up to temperature and there was little heat coming in throught the matrix after about 10 mins running. So first port of call was to change the thermostat and rad cap.

That seemed to do the trick for a few days until yesterday. Driving for a couple of hours with no problems, no load and no thrashing, as long as I'm movin' the temp gauge is static in the centre. Problem comes as soon as I start to idle after a run, bang ...up goes the gauge and dump goes the water, almost as if the water pump stops and the water in the block just cooks.

Took it into a local mechanic and he ran a pressure test....bad news, reckons not holding pressure and blowing the dreaded white smoke out the back end. But must have scared him off as he bottled takin on the work.

So in preparing for the worst, a few questions:
- How easy are heads to get hold of
- Is it worth buying a recon head or should it be a new one.
- Typically how much have people spent on head replacements (at a garage)
- Anyone got a head for sale???????
- Anyone know a surf friendly garage in the Aberdeen area (long shot that one)

Tryin' to keep smilin'
Scuddy

Hmmmmm not holding pressure, most when they go over pressure????
After replacing the cap etc was heater/s working OK, possible an air lock. Once head has gone it overheats regardless of stationary or moving, if it overheats at stationary i would check fan for correct operation as this is when it should be working when your idling.
Having said this any loss of coolant and overheating will lead to the head cracking regardless of what motor it is.
If it is the head then buy NEW, as Marky said contact Stevo as he is/will be doing a good deal.

[marky]

I'd pm his no but you cant receive PM also you have no email address

[Scuddy]

Thanks Koi/Marky

As you say Koi, I don't understand why she only overheats when idling. As far as I'm aware from my basic Surf mechanical knowledge, the main rad cooling fan is constantly driven by belt off crank?? Seems to be on my '90 2-LT engine anyway?

I'll try any avenue to cure without taking head off. If it's an air lock I seem to remember a thread in here on how to get rid??

In the meantime I'll check with STEVO on a price/advice

Cherrs again
Scuddy

[marky]

If you want his no put up an email address on here

[Scuddy]

try dave.hudson@halliburton.com

I'll pick it in the morning

Ta, Scuddy

[marky]

YOU HAVE email

[marky]

Did You Get It ????

[Koi]

it does, check to see its turning correctly, try a search on here for the fan its been covered in depth as to how it should operate.

[Scuddy]

Did You Get It ????

I'll have to pick it at work in the morning 'cos my home e-mail is crock

[Scuddy]

it does, check to see its turning correctly, try a search on here for the fan its been covered in depth as to how it should operate.

Checked the viscous fan, and cold it turns less than a quarter turn with a good flick, after a good run in the thing is almost in freewheel, 2-3 rotations with a flick!

That's the opposite to what I can gather it should do (and to the Haynes Manual)

Possibly explains the overheating when idling?? Guess a second hand unit from the breakers is called for?? Anyone know if it is possible to overhaul them and recharge the silicon oil??

Cheers
Scuddy

[andycook]

Hi Scuddy

havent seen you around on the Roads in Aberdeen yet, i drive a silver/grey N-reg 2nd gen 4runner.
I recently overhauled the viscous fan, after similar problems. But ended up with the fan on all the time (i.e. could hear it roaring above 2000rpm all time EVEN with rad stone cold) through too much fluid in the clutch. it reduced pulling power of the vehicle and mpg got worse. I think i put about 130ml of fluid in, people say it should be 50ml
I took some out, and then again this last weekend, now it isnt on all the time, and still doesnt freewheel as bad as it originally did when engine warmed up. so it can be fiddly to get the correct amount of fluid)
Thing is, the fan should pull much air at normal operating temp, its only when the engine gets too hot, and then rad too hot, that the fan clutch is needed to engage. - and it does this by the metal coil on front of fan clutch getting hot, opening some 'ports' in fan and allowing the silicon fluid to circulate.
I dont know any Surf freindly garages in Aberdeenshire, if you find any let me know

By the way, i would for your friendly rival company - baker atlas!, a geologist there.

[Scuddy]

Hi Scuddy

havent seen you around on the Roads in Aberdeen yet, i drive a silver/grey N-reg 2nd gen 4runner.
I recently overhauled the viscous fan, after similar problems. But ended up with the fan on all the time (i.e. could hear it roaring above 2000rpm all time EVEN with rad stone cold) through too much fluid in the clutch. it reduced pulling power of the vehicle and mpg got worse. I think i put about 130ml of fluid in, people say it should be 50ml
I took some out, and then again this last weekend, now it isnt on all the time, and still doesnt freewheel as bad as it originally did when engine warmed up. so it can be fiddly to get the correct amount of fluid)
Thing is, the fan should pull much air at normal operating temp, its only when the engine gets too hot, and then rad too hot, that the fan clutch is needed to engage. - and it does this by the metal coil on front of fan clutch getting hot, opening some 'ports' in fan and allowing the silicon fluid to circulate.
I dont know any Surf freindly garages in Aberdeenshire, if you find any let me know

By the way, i would for your friendly rival company - baker atlas!, a geologist there.

Thanks for that Andy

If yer ever around the Ellon way, thats where I hang out and drive up to work at St. Fergus. My surfs a G reg, greeny metallic colour, no fancy wheel arch extensions or bull bars n stuff...old but practical!

Where can you get hold of the silicon fluid, does it have a trade name? Do you fill the fan with it still on the block or does it have to come off?

Cheers
Scuddy

[andycook]

i got the silicon fluid from a model shop i.e. radio controlled car, website, found the link on here. I will send it to you when i find it. But I guess any model shop up this way could have it, e.g. the shop in Inverurie opposite gateway, by the 'Green Grocer'. The model cars use it in limited slip diffs,
50ml is meant to be enough. and 3000 wt the viscosity you need.

You have to remove rad shroud, and take the whole fan off the pulley,
bit fiddly. The most difficult part is removing the x-head screws to split fan clutch to get inside it. you need correct pozi screwdriver. I ended up using an electirc screwdriver. I rounded one screw head, so had to drill and thread extract it..
I also have a link with pictures showing the procedure, so will send that.

i think the main problem that cuased my overheating was a dodgy rad cap, as i discovered the system wasnt pressurizing.
So probably neednt have bothered playing with the fan clutch.