Hello!

[pyemaster]

Thanks for your help everyone, I'll be sure to copy and print out this correct way to refill and bleed the coolant to the garage so they know this time how to do it.

I would do it myself but I'm not confident enough for something so important.

Owen

[shokenore]

...And...IMO sticking the turbo on the 2.4, in an attempt to give it a bit more ooomph has put it under more 'strain'. I agree the 2.4 pick ups used by farmers are reliable, durable vehicles. The same 2.4 is used here in minibuses (hiace type) and they go forever with no servicing.
Your 2.4 turbo Surf is another beast altogether tho'...sorry.

I am curious as to why you seem to hate the 2.4 so much?
It seems a strange attitude to take on a forum dedicated to all Surfs, I can only assume it is your form of humour or you are troll.

[tashtego]

The 2.4 toyota pickup (farmer's) engine (2LT) heads are different casting to the 2.4 turbo Surf heads.(2LT-E)

...And...IMO sticking the turbo on the 2.4, in an attempt to give it a bit more ooomph has put it under more 'strain'. I agree the 2.4 pick ups used by farmers are reliable, durable vehicles. The same 2.4 is used here in minibuses (hiace type) and they go forever with no servicing.
Your 2.4 turbo Surf is another beast altogether tho'...sorry.

[BUSHWHACKER]

So much conflicting info on refilling/bleeding.
Best info I've received.............
Remove inlet pipe to heater(at bulkhead) & fill from there.
Remove outlet pipe from heater(at head)& watch for coolant to appear,refit hoses.
Fit a funnel into rad (3litre) or thermostat housing (2.4) & continue filling.
Leave the funnel in place & start the engine,Keep topping up funnel & watch as air expels.( bubbles of air) Do not allow funnel to empty completely.
when all trapped air gone.switch off engine remove funnel,refit cap.
Road test, recheck when cold. Job done.

Or, with a stone cold engine, park truck facing uphill or jack front end off the ground, set heaters to 'HOT', remove rad cap and leave on driver's seat, top up rad and half fill expansion tank and leave overnight.
Any air bubbles will have found their way out by morning. Replace cap after topping up rad (if necessary), job done.

[BUSHWHACKER]

I'm a Toyota enthusiast. I currently own a '92 Surf, a '93 Hiace (2.8 non-turbo, a truly great engine, but slow and steady, bit of a mobile roadblock!), and '94 Celica.

Past vehicles have included a '75 Hiace and '93 Liteace (Hilux running gear, went to 300,000 miles before the oil pump failed, by far the best vehicle I ever owned...)

I'm also a plant engineer, former aircraft engineer and home mechanic of some years experience. These old engines are good, there are farmers everywhere who swear by them, don't listen to the 2.4 haters, listen to me ok!

The 2.4 toyota pickup (farmer's) engine (2LT) heads are different casting to the 2.4 turbo Surf heads.(2LT-E)

[ToyotaRon]

Above method is belt and braces, love it.

I think you can get away without filling the heater hoses separately as long as they've been flushed separately and are known to be clear/clean. But definitely worth doing in any case.

Incidentally, I don't think many garages will take this level of time and care, do it yourself and know it's done right.

Ron.

[woodwarm]

I'm a Toyota enthusiast. I currently own a '92 Surf, a '93 Hiace (2.8 non-turbo, a truly great engine, but slow and steady, bit of a mobile roadblock!), and '94 Celica.

Past vehicles have included a '75 Hiace and '93 Liteace (Hilux running gear, went to 300,000 miles before the oil pump failed, by far the best vehicle I ever owned...)

I'm also a plant engineer, former aircraft engineer and home mechanic of some years experience. These old engines are good, there are farmers everywhere who swear by them, don't listen to the 2.4 haters, listen to me ok!

Words of wisdom Ron

"2.4 haters"

[woodwarm]

PS, My tip for re-filling the coolant: Slowly does it (heater controls to hot), just trickle it in, and you'll hear the bubbles moving about in there. When you have filled it to the top, run the engine for a short time (cap off), you'll see bubbles form, which should quickly decrease to a white froth, then nothing. Top up (slowly) if it drops down. Cap back on, run around the block, let cool and check again. Top up if req'd. One week later, check and top up if req'd. Stay cool!

So much conflicting info on refilling/bleeding.
Best info I've received.............
Remove inlet pipe to heater(at bulkhead) & fill from there.
Remove outlet pipe from heater(at head)& watch for coolant to appear,refit hoses.
Fit a funnel into rad (3litre) or thermostat housing (2.4) & continue filling.
Leave the funnel in place & start the engine,Keep topping up funnel & watch as air expels.( bubbles of air) Do not allow funnel to empty completely.
when all trapped air gone.switch off engine remove funnel,refit cap.
Road test, recheck when cold. Job done.

[ToyotaRon]

I'm a Toyota enthusiast. I currently own a '92 Surf, a '93 Hiace (2.8 non-turbo, a truly great engine, but slow and steady, bit of a mobile roadblock!), and '94 Celica.

Past vehicles have included a '75 Hiace and '93 Liteace (Hilux running gear, went to 300,000 miles before the oil pump failed, by far the best vehicle I ever owned...)

I'm also a plant engineer, former aircraft engineer and home mechanic of some years experience. These old engines are good, there are farmers everywhere who swear by them, don't listen to the 2.4 haters, listen to me ok!

[tashtego]

Thanks for the definitive answer. If that's the case surely it's a catastrophically bad engine design? I thought head gaskets were in effect there as a fuse to save heads?

I'm willing to spend the money if it will last, however if it IS such a bad design, what's to say after getting a new head it won't just blow again?

Owen

They do,especially if the job of replacing the head is bodged.
They are lovely trucks to drive bur the diesel engines they have been given are not the best. There are non turbo toyota engines, 2.8 and 3.0 L that are much more durable but they were not fitted to the surf.
If you are sticking with surfs just avoid the 2.4s as they are the worst of both worlds: they crack easy AND they are under-powered. Your KZ TE might crack the head too, but at least you have had some fun...
Cheers

[ToyotaRon]

It will only crack the head if it is allowed to overheat. Keep your coolant system in good order and the new head will last forever and a day!

Remember how old some of these engines are now, when's the last time you saw a twenty-odd-year-old Vauxhall/Ford etc... Catastrophic design flaw or maintenance failings and old age? Get it sorted (rad, water pump, good flush, check the fan etc.), and enjoy it for many more years.

My tuppence-worth, good luck with it, Ron.

PS, My tip for re-filling the coolant: Slowly does it (heater controls to hot), just trickle it in, and you'll hear the bubbles moving about in there. When you have filled it to the top, run the engine for a short time (cap off), you'll see bubbles form, which should quickly decrease to a white froth, then nothing. Top up (slowly) if it drops down. Cap back on, run around the block, let cool and check again. Top up if req'd. One week later, check and top up if req'd. Stay cool!

[pyemaster]

Thanks for the definitive answer. If that's the case surely it's a catastrophically bad engine design? I thought head gaskets were in effect there as a fuse to save heads?

I'm willing to spend the money if it will last, however if it IS such a bad design, what's to say after getting a new head it won't just blow again?

Owen

[BUSHWHACKER]

Just you understand......

2.4 and 3.0 diesel Surfs never blow head gaskets, it's always the heads that crack!

You can bleed the cooling system for forever and a day, pour all kinds of crap into the radiator and keep shovelling cash into mechanic's hands in the hope that they will give a 'correct'/cheap diagnosis, but if there's white smoke coming from the tailpipe on a hot engine then the head is phuqed.

All clear now?

[pyemaster]

By the sounds of things that's what's happened. Will look into what a sniffer test is.

Is there a handy guide of how to properly bleed the system on a Surf? I'd like to give him a copy for when he bleeds it next - it sounds like his not knowing could have cost me a grand.

Owen

[Koi]

Ask the bloke in the garage how he exactly filled and bled the system, I bet he never did it correctly.
So many in the past have had similar issues after mechanics drain and refill the system via the expansion bottle just like you would on a normal car. Its different on Surf and they can be a pig at times to bleed properly.