fan controller

[BAV1]

Hi guys

I'm going to be doing the viscous fan oil mod and also replacing the radiator fan with a universal 14" fan but after having it connected to some sort of automatic controller switch something like this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Capillary-...item2ec84fbdb0

has anyone done this and can anyone offer any advice on the best way to do it ie capillary or bolt in sensor etc only looking at spending £20-£30 for the controller

thanks in advance guys

[Sancho]

Can I ask why, when you already have both the fan and the switch?

[BAV1]

hi mate viscous fan isnt working to good so thats why im doing the oil mod and thought it would be a good idea to upgrade the electric fan at the same time

i currently have the automatic relay removed and wired directly to a switch and have lost the relay so want to add a control unit to give me more control

cheers Jon

[POPEYE]

Hi Bav, right! i did several mods on fans etc, so for your purposes assumeing your keeping the viscious fan and just re-oiling it and upgrading the "cut in" fan, what sort of controll do you want over it?
i added another fan (same as the existing one) and rewired things so i could either switch the fans off, or have them cut in via the temp sender on the filler neck or be able to switch them on manually, i will post the diagram of my set up but it shows three fans, (one over the backaxel where there is another rad) so your wiring will be much simpler for one fan,
i used a sender from a Corolla (straight swop thread wise) which cuts in at a slightly lower temp than the surfs stock one
or you could use a thermo switch, i got mine from CPC Farnell, they are cheap and easy to fit anywhere on a water jacket/hose or whereever,

trying to wxplain how the surfs fan works is a bit complicated but basicly when the earth from the sender breaks the fan starts up,
to get proper controll you have to controll the make/break and to get fan "on" override so it continues after the ign is off you need to use a five pin relay to controll the fan relay,
you can see how it works from the diag (hopefully)

[BAV1]

thanks so much Popeye Pretty much on the money

I will indeed just be replacing the viscous fan oil to 10.000cst and removing the existing electric fan with a 14" fan mounted in front of the rad.

this will be wired to a capillary type sender (inserted into one of the rad pipes) and feeds a dial type switch this way i can set the auto on feature to whatever temp i want

in addition to this I'm going to wire a second switch in parallel (located in the cab) to switch the fan on whenever i want which keeps the safety guard of the auto cut in but allows me to turn it on early if i want to

does these sound ok to you mate

may i ask another question as i think you may know the answer

i recently took a 4ft "U" shaped pipe with fins out of my hot water tank it was used a heat exchange to heat the water in the cylinder thinking of adding this into the AFT cooling circuit probably by strapping it along a side rail or something do you think this would help cool the ATF and can you see any issues with this

also do me a favor mate and send me some pics of your truck especially mods if you have any handy

cheers again

[Karma Supra]

Im using one of these......

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Revotec-El...item4607c07aa3

Which is an insight into the mentality that has cost me so much for my V8 swap

Any reason why you don't choose a 16" fan?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16-RADIATO...80338540063%26

[BAV1]

might upgrade to that sender later down the line and thought a 16" fan may have been a bit tight

i assume you haven't had any issues with two fans inline

how easy is it to remove the stock fan
cheers

[Sancho]

OK, I understand now, thanks.

I wouldn't have thought a heat exchanger from a hot water tank would be much good for cooling ATF. It's not designed to work efficiently at those temperatures and is intended to put heat into water, which conducts heat well, not air, which doesn't. You could arguably say that it certainly won't do any harm but be careful about mixing metals and so on - sometimes they corrode each other or react to the coolant.

[Albannach]

I have a Car Builder Solutions capillary thermostat that you can have for £20, I also have a 16" electric fan, it's brand new, but only has 2 of the mounting blocks - £30

[BAV1]

I have a CBS capiliary thermostat that you can have for £20, I also have a 16" electric fan, it's brand new, but only has 2 of the mounting blocks - £30

thanks mate but i already have the bits can i ask where you installed the stat and do you know how easy it is to remove the rad fan or is another dismantle half the truck job

this is how i intend to wire it up

cheers

[Albannach]

thanks mate but i already have the bits can i ask where you installed the stat and do you know how easy it is to remove the rad fan or is another dismantle half the truck job

I didn't install it, that's why I'm selling it.

The front fan needs the grille taken off (4 screws and some clips) the main fan needs the cowl taken off (4 bolts). Both are 10 minute jobs.

[BAV1]

thanks mate

[POPEYE]

Hi mate, not sure if any of my pics would be any use to you but i will post some if you still want,
The main reason i piped coolant to the back of the truck was when i had fitted a second fuel tank for veg oil, i had an exchanger i made fitted inside the tank and the coolant was to help warm up the oil (along with another inline home made exchanger, a second heated fuel filter and an electric water pump to help push the coolant round) when making the return pipework i bought and fitted an alloy rad which i mounted over the back axel chassis, and this was also fitted with a small fan (hence the three fans in my system)
anyway with the lack of used old oil and the increase in price of new veg oil i decided the whole thing was a waste of time, however i left the pipework and rear rad in place and it's still being used,
the pump tho is an old bus item (from when i woked at Salvatore's)and is 24v so at some point i will get round the getting a 12v one, the 12 i aasume is running half speed on 12v but it still moves water ok (ish)

if i was starting again i would prob do what your doing and just have one big fan infront of the rad,
i recently removed the viscious fan and fitted a big electric job but i notice when it cuts in the volt meter gauge (an aftermarket one) drops quite a bit, from around 12= down to 11-, this just happens on this big fan, i can have everything else running and the gauge dosen't drop, i was thinking of refitting the viscious one but aint got round to it
a few pics

[Karma Supra]

Christ Popeye...

Do you have an overall build thread???

You make my OCD look like that of a double shifting meth addicted crack whore!

[BUSHWHACKER]

Christ Popeye...

Do you have an overall build thread???

You make my OCD look like that of a double shifting meth addicted crack whore!

If you've never owned a 2.4, you wouldn't understand.