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Thanks TonyN, apparently it was a trick used when racing old Minis.
I'll get another thermostat in there pronto!
The rest of the cooling setup is nice and shiney, the rad is only a year old and is regularly checked and is nice and clean. The new head is obviously shiney too so it's running at full efficiency (for a 22 year old truck!).
This came up on 206 info last night too. Thought I would repost on someone elses behalf as he is a chemist and knows what he is talking about.
so you are putting more strain on the pump, the coolant will be a lot hotter than normal.
i can't see a single benefit of this move. \
plus i should add this as well, normal concentrated coolant you got from halford or comma are essentially the same stuff.
on the other side, racing car run neat water (with rust inhibitor) as the coolant, no glycol or what so ever because that give the max. cooling effect.
i am a chemist. i deal with these stuff everyday. Unless there is numbers and figure with proper testing to back up their claims otherwise i will treat them as snake oil. And to be fair, even there is proper testing it also depends on many thing to arrive at the conclusion so it all depends on how much damn i have got left. (Have seen far too many fake testing, fake report or what so every)
pure water will cause corrosion for sure if there is ferrous metal.
the reason for using 50/50 mixture is mainly because when winter comes you engine won't break into piece (water freeze, expand and crack the engine). I am pretty sure someone in here crack his engine because he forget to put anti-freeze in there.
water wetter is just glycol ether, surfactant and rust inhibitor. Even redline admit it did very little improvement (less than few% difference) over neat water. and it doesn't have anti-freeze function.
putting anti-freeze in water will decrease the cooling effectiveness for sure; see below:
2nd column is density; 3rd column is thermal conductivity; 4th is heat capacity; 5th is heat of vaporization.
you want the coolant has lower density (lighter per volume), high thermal conductivity (take off heat quicker), high heat capacity (absorb more heat energy from the engine without raising too much temperature) and high heat of vaporization (need a lot of energy to boil)
I sicerely hope that his understanding of "chemistry" is better than his grasp of the English language.........
If thermostats were better with holes in them thats how they would be made. Mabye I should buy loads of 106 and civic thermostats, drill holes in them and sell them as sports thermostats, then when I advertise them on ebay, put them up as " 106 sports thermostat, guatranteed 15+ bhp".
On another note, you could put a larger core rad in or take the front grill off, or even put a backwards 'subaru scoop' on so it can draw hot air out. Some even say removing the rubber strip from around the bonnet helps.
I have very small children so I'll be keeping the aircon for now and, due to funding issues, we had to sell my wife's car so it hasn't reached 'toy' status as yet.
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