EBC Greenstuff pads recommended.

[ROMEROTECH]

It's supposed to go Green < Yellow < Red. Yellow and Red are documented to require warming up before they operate optimally. This is a very rough statement and could mean they work better when warm, or that they are crap when not warm. Green aren't supposed to be warmed up at all. Yellow is middle of the three and Red is for high end.

They go: Green - Red - Yellow - Blue

Reds are usually fine without the need to dab brakes although on the odd occasion in very cold weather i've felt they needed a couple or so dabs to get them working. Yellows aren't really happy till they're pretty warm and are excellent when properly hot. The latest spec BlueStuff (Endurance pads) are meant to be really good from cold, very fade resistant and and long lasting.

The other day i wound the rear brakes up a bit and my brakes felt a bit better but even though i've blead them to death i still get a fair bit of pedal travel and they really don't bite till you press a bit harder. I've thought about braided brake hoses.

Is the long brake pedal travel a trait of the Surf?

I've checked rotors and pads and there's plenty of life left in them. I must get those redstuff fitted just out of curiosity. Thankfully they are really easy and quick to do.

[Karma Supra]

I run Yellow stuff pads on the other half's MR2, no issues with cold brakes, even in the winter, and they survived heavy use on her first nurburgring trip last summer.

A landcruiser rearv axle with disks has got to be goot place to start

[ROMEROTECH]

How big a job is that to do the conversion?

A chap i know that used to be the service manager at my local scooby dealers and has now gone on to bigger and better things with a F1 engine manufacturer, told me that a well sorted drum brake set up can be as good as a disk brake setup.

I don't disbelieve him hence why in an earlier post i asked if anyone made uprated brake shoes for the Surf. I've not found anyone yet and i'm still looking.

[Karma Supra]

Sorry but I'm with you there. I don't believe that a drum can be as good as a disk... for initial bite perhaps, but repeat performance and fade resistance, no. Unless it has some kind of crazy elaborate cooling fins! - Or the tyres have so little grip that not enough energy is transferred to the drum to cause fade

From looking at the part diagrams and part numbers, the Land cruiser rear axle should be pretty much a direct fit, - but you'll need the correct master cylinder. – Someone on this forum has done it.

My only other concern is that the land cruisers have the load balancing weight transfer type device (can anyone verify this?), 3rd gens don't....lean on the brakes hard on the motorway, with the weight transferring to the front axle and more efficient disks at the rear with no load balancing could have pretty undesired effects.

I’m not sure how well the ABS works if the rear locks first?

[Wolfracer]

Of course,

http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/showthrea...highlight=pads

However looking back, the .pdf from EBC is no longer available via that link and I couldn't find where it has been moved to. I looked back through my invoice and found the part number. Here that is:

http://www.camskill.co.uk/m31b0s3100...es_Brake_Pads_

Ta,
Got 'em ordered, as my nearside front is a little worn on the inside...

[dieselboy]

I didn't know it went green - red - yellow. Why?

Regarding pads, get the SUV ones whatever colour.

Regarding LSV, my 2nd gen has it as should ANY vehicle although some dont. Undesired effects of not having it would be rear brakes locking up prematurely and causing a spin similar to a handbrake turn. Not good on any road. On a truck this size I would leave the drum brakes and keep them looked after. Can't imagine the necessity for rear discs unless the truck was lowered to prevent weight shifting to the front and a lot of high speed driving was done? OR you ran stupidly large tyres that made the drums ineffective.

[ROMEROTECH]

Car applications:

GreenStuff - Small to medium sized street cars below 200bhp

RedStuff - Any car over 200bhp that mostly used on the street and sees the odd trackday.

YellowStuff - More track focused pads that aren't recommended for street use due to the fact their cold bite isn't as good as GreenStuff or RedStuff and they need to be warmed up before they start to come into their own.

BlueStuff (The latest and likely to overtake YellowStuff pads some day) - Endurance pads with exceptional cold bite, better than YellowStuff. Reviewed lots and well liked. Used in endurance car racing where cars have to go on for 3-5hr non-stop stints but good for street car use.

They also do BlueStuff for large performance SUV's and trucks.

Hence the order i typed them in earlier.

[Wolfracer]

Ta,
Got 'em ordered, as my nearside front is a little worn on the inside...

and fitted today, total job from getting the trolley jack out, to putting it away, including drinking a cup of tea was less than 1.5 hours! Easiest job i've done on the surf yet!
Mind you all my pistons went back in easy peasey....

So, went for a bedding in drive and ended up with smelly smoke coming out out of each caliper! Reading up on this, it seems this is quite normal....

Letting them cool down and will have another drive later, but first impressions are very good.

[dieselboy]

I can't say if that happened to mine as I never bedded them in, the bloke who fitted them done all that for me. He said there was some process he goes through but I think I glazed over.

[BUSHWHACKER]

Why do you all need to drive faster than the original brake pads were designed for?

[dieselboy]

Why do you all need to drive faster than the original brake pads were designed for?

I certainly don't. In fact, that is actually impossible with my Surf given the modifications done. On the other side of the coin, I have bigger wheels which have more torque on the brake system. I also have little faith in the standard brake pads after sensing fade and a general poor feel after braking controlled and quickly. I've given numerous examples where this simple upgrade gives improvements. At very least I have the peace of mind.

[yoshie]

I can't say if that happened to mine as I never bedded them in, the bloke who fitted them done all that for me. He said there was some process he goes through but I think I glazed over.

You were probably to busy gathering the old pads up so you could take them home and bin them, just in case some that very week asked for a part worn set.

After all you never know.


Just to add to the original debate green,red or yellow pads are all inferiour to originals when in the wet muddy stuff.

Ask blackpoolsparks how much he likes his greenstuff pads on the jimny

[dieselboy]

Hey I had these pads in my house for a few weeks now. And only yesterday I said to myself "no one is going to want part worn brake pads. How stupid of me to even keep them. I'm never going to use them." And now I'm in this situation.

[Wolfracer]

Why do you all need to drive faster than the original brake pads were designed for?

Fast?

Surf?

WHAT?

I was only looking for some brakes that'd lock up without me having to push the pedal through the floor and actually use the pedal as friction on the tarmac...

[Wolfracer]

need some part worns?

The offside were only half worn BTW, if someone wants them FOC?