3rd gen T-case compatability

[Dara]

Hey guys

Just wondering is there any other toyota trucks that use the same transfer box as the 3rd gen wit multi move awd?? Lc etc??

an if not wat other transfer box will fit the 3rd gen auto box wit out too much hassle?

thanks
Dara

[si tate]

TonyN is your man to ask, no doubt he will be along shortly.

Total guess but I recon a colarado will fit.

[TonyN]

If you find a 3rd Gen multi mode T/case let me know.

You need to make sure you get the right case, UK colorados don't have the 2wd option, or the electric controls for the 4wd shifting.

Prados seem to the same as Colodaros, (no 2wd, but might be elctronic shifting) from what I've seen. but still no good.

Remember some 3rd Gens arn't Multi-mode, and are part time 4wd like a 2nd Gen (but don't use the same parts)

[si tate]

I knew I would be wrong.

[Dara]

If you find a 3rd Gen multi mode T/case let me know.

You need to make sure you get the right case, UK colorados don't have the 2wd option, or the electric controls for the 4wd shifting.

Prados seem to the same as Colodaros, (no 2wd, but might be elctronic shifting) from what I've seen. but still no good.

Remember some 3rd Gens arn't Multi-mode, and are part time 4wd like a 2nd Gen (but don't use the same parts)

i knew some 3rd gens didn have the multi mode....could a transfer case off one them fit my auto box tho??
not too bothered about keepin the multi mode awd

my prob is i dont seem to get diff lock but its def in 4wd but wen i try change to 2wd after about a min or so i loose all drive an get a clunk that rocks the whole truck if its in D 2 L or R an still have no drive after but once i press the button to put it back into 4wd i have drive an it goes fine an drives fine...it goes into H4L an L4L fine but dont have diff lock at all
and the ADD is workin as it should so its def a transfer box prob

[si tate]

Silly question but have you checked fluid level?

[TonyN]

I have 2 cases here that are locked in diff lock. Lol. A part time box may fit, but check prop shaft lengths in case it's shorter/longer. Biggest problem I can see is the electrics, the loom, switches and ecu will be different and may not talk to the ADD and you'll not have the lights on the dash working.
To be honest, part time 3rd gens are quite rare, you'll probably have an easier job getting an other multiple mode box.
Your problem sounds like the solenoid isn't travelling the full length of it travel and not selecting properly or one of the position switches had packed up.

[Dara]

I have 2 cases here that are locked in diff lock. Lol. A part time box may fit, but check prop shaft lengths in case it's shorter/longer. Biggest problem I can see is the electrics, the loom, switches and ecu will be different and may not talk to the ADD and you'll not have the lights on the dash working.
To be honest, part time 3rd gens are quite rare, you'll probably have an easier job getting an other multiple mode box.
Your problem sounds like the solenoid isn't travelling the full length of it travel and not selecting properly or one of the position switches had packed up.

would the solenoid or position switch stop it from lockin the center diff tho??
i know both could stop it from engaging an disengaging 4wd wen the buttons pressed...was thinkin it was the solenoind but dont really wana go messin wit that after readin that they're a pain in the behind to setup again if ya dont put the gear wit the contact points in rite

[Dara]

Silly question but have you checked fluid level?

yup only changed the oil not long ago an it was fine...been like that since i got it but never really bothered lookin too much in to it cos the truck drives fine but its jus one those things thats started to bug me lately that its not workin rite

[TonyN]

would the solenoid or position switch stop it from lockin the center diff tho??
i know both could stop it from engaging an disengaging 4wd wen the buttons pressed...was thinkin it was the solenoind but dont really wana go messin wit that after readin that they're a pain in the behind to setup again if ya dont put the gear wit the contact points in rite

You could take the tiny little cover off where the gear wheel is, and watch it while some on goes through the gears and make sure its moving all the way in and out.

The bar it moves should be all the way out for 2wd, middle for AWD, and all the way in for 4wd.

The two limit switches on the top of this bit are normal candidates for flashing light issues. You can get them out quite easily and check thery are switching with a continuity tester.

Otherwise it could the solenoid cover and the contacts dirty, especially if the switches looks rusty, but like you said it you take the whole solenoid apart its a real biatch to get timed again.

[Dara]

You could take the tiny little cover off where the gear wheel is, and watch it while some on goes through the gears and make sure its moving all the way in and out.

The bar it moves should be all the way out for 2wd, middle for AWD, and all the way in for 4wd.

The two limit switches on the top of this bit are normal candidates for flashing light issues. You can get them out quite easily and check thery are switching with a continuity tester.

Otherwise it could the solenoid cover and the contacts dirty, especially if the switches looks rusty, but like you said it you take the whole solenoid apart its a real biatch to get timed again.

would you need the truck runnin wen the covers off to check it or jus ignition on and go through the gears???
anythin i should be weary of wile takin the cover off like the gear poppin out on me??

i have the flashing light too but it goes completely for like 2 or 3 secs wen i try switch to 2wd

if its dirty an the contacts are rusty im gona have to pull the wheel out to clean it arent i??

i suppose if i mark the wheel wit the casin before i take it out i can always put it back in that way an ill still get drive??

[TonyN]

I normally jack the front of the truck so you can spin the front prop.

Run the motor for a min to charge the vacuum tank, then you can play for a while with just the ignition on.

The bottom gear cover is the last resort, I still havn't managed to this truck back in the right place yet! although I'm starting to think there is still another problem with it thats making the lights flash.

If you take the smaller top cover off, then get someone to work the 4wd you can watch the rod going in and out of the t/case to prove its moving as i posted before.

This truck I have here is selecting properly, but I can't get the diff lock off, even in AWD. I think something inside the t/case is jammed even though the actuator is moving all the way, but this the second t/case, surely I can't be that unlucky? LOL Whats confusing is the ECU has no actual proof the diff lock is on or off, its just assums it is if the contacts in the disc line up with the gear lever positions. I can get all the 4wd postions, and apart from the diff lock being on everything else is correct, so I shouldn't be getting the flashing lights anyway if the contact disc is in the right place.

Like I said, check the position switches, there all just open/closed contacts. There are 2 on the actuator, two in the N/S of the t/case (L4 and AT/P) one on the O/S (selects 4wd when lever pulled back) and one on the front diff for the ADD on.

You really want to leave stripping the actuator to the end, often the gear will come out with the cover, so you will lose the timing.

There was a thread posted awhile back with a measurement for setting the timing, but its not worked for me this time, so can't personally say its correct or not, but worked for them.

[Dara]

I normally jack the front of the truck so you can spin the front prop.

Run the motor for a min to charge the vacuum tank, then you can play for a while with just the ignition on.

The bottom gear cover is the last resort, I still havn't managed to this truck back in the right place yet! although I'm starting to think there is still another problem with it thats making the lights flash.

If you take the smaller top cover off, then get someone to work the 4wd you can watch the rod going in and out of the t/case to prove its moving as i posted before.

This truck I have here is selecting properly, but I can't get the diff lock off, even in AWD. I think something inside the t/case is jammed even though the actuator is moving all the way, but this the second t/case, surely I can't be that unlucky? LOL Whats confusing is the ECU has no actual proof the diff lock is on or off, its just assums it is if the contacts in the disc line up with the gear lever positions. I can get all the 4wd postions, and apart from the diff lock being on everything else is correct, so I shouldn't be getting the flashing lights anyway if the contact disc is in the right place.

Like I said, check the position switches, there all just open/closed contacts. There are 2 on the actuator, two in the N/S of the t/case (L4 and AT/P) one on the O/S (selects 4wd when lever pulled back) and one on the front diff for the ADD on.

You really want to leave stripping the actuator to the end, often the gear will come out with the cover, so you will lose the timing.

There was a thread posted awhile back with a measurement for setting the timing, but its not worked for me this time, so can't personally say its correct or not, but worked for them.

smaller top cover o the actuator??i only remeber seein the 3 bolt one for the gear part itself..even tho its been some wile since iv been under it for a nose around.

ill have to invest in another multi meter to check the sensors my old one fried itself a couple of wks ago...ill check that smaller cover on the actuator first see can i spot anythin unusual if not ill check the sensors then...fingers crossed its only a faulty sensor.

i had seen that thread alrite i think the measurement was 46mm from the center of one of the 3 bolt holes to a certain contact patch on the disc iv i can get away wit out touchin the disc tho it wont be gettin touched haha.