I might have to stop being a tight ar$e and just buy a kit! I'm trying to do everything on the cheap so I can get other parts too (manual hubs etc) If Yoshie has a 2" kit I'll have it, buy some 180mm bolts and cut them down in situ.
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@TonyN - everybody re: Spacers
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Originally posted by Albannach View PostYou can't cut 180mm bolts down to 130mm. Just buy the right ones.
Now has anybody got 2" coil/bj spacers going cheap?
and while we're at it i'm also after 33" tyres on 15x10 steel rims
and a safari snorkel
I don't want much!“Do or do not... there is no try.”
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Originally posted by puddlesurfer View Postok - as long as those size are correct and Yoshie has a spare 2" lift then that's sorted!
Now has anybody got 2" coil/bj spacers going cheap?
and while we're at it i'm also after 33" tyres on 15x10 steel rims
and a safari snorkel
I don't want much!
plus postage of coursePayPal for stickers : scuffsnscrapes@hotmail.com
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Originally posted by animal View Postill have a word on tuesday when my mates open again and let you know how soon he can make them for you.
I'm doing well here, I've possibly got the bj and body lift sorted......
any one got the rest?“Do or do not... there is no try.”
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Originally posted by puddlesurfer View PostI think you are right - what spacers did you get? what were they made of? Who did you get them for and how much?
You buy a "kit" so it comes with bolts and bumper bracket, as the bumper bolts to chassis it then sit's 2" too low after the body lift if you were to bolt it back on. You have to remove it as the corners are secured to the wings!Oh Nana, what's my name?
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Originally posted by puddlesurfer View Postyes please - do i need to drop the diff?
I'm doing well here, I've possibly got the bj and body lift sorted......
any one got the rest?
I had to drop my diff as after the lift, it meant that the drive shaft angles could reach a "self destruct" angle.. I thought I would just try it and see how it went. The first time I used 4wd, the shaft made some very loud knocking noises on the near side. Both CV boots popped off and the big jubilee clip was mangled. When we had a look at it off the car, we found that the teeth of the shaft that goes inside the CV was grided to bits where it had been pulled out, and all of the CV bearings had gone walkies.
After loweing the diff just 1" The angle is so much better, and it was no problem around avalanche.Oh Nana, what's my name?
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Originally posted by puddlesurfer View PostScary! I need to plan this carefully!
BJ, Coil, Diff, Body, ARB, rad drop, bumper drop, exhaust mod what else do i need?
You dont drop the bumper, you lift it with brackets so that it's lifted with the body lift.
If you are going to be fitting the BJ spacers then this will push the hub downwards about 2". By default, the upper wishbone has rubber bump stops to limit downward travel. BJ spacers push the bottom wishbone & hub down about 2" to increase upward travel, however because the hub is sitting that much further down the diff drop was a necessity for me.
I suppose you could do the BJ spacers and not raise the torsion bars. This would mean it would be more unlikely that you will reach the angle limit for the drive shaft. I also adjusted the torsion bars, I probably have about 1/2 to 1/4" of distance between the upper wishbone and the bump stops, so mine sits around the limit during driving.Oh Nana, what's my name?
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I have an LN130 so 2.4d would prefer a 3.0 but I still love my surf!
I want to buy all the spacers and bits I need in advance so that when I do the lift it's straight forward (as much as it can be) I'd hate to get it all apart and then find it doesn't work and need to go back together!“Do or do not... there is no try.”
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