heads up

[TonyN]

thats coz you ordered it and put it in my name so helen would think i was the one that needed a little something to keep my pecker up.

So thats how he managed so much splurge over the wheelarch!

[puddlesurfer]

Reviving this thread, I just read this on Roughtrax's website, I thought perhaps it was pertinant here:

Viscous fan coupling for the 2.4 EFI engine:

A new viscous fan coupling for the 2.4 EFI engine. Previous couplings fitted to Japanese Imports had a different fluid which caused the fan to spin less as their speed limit is approx 50mph, in the UK the couplings were filled with fluid that would cope with our 70mph speed limits. This is information that RoughTrax has obtained from Toyota Tech. Stocked to order, please allow 2-3 days to deliver.

Could be worth replacing the fluid with a higher viscosity?

[Hazzo]

which is what I did last week and several others have been doing for a while, order it from a RC model shop at 3.99 for fifty mill, clean old stuff out, squirt new in and bolt it back together, 2 hours tops. H

[TonyN]

yeah, I usually refill the fans, also advance the preload a little too so it comes in earlier.

[puddlesurfer]

Is there a write up on how to do it? how do you check it in the first place?
Mine goes 'round that's all I know!

[dieselboy]

Interested too.

Are they supposed to be stiff to turn even when cold?

[TonyN]

they are quite stiff when cold and stationary, if you spin it a couple of turns it'll ease off.

when you start the truck, you should hear it whirring for 30secs or so, then it'll quiet down as it starts to slip as the fluid circulates.

you'll struggle to get it hot enough to do much just idling with the bonnet open, you need to give it some stick on the motorway to get it to heat up before the fan drives hard, but it'll soon back off as you slow down. So its hard to tell how well its working (apart from the truck not overheating!! lol)

If you roll up a newspaper, and stuff it in the fan with things are warmed up, you should be able to stop it, but feel it driving against the paper. if its not working properly you can spin it backwards and pull the paper out and it'll drift backwards a little before speeding up, if its good it won't go back far before speeding up.

[puddlesurfer]

The Ruislip Gazette is gonna get it tomorrow....

[dieselboy]

they are quite stiff when cold and stationary, if you spin it a couple of turns it'll ease off.

when you start the truck, you should hear it whirring for 30secs or so, then it'll quiet down as it starts to slip as the fluid circulates.

you'll struggle to get it hot enough to do much just idling with the bonnet open, you need to give it some stick on the motorway to get it to heat up before the fan drives hard, but it'll soon back off as you slow down. So its hard to tell how well its working (apart from the truck not overheating!! lol)

If you roll up a newspaper, and stuff it in the fan with things are warmed up, you should be able to stop it, but feel it driving against the paper. if its not working properly you can spin it backwards and pull the paper out and it'll drift backwards a little before speeding up, if its good it won't go back far before speeding up.

I've noticed that if I get in traffic for a bit then pull away that there is tons of fan noise but after 10 seconds or so it goes quiet again.

[adpsimpson]

which is what I did last week and several others have been doing for a while, order it from a RC model shop at 3.99 for fifty mill, clean old stuff out, squirt new in and bolt it back together, 2 hours tops. H

Hazzo, what exactly did you order, and where do you drain/fill it?

[Hazzo]

ADS

I ordered the 6000 from here:

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.ph...n&ItemID=28539

and followed the strip n rebuild of here, basically you undo the four nuts holding the fan hub to the pully wheel then its an impact driver for the eight screws holding the unit together, keep the rubber o ring seal its not replaceable, it stretches though and is a bit of a pig to put back. Once the two halves are apart clean them out with petrol, you can tell when the old stuff is completely out as the petrol stops feeling oily and sticky, dry it out with a heat gun or hair drier, not too close though, then squirt in 4/5 of the bottle as it takes nearer 40mil than 50. stick it back together and bolt it back to the pulley.

TIP: The o ring will be distorted, I didn't try to ease it back with blades as some others have done but lay it in its groove and work slowly to the loop slightly compressing the rubber onto itself till it simply lays in the groove then stick the lid on, and, if its like mine, ease the whole thing proud of the bench you work on and put the screws back working round the fan, once you have them reasonably tight, flip it over and tighten properly, I refrained from impacting it back together but did it up as tight as I could. H

[Wolfracer]

Had my coolant/water boil again the other day. (New head went in about 1000km ago...) Let it cool and then started the engine, no foaming and no gases (wispy smoke) in the coolant in rad. Also no white smoke or lumpy start. So have bought new Stat, Rad Cap and K Something (Rad Weld) to pop in when i''ve done the thermostat, flushed and added new coolant.
The new cap is a lot tighter than the old one and held pressure all day - I opened it before i left work and got a satisfactory hiss. So I reckon I'm all good to go.
So my changes to guarantee things are,
New Rad Cap, Stat, Flush, Coolant, look at moving lights/no. plate. and longer term bonnet vents near rear, AT Oil cooler and top mounted intercooler with ram air vent. might also look at ram air ideas for the air intake. (maybe room for an OTRCAI?)

Confused about the EGR valve. Will it make the engine run hotter, because of better combustion? If that is the case, better combustion should mean less use of the go pedal, conseqently lower temps.....AAARRGGGH!

[BUSHWHACKER]

I wouldn't put any kind of sealer in the rad if I were you!

[Wolfracer]

I wouldn't put any kind of sealer in the rad if I were you!

OH! Why?
It said on the poster protects and seals cracks in heads, blocks, rads etc. PERMANENTLY.
Is it detrimental then and in what way?

[dieselboy]

Had my coolant/water boil again the other day. (New head went in about 1000km ago...) Let it cool and then started the engine, no foaming and no gases (wispy smoke) in the coolant in rad. Also no white smoke or lumpy start. So have bought new Stat, Rad Cap and K Something (Rad Weld) to pop in when i''ve done the thermostat, flushed and added new coolant.
The new cap is a lot tighter than the old one and held pressure all day - I opened it before i left work and got a satisfactory hiss. So I reckon I'm all good to go.
So my changes to guarantee things are,
New Rad Cap, Stat, Flush, Coolant, look at moving lights/no. plate. and longer term bonnet vents near rear, AT Oil cooler and top mounted intercooler with ram air vent. might also look at ram air ideas for the air intake. (maybe room for an OTRCAI?)

Confused about the EGR valve. Will it make the engine run hotter, because of better combustion? If that is the case, better combustion should mean less use of the go pedal, conseqently lower temps.....AAARRGGGH!

I had this happen to me. The garage didnt burp the system when they refitted the head. The head wasnt even removed due to head or gasket failure. It got hot as there was an air lock, when I understood what was happening, I spent a good 2 hours burping the system. Engine running, and watching bubbles appear from the filler (on the 2.4) and topping up - no stat in.
Does your heaters get hot? When I checked my rear one was but my front wasnt at all! After burping I never had any issues at all.