EGR, Rear heater, T.O. cooler

[Hazzo]

Hi again Folks,

Right, got my egr blank plates ready, got an oil cooler flushed out/ready (for tranny), from the scrappy, have a screw valve T piece (copper) for aiding with bleeding air locks to put on and I'm busy thinking about bypassing the rear heater with copper piping while I'm at it even though its clean/flushed as I'm worried about the pipework. I was going to ditch the air con but prefer to keep it and was thinking about another fan (switchable) for the rad which is like new. I'll also be fitting an after market temp guage before I fire this truck up.

New head should be coming in the week as I suffer from poverty.

Anything else you boys can think of for protecting the new head from heat problems would be much appreciated, I'm hoping fitting will be the reverse of removal with egr pipes/manifolds back on the head, assembled indoors, anyone whose done this feel welcome to input info, Ti A, Hazzo

[Hazzo]

30 views n no thoughts, must be a bad night, all you lot on the pi55 then. H

[KERRSURF]

Tonight I blanked off the rear heater as I discovered the steel pipes that run underneath were corroded and were leaking a fine mist. I just took off the rubber pipes and blanked the ends with 8mm bolts, hermetite and jubilee clips.

[KERRSURF]

I fitted egr blanking plates when I fitted new head recently, it did away with the whole egr valve and pipe completely.

Remember to fit a new idler and tensioner with new timing belt, no point in scrimping with a new head that could get wrecked and always turn the engine a couple of times by hand to check everything is clear (leave injectors out to make it easier to turn) before cranking on the key.

Make sure your viscous fan is operating correctly as it won't cool rad properly if it's dodgy.

[KERRSURF]

I also used hermetite blue on the alloy water inlet housing to make sure of a good seal.

[Hazzo]

Kerr

thanks, I think the viscous fan coupling is operating as it should, spins cold but only a half-1 turn which I think is what it should do, once the engine is going I'll test it properly, was thinking of locking it up but there's differing opinions on doing that.

Theres a part in the manual about using seal packing on the half moon and backplate of the timing belt case, what do you use for this?

Idler n tensioner were replaced 40k ago so have got a while to go, belts are being renewed as I don't like re-using T belt and the others haven't been done, by me at any rate.

I'll take the rear heater out with new pipework rather than block it off as I have bought pipe along with the T piece and took out the one on the block to get a socket on the ex manifold coupling.

There's a small rubber vac pipe on a steel pipe under the intake manifold which seemed to be holding the head as I lifted it off, I pushed this off the steel pipe but with the head removed it looks as though it just goes back and shouldn't connect to the head anyway, is this the case? can't see anywhere on the head it could fit to. TiA, Hazzo

Thermostat is new so OK there.

[KERRSURF]

Halfmoon alloy piece gets a smear of hermetite, it's an expansion seal but not under any pressure at the back of cam.

The rubber pipe under inlet manifold could be the fuel leakback pipe from injectors to pump. It needs to go back on.

[KERRSURF]

Check the idler and pulley for wear. If the idler can be moved with your finger I would discard it, these things are meant to be very solid.

[Hazzo]

[QUOTE=KERRSURF;641966]Halfmoon alloy piece gets a smear of hermetite, it's an expansion seal but not under any pressure at the back of cam.

The rubber pipe under inlet manifold could be the fuel leakback pipe from injectors to pump. It needs to go back on.[/QUOTE

Cheers Kerr

hermatite OK

Its not the leakback pipe its a pipe attached to a steel pipe attaches between pot4 and three running along the block, the steel pipe actually looks like it gets in the way of putting the head back on.

Both tensioner and idler/pully are like brand new. H