Bl00dy track rod ends

[POPEYE]

Just replaced the discs and in the process of sorting this DIY alignment, the BJ spacers certainly pulled the camber out of shape and i didn't realise it'd pulled the toe-in out a mile too, (no wonder i've trashed a pair of BFG's) so i thought best bet is to remove both track rod ends in order to set the camber & castor first, then the toe-in after, didn't have a proper size seperator (mine was too small) and after a good laraping with a FBH it still wouldn't budge, so i took the arm off from the back of the brake plate fixing and unscrewed the whole thing and bashed it loose across the vise, even try'd heat, tight as ar$eoles, looks like i've motha'd the track end and will prob have to motha the other so new ends from roughtrax more feckin expence, just spent £170.50 for two maxxis 33" buckshot mudders

[lord_flashart]

Nightmare, I've just had a similar problem this morning just doing the steering damper and that's only one tricky ball joint. No ball joint seperator so after a hammer, then a bigger hammer and some skinned knuckles I went to a friend's place and we used a blow torch and a wedge.

Only took about 2 hours to change it!

It must have taken you ages to get it all apart?!


Thanks,


Ray.

[POPEYE]

I spent the morning hammering this bugga, gas torch, jack under it and belted it from above, wouldn't budge, when i finally got the whole controll arm and rod end across the vise it only took one blow and it popped out!!! i still have the other side to go tomorrow

[TonyN]

To much paint....

I'd go easy on heat near any important bit of metal, especially on forged or cast parts, always last, last resort..

[surrey-surfer]

Yeah they rust over pretty good in you do a lot of off roading. Pain in the arse.
If you managed to get it off then you should just only need a new tube and not a whole new rod. Hopefully the thread bolt will clean up.

[lord_flashart]

To much paint....

I'd go easy on heat near any important bit of metal, especially on forged or cast parts, always last, last resort..

Agreed, it was a very controlled, small amount of heat so I'm sure it's fine.


Thanks,

Ray.

[POPEYE]

Same here, only hotish, not glowing
the adjuster sleeve came undone ok, it was the actual track rod end with the castle nut and split pin, the nuts knackered as is the end of the thread, easier to replace than try to save it and i might as well replace both ends

[Surfer Ross]

I wouldn't worry too much about the camber, a bit of negative camber is definitely a good thing. The truck is heavy enough to put the full tread width of the tyre on the road anyway. If its eating the insides of the tyres, its because of the toe out, nothing to do with camber unless its severely out.

[surrey-surfer]

easier to replace than try to save it and i might as well replace both ends

any excuse to paint it ay mate? lol

[POPEYE]

Yes too much paint but i'm repainting the bits as i go

Ross! the camber was loads out (positive) so the wheels were visibaly "knock-knee'd" plus the toe-in was out as well, anyway i'll sort the bugger out, aggree a bit of neg or pos camber will be fine, but knackering a reasonably good pair of BFGs' muds was to much for me, my own fault, i've had all soddin year to sort it out, but couldn't find any info till lately, an exellent writ-up on Yotatec is gonna help,got the other track end off this morn no problem, just removed the arm and the adj sleeve and did it on the vise again,
i'll add some pic and a description when i've done, you'll all prob laugh your nuts off when you see the wooden contraptions i've made to help me align everything!! still if it works wtf!

[Surfer Ross]

You're right enough there mate. Positive camber is no good at all. Good luck with your alignment, sounds like you have it covered.