10-40W or 20-50W engine oil

[jaky cakes]

Just a quickie............
anybody using 20-50W motor oil in a 3.0td instead of 10-40W
I've done a bit research on the net - and all concur with my initial thoughts of 20-50 being a "summer" oil or for use in high miles /worn bearings engines.
just thought with a turbo diesel engine running hotter than petrol engines - this oil may be a better choice............and more importantly is only 4.99p for 5 litres as oppossed to 10.99p for 10-40W - same make.
any thoughts???

[skinflint]

oil

HI

i was running 10-40 semi syntec oil in my 30td with 170k on the clock but got so feed up with the clatter i removed it and put in 20/50 normal oil(hailfords) i now get better oil pressure and it is a lot quiter!! the outher thing i done was get a magnitic sump plug to keep the oil free from bits !!

Dom

[stormforce]

i think i will try this oil in mine when i do a service in the next couple of weeks as i got top end clatter which gets on my nerves

[jaky cakes]

saw the 20-50 at morrisons today when i got the 10-40w.
I usually get a big drum (25litres) of cheveron 10-40 from costco (about £25ish) - but haven't been for a while and had ran out. So off to morrisons forecourt to get some more oil, and saw this 20-50 for 4.99p. got me thinking.
I've heard that some supermarket branded oils are actually reclaimed/recycled old engine oils - if it was - would it say so on bottle - and would it matter?

[skinflint]

surf top end rattle

I have never bought supermarket own brand oil but it must say on the container ?

Now Before i start i am not a mecanic i am just a petrol head who rebuild's classic cars!!! and i have not taken a 30td to bits yet !!! but i will at some point!!!

The top end rattle/noise on the 30td surf is caused by the design of the engine it's a very old design (very simular to the rover sd1 2600)the noise is caused by the camshaft/valve operation the valves have solid lifters and are shimed to get the correct clearance and the camshaft is as hard as nails but has soft bearings that wear quickley so as the componants wear you get the top end rattle the main culprit are the lifters that wear in there bores and start to rattle it sound's like piston slap for a few seconds when started from cold and the thinner the oil the worse it will sound !

The 1 good thing about the design is it is easy to service the camshaft has bearing caps so it is easy enough to change the bearings the same goes for the lifters and shims it is all replaceable so as long as you can get the components the wear in the lifter bores is ok and your head is in good condition you can fit new lifters, reshim the valve's and replace the camshaft bearings and it should make the top end quiter!.

In theory you could do the work without removing the head as removing the camshaft causes all the valve's to close!!

Dom

P.S. I hate my keyboard it's bad at spelling !!!!