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Water expands as it warms. It will just push coolant out of the cap area using that method, unless there are vast airlocks in there which happen to escape via the open outlet.
on tick over it shouldnt push coolant out atall,unless there is a problem
on tick over it shouldnt push coolant out atall,unless there is a problem
So what are you advising then? Note this snippet from your previous post:
keep goin until normal running temp
You cannot achieve 'normal' running temperature at tickover.
Btw, it will push coolant out at tickover also, after several minutes, even when the system is functioning perfectly. The only time your method is usable is when someone has made a complete cockup of the refilling process and left large amounts of air in the system. If the system has been refilled correctly, you'll push coolant out using your method.
So what are you advising then? Note this snippet from your previous post:
You cannot achieve 'normal' running temperature at tickover.
Btw, it will push coolant out at tickover also, after several minutes, even when the system is functioning perfectly. The only time your method is usable is when someone has made a complete cockup of the refilling process and left large amounts of air in the system. If the system has been refilled correctly, you'll push coolant out using your method.
obviously i have made a huge cock up then and i have massive air lock
Matt is right. If you fill the cooling system and all the air is out, coolant will expand as it's heated, so will push some out. If it doesn't then it's not filled properly and some air,even you you don't think there is any in there, will be escaping.
I also agree with filling the expansion tank a little more than usual to compensate for the air, some of which will still be in the cooling system no matter how well you refill it. The little extra will allow the air to escape and ensure there is enough coolant to replenish the cooling system. The expansion tank has enough capacity to handle the extra along with whatever gets pushed out as the engine warms up.
All the air in the cooling system will not escape untill the engine has gone through a few heating and cooling cycles with the cap on and everything working as it should. If you fill the expansion tank to a specific level and monitor that, you will see this as a slight lowering of the level as this happens.
Nope. Spreading incorrect information and saying it's the correct method is wrong. I couldn't personally care what reasoning you have for saying something, but I do like to make sure any technical information is indeed factual rather than the type of bunkum which has a tendency to propogate as truth. Nothing more.
I would suggest you find less detrimental ways to amuse yourself. Someone could have tried following your 'correct method' and ended up with a coolant system low on coolant.
Nope. Spreading incorrect information and saying it's the correct method is wrong. I couldn't personally care what reasoning you have for saying something, but I do like to make sure any technical information is indeed factual rather than the type of bunkum which has a tendency to propogate. Nothing more.
I would suggest you find less detrimental ways to amuse yourself. Someone could have tried following your 'correct method' and ended up with a coolant system low on coolant.
Ok so i have replaced the hose and all looked went out for a long run the truck has cooled now and there is still a slight leak not even a drip, i think it is coming from the rad just above the bottom hose, it looks a bit corroded. I have nipped up the clip on the hose and will check it again in the morning. Other wise i think i need a new rad. I have read that Roughtrax do the better quality ones is that right?
Ok so i have replaced the hose and all looked went out for a long run the truck has cooled now and there is still a slight leak not even a drip, i think it is coming from the rad just above the bottom hose, it looks a bit corroded. I have nipped up the clip on the hose and will check it again in the morning. Other wise i think i need a new rad. I have read that Roughtrax do the better quality ones is that right?
Can you see a white residue anywhere? Normally, with a coolant leak, you will have a white powdery residue left behind where the coolant is leaking, unless it's spurting out at pressure.
With regards to replacement, unless they have changed suppliers, definitely avoid the Milner rads, judging from previous posts on the subject. Recore would be my route if you have a local rad repair place? It may not even need that. Just a resolder may be all that's required.
Can you see a white residue anywhere? Normally, with a coolant leak, you will have a white powdery residue left behind where the coolant is leaking, unless it's spurting out at pressure.
With regards to replacement, unless they have changed suppliers, definitely avoid the Milner rads, judging from previous posts on the subject. Recore would be my route if you have a local rad repair place? It may not even need that. Just a resolder may be all that's required.
Thanks Matt, no residue to be seen i have nipped up the clip and it seems to be ok (tempting fate here). So i will see what happens.
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