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31 v 33

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  • #16
    If you go with 33 x 10.5 tyres then according to yotatech you will need no lift, just some hammering of seams...

    If you're really worried about the belly clearance look into low profile crossmembers.

    Also think about the re-gearing issues of larger tyres. There's no way I'd fit 33's to my 2.4 - it has enough trouble getting up hills as it is..

    Rob.

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    • #17
      if it costs about £1.200 for a body/sus lift+tyres and wheels to gain 3ins lift thats £400 per inch can i tell trina that its money well spent

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      • #18
        Originally posted by steve s View Post
        if it costs about £1.200 for a body/sus lift+tyres and wheels to gain 3ins lift thats £400 per inch can i tell trina that its money well spent
        £1200???????????
        where u shopping??????????????
        私のホバークラフト は鰻が一杯です。

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        • #19
          ok at least a grand then

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          • #20
            ok a grand then

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            • #21
              £350 for lifts
              & £300 to £600 for wheels and tyres
              私のホバークラフト は鰻が一杯です。

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              • #22
                Originally posted by steve s View Post
                if it costs about £1.200 for a body/sus lift+tyres and wheels to gain 3ins lift thats £400 per inch can i tell trina that its money well spent
                I put it ths way to Susanne, Well sus i need new suspension so al just get the uprated shocks and springs, prob worked out cheaper than new original ones, then it was, i need new tyres so al just get those ones and a might as well get the body lift to suit. worked a treat

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                • #23
                  ok thats 700-900 ish then another 100-120 for manual hubs

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                  • #24
                    lol, a proper 4" suspension lift is £900ish, just for the kit.

                    33's will always be better offroad, they don't drop down smaller holes and grooves like 31's will, meaning you need less effort to get traction of the lip of a hole, than a smaller tyre that is trying to drive up the wall of a hole.

                    I think lift needs to used to make the tyre choice work, rather the lift deciding how good your truck is offroad, its mostly the tyres. Especially as 90% of the offroading in the UK is mud so you're not often getting hung up on rocks, mostly need to keep the tyres pulling you along.
                    4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by TonyN View Post
                      lol, a proper 4" suspension lift is £900ish, just for the kit.
                      .
                      Aye
                      If you do one like lindas truck
                      but they dont do anything for clearance IMO

                      perhaps i shoulda said a 4" UK lift, or poormans lift
                      私のホバークラフト は鰻が一杯です。

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                      • #26
                        There's clearly a preference thing going on wrt clearance. Some folks say it's all about the diff heights. Others worry about the transfer box getting snagged. Others put the emphasis on arrival / departure angles. Nobody is right, nobody is wrong...

                        It's all about personal opinions. My opinion is that 'UK' lifts seem to lose a lot of extension and gain lots of compression. IMO leaving an 'unbalanced' suspension set up. I'd rather have as much suspension travel each way. Therefore the proper 'drop kit' would be my choice if only they did a 2" version.

                        The proper kit on the front really shines once you've tried jacking up the front bars and found out you have no droop as the upper arms are sitting on their bump stops. Thats why I backed off my front to normal after 1 week. the quality of ride was terrible. I've bought 1" bj spacers but am thinking of going for a bodylift instead. (with a drivetrain lift)

                        As ever on here, each to their own.

                        Rob.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by blackpoolsparks View Post
                          Aye
                          If you do one like lindas truck
                          but they dont do anything for clearance IMO

                          perhaps i shoulda said a 4" UK lift, or poormans lift
                          They don't, you're right, if anything the crossmember is slightly lower, but they do mean your CV angles, caster, camber and steering rod settings are still completely stock.

                          How many trucks with ball joint spacers, and jacked T/bars have 20,000 miles on their front tyres and still tracking true?

                          Was a big factor as we want to run expensive BFG tyres for long life and nice road manners.
                          4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by wishbone View Post
                            once you've tried jacking up the front bars and found out you have no droop as the upper arms are sitting on their bump stops. Thats why I backed off my front to normal after 1 week. the quality of ride was terrible. Rob.
                            Indeed. The front is absolutely awful with just wound up bars, though hugely better with 1.5" spacers and decent extended shocks.

                            Trouble with LC springs, apart from them (IMO) being to hard for the weight of the surf back end, is they extend the original shocks to their maximum so there is no further extension available. +3" shocks help a lot, but I maintain that LC springs are too firm. It's a cheap way of getting lift, though TBH if I did it again I would go for a longer spring suited to the weight of the surf, and a small spacer.
                            Cutting steps in the roof of the world

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                            • #29
                              mine got 4 inch body lift and wheel spacers with 33inch kumhos on and its higher than a standard landy so im happy

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by TonyN View Post
                                How many trucks with ball joint spacers, and jacked T/bars have 20,000 miles on their front tyres and still tracking true?


                                I've got about 10k miles on my BFGs, no noticeable wear. However, I did have a proper full realignment done on the front after fitting the BJ spacers.
                                Cutting steps in the roof of the world

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