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What offset is (required/could I get away with) to run a 15x10 wheel?
Are spacers required?
You don't often get an option, most 10" wide wheels are normally -50ish mm offset, and are sold with pickup trucks narrower axles in mind, not IFS Surfs. Any less that -30mm with probably have you tyres rubbing on the chassis or wishbones unless you run spacers.
Spacers are not your friends with wide wheels with more than -30mm offset, they just make the rubbing on full lock worse.
4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...
What were apache's? 37mm or thereabouts (IIRC)? He doesn't seem to have issues but I think he's running around 5" overall lift.
I know if you buy from www.offroadmdg.co.uk they will offer 4.5" backspacing whatever that equates to, i guess it's another way of saying the offset, although it could be totally unrelated.
What were apache's? 37mm or thereabouts (IIRC)? He doesn't seem to have issues but I think he's running around 5" overall lift.
I know if you buy from www.offroadmdg.co.uk they will offer 4.5" backspacing whatever that equates to, i guess it's another way of saying the offset, although it could be totally unrelated.
Backspace the from the mounting face to the back of the rim. 4.5" back spacing on a 10" wide rim is 1/2" offset, or 13mm.
Lindas Mickey Thompson's are -52mm, and look great slightly poking from the wheel arch, but they did rub with only 4" of suspension lift, a 1 1/2" Body lift fixed it though. Apaches steels are deffo less, I'd guess at what you said for offset and are probably a better option if you've run out of lift. But are way heavier than the alloys.
4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...
i would say 4" min lift really for 33's.
I got 33x1250x15's on 15x10 rims and i was getting a bit of rubbing.I get a hell of a lot more rubbing while off roading with the articulation tho
Thanks guys I'm hoping to run 33"x 12.5"
with a 2" sus lift but want the body lift to be only 1" Do you think I will need more lift
Was hoping to fit steels not alloys an views
Again thanks in advance
i have a 3" suspension lift,and a 2" inch body lift,and that is fine,with 33.12.5.15's.
any less and i would definitely get some rubbing,although my 33's areon 8" inch rims with a -25mm offset rather than richards 10" inch rims.
i have a 3" suspension lift,and a 2" inch body lift,and that is fine,with 33.12.5.15's.
any less and i would definitely get some rubbing,although my 33's areon 8" inch rims with a -25mm offset rather than richards 10" inch rims.
Again thanks for quick responses Guys. Graham is 12.5" on an 8" rim alright any disadvantage over the 10" option? or is it just a personal choice thing
(as I can get hold of 8" cheap)
So a 2" body and 2" suspension lift would be a good starting point.
Would I require a Radiator drop bracket, Panard rod drop bracket and Diff drop for this height of lift. Does the steering need lengthend on a 2" body lift?
Again thanks for quick responses Guys. Graham is 12.5" on an 8" rim alright any disadvantage over the 10" option? or is it just a personal choice thing
(as I can get hold of 8" cheap)
So a 2" body and 2" suspension lift would be a good starting point.
Would I require a Radiator drop bracket, Panard rod drop bracket and Diff drop for this height of lift. Does the steering need lengthend on a 2" body lift?
i took the 8"inch option cos of cheapness,(and they dont rub).
its probably the minimum size you will get a tyre fitter to fit a 12.5 wide tyre on as well.
i think thechoice of suspension lift jelps imho.i have ball joint spacers on the front,and did not have to crank the torsion bars,with the rears,i had landcruiser springs fitted,which gave a 3" inch lift.ihave an adjustable panhard bar,the drop brackets tend to break.you will either need a diff drop kit(but that defeats the idea of raising the diff),or manual hubs if you dont want to chew up your cv gaiters.i have the manual hubs
on the front,i also removed the arb and this gave me more offroad articulation.
with the body lift you will need to do a few things including,but not limited to,fitting radiator and bumper drop brackets,letting the fuel filler neck loose,letting the handbrake arrangement of the chassis(i had to readjust mine),undoing the steering rod under the dash(its on a spline),and you may have to file the hole in the bulkhead where the steering rod goes through as it sometimes rub.you will also have to cut the transmission tunnel to let your lo4 lever work.
it sounds horrific but meself and nero 279 did mine and if we hadnt stopped for 10 coffees and pizza we would have done it in about 4-5 hours.
there is a link on the site somewhere on how to do it,but you will need it to do the 33 inch tyre thing
but they ALL look good afterwards,and its well worth the hard work
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