Brass bolt

[MattF]

Has anyone any suggestions as to where I may be able to acquire a 18mm 1.5mm thread pitch brass bolt? Only need a couple, so general suppliers, unless they have them in stock, are generally a no go as they can only place a minimum quantity order. Tried the local places and none of them have any. Plus, can anyone advise as to exactly where the oil pressure sensor is situated on the block?


Cheers.

[NiftyNev]

Matt

Are the brass bolts for your filter project. Maybe brass plugs from your local hose/fitting supplier will be easier to find. I assume you want to drill and tap for filter/oil cooler fittings. Ignore me if I'm on the wrong track.

Looks lke you found the oil pressure sensor.

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/v...ic.php?t=12145

Nev

[beaufighter]

Has anyone any suggestions as to where I may be able to acquire a 18mm 1.5mm thread pitch brass bolt? Only need a couple, so general suppliers, unless they have them in stock, are generally a no go as they can only place a minimum quantity order. Tried the local places and none of them have any. Plus, can anyone advise as to exactly where the oil pressure sensor is situated on the block?


Cheers.

Matt, try a company called Essex Fasteners. They are based in Shotgate (Wickford) in Essex. I'm sure they will mail order. Don't have number to hand but if you cannot locate them let me know later and I will sort it out

[MattF]

Matt

Are the brass bolts for your filter project. Maybe brass plugs from your local hose/fitting supplier will be easier to find. I assume you want to drill and tap for filter/oil cooler fittings. Ignore me if I'm on the wrong track.

You are indeed correct. It's the bypass filter project again. Yup, it's the fitting for that extra port on the cooler that I'm having a devil of a time with. Been into the local hydraulic place this aft, and still no joy on the brass plug, but have managed to get a M18 hose tail adaptor. Does this look like it might be usable with that blanked port? I grabbed one just incase, but can't remember offhand if there's enough clearance underneath the cooler for it to fit. 10mm hose tail, but that I can easily rate limit at the filter side. The total length of the fitting is approx' 2-1/4".

Looks lke you found the oil pressure sensor.

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/v...ic.php?t=12145

Nev

Sods law that I find the answer ten minutes after I ask the question.

[The Lovely Boyo]

Hey Matt,

Here's a cheapo oil cooler mod for you

http://cool-collar.com

[MattF]

Just as a completely useless bit of info, it has that nickel type finish. It's not brass as the picture makes it appear.

[MattF]

Hey Matt,

Here's a cheapo oil cooler mod for you

http://cool-collar.com

I think they look quite cute and useless. Wonder where I might get one.

[surfenstein]

Has anyone any suggestions as to where I may be able to acquire a 18mm 1.5mm thread pitch brass bolt? Only need a couple, so general suppliers, unless they have them in stock, are generally a no go as they can only place a minimum quantity order. Tried the local places and none of them have any. Plus, can anyone advise as to exactly where the oil pressure sensor is situated on the block?


Cheers.

matt what diammeter thread you after.i take it the bolts are 18mm long,and the thread pitch is ok,but what size m8,m10,m12 etc

[MattF]

matt what diammeter thread you after.i take it the bolts are 18mm long,and the thread pitch is ok,but what size m8,m10,m12 etc

Bugger. Hadn't realised what I put originally. The bolt is a M18, not an 18mm bolt. Sorry. Depth wise, I think Nev said there's about 10mm max in the housing, but a long brass bolt would be easy enough to shorten. The other possibility would be a brass blanking plug. The blanking plugs I've seen tend to be the UNC/UNF/NPT type threads, though. This hose tail I've got *might* be okay, but I would prefer to be able to drill through a brass bolt and soft solder/braze a pipe in. That's why steel is out, due to the solder/braze bit.

[surfenstein]

i may be able to machine you some up out of a solid brass block if thats any good to you.

[MattF]

i may be able to machine you some up out of a solid brass block if thats any good to you.

Would it ever. That'd be absolutely stonking if you could. This is the one item that's been the thorn in my side with this project. I'll dig the exact info out.

[surfenstein]

[QUOTE=MattF]Would it ever. That'd be absolutely stonking if you could. This is the one item that's been the thorn in my side with this project. I'll dig the exact info out.[/QUOTE
matt let me see if i can get hold of the right pitch die.i dont see it being a prob.but put the info up and ill let you know if i can do it.

[MattF]

matt let me see if i can get hold of the right pitch die.i dont see it being a prob.but put the info up and ill let you know if i can do it.

Cheers. Here's the specifics from the measurements that Nev took from a filter & cooler housing that he has. I've quoted the part from the thread over on the Oz site.

Quote:

M18 X 1.5 The factory plugs may not be suitable for drilling and tapping as they are a bit short on the thickness of metal in the plug head. A brass plug may be better. I have a brass plug but it will need the thread shortened a bit because the thread depth is longer than the thread depth in housing. Thread depth of factory plug is about 8mm brass plug is 12mm.

End quote

The housing pic follows. (Many thanks to Nev once again). The bit where the bolt/plug will be going is the port on the bottom left of the pic, circled in yellow.




Cheers Mark.

[NiftyNev]

Hi Matt

I measured the housing and the max length for the thread will be 10mm. Make sure you use a seal as on the original plug. Without looking I'm not sure if there is room for a hose tail. Will have a look when I get a chance.

Steel can be silver brazed with a simple LPG torch if you use a low temp rod such as SBA245. This is a rod with 45% silver content. A suitable flux is needed. This will produce a very strong joint if the parts are close fitting. If you do this then drill the plug so the pipe is a neat fit. I would avoid butt joints if doing this as the pipe could break away.

Nev

[surfenstein]

ok matt i can screw cut the thread on the lathe.so its no prob.i wont be able to do the hex head so i intend on machining two flats on the top of the plug is this ok,do you need a hole put through the middle if so what diammeter?do you want a shoulder put on the plug?tell you what ill put up a drawing and just tell me if its right or not or if you want anything changed.